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I am having issues with my 95 Corvette that started soon after I replaced the water pump. The car cold starts without any issue. It seems for the first 5-10 minutes of driving all is running good but then all of a sudden the engine sputters and dies. I can restart it but not easily and it won't idle so I have to keep my foot on the gas at all times or it will die again. If I keep driving and keep my foot in it then it runs rough for a minute or two and then goes back to normal driving like nothing happened. While it's running rough I can see smoke coming out of my exhaust. That too goes away once the car goes back to driving normal again. The check engine light always comes on but then soon goes back off as well. So I did the paperclip trick to pull my codes. Here is what I saw on the display:
1 = H32 H34 H36 H38
4 = H36 H42
9 = --- (no codes)
A = H26
I think I found the codes that seemed to be engine/ignition related.
DTC 36 – Distributor Ignition System (Faulty High Resolution Pulse or Extra Low Resolution Pulse Detected)
DTC 42 – Ignition Control (IC) Circuit (Shorted or Grounded Circuit)
Sound like my opti is going bad?
Possible, but it's weird that they're all historic codes and not current (that's what the H means). And those two at the same time plus the four codes for the CCM (all related to data being interrupted) make me think there's something else going on. The fact that the problem comes and goes makes me think it's not the PCM or CCM. I'd be thinking about a bad ground somewhere.
You might run a search on here for another thread where someone's car was throwing all four of those same CCM codes. It's a vague memory, but I could swear someone else had very similar symptoms in the past year.
That's probably because the check engine light goes out once the car gets past the running rough and goes back to normal. This situation just got even stranger. My low coolant light came on today as I was going to get gas. I looked under the car and I was loosing a lot of coolant. When I popped the hood it looked like the water pump was leaking from somewhere.It could be a bolt came loose or the pump went bad after only a month. So I went back to autozone because the pump came with a lifetime warranty/ They said they will have a new one in tomorrow.
So I said screw it and bought a new opti spark from them which amazingly they had in stock. I also ordered new plugs and wires. So it looks like I'm spending half the day tomorrow removing the airbox, water pump, crank pulley and opti spark. Then I can install the new opti spark and head back to autozone to get my pump, plugs and wires. If I am lucky, I can have the car back together before it gets dark. Otherwise I will finish on Monday.
I sure hope it all works after this. I also hope this opti unit is plug and play. If it requires ignition timing with an oscillator or some crap then I'm screwed.
I sure hope it all works after this. I also hope this opti unit is plug and play. If it requires ignition timing with an oscillator or some crap then I'm screwed.
The opti is indeed plug and play as long as you get the correct one for your year. The only one with any external adjustment is the MSD, and honestly, don't mess with it. The PCM handles all the adjustments on its end.
And yes, the historic codes are because the codes aren't currently being thrown, as in, not at the time of pulling the codes. The whole "C" and "H" thing is a little misleading in that way. That is, if the condition that caused the code is not occurring at the moment the codes are read, it will be listed as "H" even though it may in fact still exist.
Given the coolant leak, seems like a good chance the Opti actually was getting wet and the module was periodically fizzling. It's probably too late now, but a friend of mine (also with a 95) put two different Duralast (Autozone) optis on his LT1 and they were both DOA, confirmed. He finally sent his original to the Optidoc for a rebuild and it's been fine ever since. If you have the time to wait, it may be good to wait until you can get a better replacement than Duralast. I'd say the same for their shitty water pumps, but I don't have good US-made/rebuilt option to suggest to you.
Speaking of that friend, it was him who had the same series of CCM codes as you, not a thread on here (memory's fading fast with age...what were we talking about?). Here's what I emailed him:
Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Hey, this might be good news: the problem may be easier to locate than I was thinking. I was able to “print” the relevant pages out of my factory service manual for all your CCM codes (31-38). If you look at what each code is and then look at the diagram at the top of the page, you’ll see that it’s all related to the four digital circuits on the “F” connector of the CCM (LCD Data, M Clock, Data Clock, and Data Strobe). There are eight codes, two for each signal. If you read the description under the diagram, you’ll see that the two codes for each signal correspond to a bad reading when the CCM first powers up: one code means it saw a high signal when it should have been low, and the other code means it saw a low signal when it should have been high. That’s on one single connector, “F”, going into the CCM, which is what sends data to the LCD display (the same display where your codes were shown).The fact that all the codes are historic tells me it’s intermittent. Also, the fact that your check engine light kept coming on and turning off again makes me think that. So something may just be physically wrong with that connector, or maybe at the other end where those signals plug into the instrument cluster. Or maybe even something in between. Did they mess with anything in the dash at all? Did you try to remove/replace the radio? It’s possible the CCM itself is causing the problem. It’s also possible that the LCD cluster is causing the problem. The CCM is behind the radio in the dash. It’s a bit of a pain to get to, but it can probably be checked by removing the radio, and then someone can carefully check that connector and the wires to/from it. The manual goes in-depth into diagnosing and fixing the issue, but someone is going to need proper diagnostic equipment to do it.
I’d try clearing the codes first and seeing if the CCM codes come back. If they do and the display is actually working when you drive it, you may just be able to ignore it. The good news is that this is a pretty localized problem – all the codes come from one place. I don’t think anyone needs to chase grounds all over the chassis, which is what I was afraid of. Also, none of these CCM codes should result in stranding you. At worst I think the LCD cluster could stop working and the check engine light keeps resetting.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Aug 9, 2020 at 12:41 PM.
Given the coolant leak, seems like a good chance the Opti actually was getting wet and the module was periodically fizzling. It's probably too late now, but a friend of mine (also with a 95) put two different Duralast (Autozone) optis on his LT1 and they were both DOA, confirmed. He finally sent his original to the Optidoc for a rebuild and it's been fine ever since. If you have the time to wait, it may be good to wait until you can get a better replacement than Duralast. I'd say the same for their shitty water pumps, but I don't have good US-made/rebuilt option to suggest to you.
Speaking of that friend, it was him who had the same series of CCM codes as you, not a thread on here (memory's fading fast with age...what were we talking about?). Here's what I emailed him:
It is so funny you said that. I went to Auto zone on Saturday and told them the water pump they sold me only lasted a month. It came with a lifetime warranty which only means you might spend your entire lifetime re-installing water pumps, LOL. At the time I did not know about the bad reputation for Duralast. I asked them about an opti spark and they had the Duralast in stock. So I got that right away and had to come back on Sunday for the replacement water pump and plug wires. Anyway, I spent all day Monday installing the opti, plugs and water pump and even then didn't get it all finished because it took me forever to get the opti seated all the way in. I mean like 3 hours of on and off spinning a little, not flush, pull it back and spin a little, not flush. I actually started to think the duralast unit was manufactured poorly and couldn't be seated in. But then I seated the original back in and carefully pulled it out. I put it next to the new one and spun it to look identical. Then son of a beehive the darn thing seated flush on the first attempt.
Anyway, I got everything finished up this morning and filled it up with new antifreeze. The car started right up with no hesitation. I took it for a long drive and there was no leaks, no codes, no engine sputtering. I drove the car to work tonight and it ran perfectly. So far it's all good but then I did a google search because I was curious if the duralast opti was vented or non-vented. That's when I saw all the bad reviews. People all over the place saying the unit either didn't work at all or only lasted a month or less. Same thing on the water pump. Lots of mixed reviews with some saying it works great and others saying it failed after a few weeks like mine did.
I should have done my research before I bought the parts. But that's a moot point now. The parts are in and working (at least for now). If one or both do fail though then I will just ask for a refund and buy the parts elsewhere.
Well, time will tell. At least you're not getting a code right away, which is what happened to my friend with two consecutive Duralast optis. In his case, the modules were clearly bad from the get-go. Hopefully yours lasts a long time.