Been chasing down a few items in my tune, first was a lot of false KR. I have mostly resolved but still seeing 1-2 degrees. Not sure what else to try, it’s most certainly false knock from the valvetrain.

What I’m taking a closer look at now is the MAF data. This is a heads/cam and bolt on 94. The maximum MAF reading is about 260 g/s and it’s pretty consistent in that reading anywhere above 4K rpm. It pulls pretty good but the top end feels a little flat. Valvetrain is brand new and spec’d for the cam, it’s not floating the valves. My max shift point is 6k and it’s really in the 5-6k that it feels a little lazy. Does 260 g/s sound low on a h/c car?

I cleaned the MAF this morning with electrical contact cleaner. I noticed one of the resistors might look blackened compared to the others. Haven’t logged it with the cleaned MAF yet, wet roads today. I’ve owned the car 15yrs and this is the first MAF cleaning, possibly ever. It has a drop in K&N that is probably around 10 years old and maybe 15k miles, I haven’t cleaned it as it looks just fine still. Pic attached but it was pretty impossible to get a good pic of it, arrow on the one that looks different. No codes. MAF is unmodified. Look normal to you?

 

Symptoms of a bad MAF can include bad short and long term fuel trims. If the fuel trims are above 10%, could be sign of a faulty MAF.

 

260 gm/sec is sufficient airflow for about 300 whp or 352 crank hp, assuming 13:1 AFR, 0.45 bsfc and about a 15% loss. Stock LT1 cars dyno in the 260s, so a 40 whp gain sounds reasonable to me.

 

Thanks, still refining the tune and continuing to find power, mostly in spark advance. I’d be disappointed in 300whp, but in the end it’s more about how it drives/runs, it’ll likely never see a track and hp is just a number. Fueling is off a bit here and there but in the single % digits (as reviewed in EEhack analyzer).

That said, combo should be north of 400 flywheel but I do run short tubes, stock cats and stock mufflers which I believe The first two may be limiting it a good bit, will probably upgrade to long tubes/hi flow cats in the coming winter, but for now I just want to drive and enjoy it. Debating having the injectors professionally cleaned as well and upgrading fuel pump, they are stock original from 94 but seem to hold up still.

 

If you're using the analyzer, make sure that you're not looking at the Speed Density numbers if you're running in MAF mode. Trimalyzer doesn't really have logic built-in to disregard SD numbers when running in MAF mode, so if you try to tune your fueling based on the SD estimates, it won't work out well.

MAF tuning with EEHack/Trimalyzer is kind of clunky at the moment, but may improve in the 5.0 revision. As always, the best way is still to use a wideband O2 sensor, but you can certainly get within the ballpark using the narrowband trims.

Best of luck!