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The AutoMeter is perfect, the stock one is SOOOOOOO slow that I don't even look at it when WOT.
I don't have a decent trans governor, so I have to shift the car myself, I've been shifting about 5250 rpm, thats where the car feels like its getting slower. I'd never be able to nail that number with the stock tach, which skips 2-300 revs per refresh...
My stock tach is accurate if I'm not accelerating, within 100 revs or so. :seeya
...tell me a little bit about your wheels? (size, backspacing, etc)
They're custom 3-piece FIKSE FM5's. 17x11 in the rear, 17x9.5 in the front. They were custom-backspaced to fit perfectly under the fenders (sorry-don't remember the specs). Before these, I owned silver-painted GS wheels which stuck out about 1/2" in the rear on each side :( Last week I wanted to get the centers anodyzed black, but Fikse wants $375 per wheel to anodyze (actually replace) the centers. OUCH! Not gonna happen! :cry
...tell me a little bit about your wheels? (size, backspacing, etc)
They're custom 3-piece FIKSE FM5's. 17x11 in the rear, 17x9.5 in the front. They were custom-backspaced to fit perfectly under the fenders (sorry-don't remember the specs). Before these, I owned silver-painted GS wheels which stuck out about 1/2" in the rear on each side :( Last week I wanted to get the centers anodyzed black, but Fikse wants $375 per wheel to anodyze (actually replace) the centers. OUCH! Not gonna happen! :cry
[Modified by ELEVENS, 7:24 PM 11/28/2002]
Thanks!
What got my attention was the fact the rears didn't stick out, and the center section has an aggresive, recessed look.
:confused: How do I tell? For a stock 87 L98 with 700 R4, what RPM should I be at for what speed? I haven't dyno'd my car or anything like that to get a calibrated comparison. Is there another way to figure out what RPM it's really running? ~Juliet
The problem with the digidash is that it only updates something like 12 times a second. Add on top of that that the liquid crystals cannot react that fast and you get interesting results in low gears.
Notice your oil pressure is kind of low under heavy accelaration. Maxing at 40 PSI at 5800 RPM's??? Shouldn't it be at 50 to 60 even under hot conditions?? I know mine is that's why I ask......??.... :confused:
Hi Juliet,
I think most compare the reading with a scanner tool or shift light. If you know your rear-gear ratio and tire size, the rpm can be calculated based upon speed, transmission gear, and a locked up torque converter, assuming your speedo is correct (here we go again!).