LT1 cam selection
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2019
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LT1 cam selection
I've pretty much decided on doing heads cam build on my 95 LT1 manual corvette. Looking for advice on a good cam to go with. I want something with super aggressive chop and good mid and high end power. Id like advice on whether the stock heads and intake can be machined enough to get better airflow or if im better off just buying brand new ones. also can the LT1 stock fuel system handle something like this or am i better upgrading injectors and fuel pump? along with cam selection id like to do rockers, push rods, lifters, valve springs and so on. More or less just looking to hear about good setups that function and make good power reliably. the goal for this car is 400-450 HP, not sure if this will be quite attainable with just a cam but ill try.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
Popular topic. Budget? Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction for cylinder head porting and cam selection. You will be in the 2k.range plus tuning. With the " new top end" you will likely need long tube headers thats another 400 +. Hot Cam or similar would boost performance and shouldn't require tuning. Tuning would optimize performance.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
Popular topic. Budget? Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction for cylinder head porting and cam selection. You will be in the 2k.range plus tuning. With the " new top end" you will likely need long tube headers thats another 400 +. Hot Cam or similar would boost performance and shouldn't require tuning. Tuning would optimize performance.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 243
I’d caution a bit on wanting a super aggressive chop and basing a decision on that. Get the cam that performs where and how you want, don’t just chase a sound. You may end up loving the sound of a choppy idle and hating how it drives.
I did all of this work over last winter and into the spring. Entire valve train, cam, opti upgrade and on and on. I did all the work myself and while I have a stack of receipts I never added it up, I don’t want to know. Several thousand at least. Already had LE ported heads.
I chose the cam based on how I wanted it to perform. I wanted great drivability, a very broad torque curve, minimal cam surge, and the capability to pass emissions if it needed to (it’s exempt due to age, but laws can change). Another huge factor was sparing the stock bottom end from having to rev over what I considered too high, I set a ceiling of 6k shift points and 6100 fuel cutoff. All of that had me settled on a relatively mild cam, CC502. It performs just how I want but doesn’t really chop, though I kept stock mufflers. Louder mufflers it would have a mild lope.
My point, there is a lot to consider with a cam swap beyond idle sound.
I did all of this work over last winter and into the spring. Entire valve train, cam, opti upgrade and on and on. I did all the work myself and while I have a stack of receipts I never added it up, I don’t want to know. Several thousand at least. Already had LE ported heads.
I chose the cam based on how I wanted it to perform. I wanted great drivability, a very broad torque curve, minimal cam surge, and the capability to pass emissions if it needed to (it’s exempt due to age, but laws can change). Another huge factor was sparing the stock bottom end from having to rev over what I considered too high, I set a ceiling of 6k shift points and 6100 fuel cutoff. All of that had me settled on a relatively mild cam, CC502. It performs just how I want but doesn’t really chop, though I kept stock mufflers. Louder mufflers it would have a mild lope.
My point, there is a lot to consider with a cam swap beyond idle sound.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Good advice...lope does not equal fast...every gearhead likes it but if it doesnt perform like it sounds you will NOT be happy. Some of the strongest st cars Ive owned had good heads and mild cams. These days I like to use quiet mufflers just for the wtf factor when you nail it. Too many mouth breathers believe loud is fast and laugh at quiet stuff. Not always!
Last edited by cv67; Sep 2, 2020 at 11:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
I’d caution a bit on wanting a super aggressive chop and basing a decision on that. Get the cam that performs where and how you want, don’t just chase a sound. You may end up loving the sound of a choppy idle and hating how it drives.
I did all of this work over last winter and into the spring. Entire valve train, cam, opti upgrade and on and on. I did all the work myself and while I have a stack of receipts I never added it up, I don’t want to know. Several thousand at least. Already had LE ported heads.
I chose the cam based on how I wanted it to perform. I wanted great drivability, a very broad torque curve, minimal cam surge, and the capability to pass emissions if it needed to (it’s exempt due to age, but laws can change). Another huge factor was sparing the stock bottom end from having to rev over what I considered too high, I set a ceiling of 6k shift points and 6100 fuel cutoff. All of that had me settled on a relatively mild cam, CC502. It performs just how I want but doesn’t really chop, though I kept stock mufflers. Louder mufflers it would have a mild lope.
My point, there is a lot to consider with a cam swap beyond idle sound.
I did all of this work over last winter and into the spring. Entire valve train, cam, opti upgrade and on and on. I did all the work myself and while I have a stack of receipts I never added it up, I don’t want to know. Several thousand at least. Already had LE ported heads.
I chose the cam based on how I wanted it to perform. I wanted great drivability, a very broad torque curve, minimal cam surge, and the capability to pass emissions if it needed to (it’s exempt due to age, but laws can change). Another huge factor was sparing the stock bottom end from having to rev over what I considered too high, I set a ceiling of 6k shift points and 6100 fuel cutoff. All of that had me settled on a relatively mild cam, CC502. It performs just how I want but doesn’t really chop, though I kept stock mufflers. Louder mufflers it would have a mild lope.
My point, there is a lot to consider with a cam swap beyond idle sound.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,775
Likes: 585
From: Texas
Call Advanced Induction. They will fix you up with ported heads and a cam that matches the heads. They got their start with the gen 2 LT1's, they really know the engine.
In my own case, I had a stock headed LS1 that the previous owner had put a Comp 234/246 cam in, that was making about 430 rwhp and 375 rwtq. I had AI port the heads and send me a similar cam, and the car made 456 rwhp and 426 rwtq. But the big change was that below 3500 rpm, the car was making over 100 ft/lbs of torque MORE than it was with the stock heads.
This is what the car sounds like:
In my own case, I had a stock headed LS1 that the previous owner had put a Comp 234/246 cam in, that was making about 430 rwhp and 375 rwtq. I had AI port the heads and send me a similar cam, and the car made 456 rwhp and 426 rwtq. But the big change was that below 3500 rpm, the car was making over 100 ft/lbs of torque MORE than it was with the stock heads.
This is what the car sounds like:
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 4,648
Likes: 1,059
From: N.E. Ohio OH
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
i agree mostly, before this car I had a 2011 SS camaro 6 speed
Can you get good performance out of a LT1, you bet. Is it going to be fun, absolutely. But dollar for dollar, the car you used to have would respond more and be less expensive to do it. If you think that you are going to out do the Camaro you referenced (without bringing out the wheel barrow of money) you chose the wrong car.
You need to evaluate your expectations. Just the heads, headers and cam that I have bought for my '96 I am building have exceeded the budget you have. And with that it is getting in the area of the 2011 with a cam. That doesn't take into account the rockers I bought, the new injectors I am going to need, doing the tuning, etc.
Last edited by drcook; Sep 2, 2020 at 01:17 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 252
Likes: 30
From: San Diego Ca
Call Advanced Induction. They will fix you up with ported heads and a cam that matches the heads. They got their start with the gen 2 LT1's, they really know the engine.
In my own case, I had a stock headed LS1 that the previous owner had put a Comp 234/246 cam in, that was making about 430 rwhp and 375 rwtq. I had AI port the heads and send me a similar cam, and the car made 456 rwhp and 426 rwtq. But the big change was that below 3500 rpm, the car was making over 100 ft/lbs of torque MORE than it was with the stock heads.
This is what the car sounds like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Qanq74X0N8
In my own case, I had a stock headed LS1 that the previous owner had put a Comp 234/246 cam in, that was making about 430 rwhp and 375 rwtq. I had AI port the heads and send me a similar cam, and the car made 456 rwhp and 426 rwtq. But the big change was that below 3500 rpm, the car was making over 100 ft/lbs of torque MORE than it was with the stock heads.
This is what the car sounds like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Qanq74X0N8
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
Apples to oranges. A 2011 SS Camaro starts out with 42% more HP (426 vs 300). You are playing catch up to technology, 2 different engine generations/designs. There is nothing inexpensive you can do that will overcome the 16 yr advancements. Tuning is better, heads are better, on and on. GM flatly learned. The software to tune a 95 is antiquated compared to the software to tune a 2011.
Can you get good performance out of a LT1, you bet. Is it going to be fun, absolutely. But dollar for dollar, the car you used to have would respond more and be less expensive to do it. If you think that you are going to out do the Camaro you referenced (without bringing out the wheel barrow of money) you chose the wrong car.
You need to evaluate your expectations. Just the heads, headers and cam that I have bought for my '96 I am building have exceeded the budget you have. And with that it is getting in the area of the 2011 with a cam. That doesn't take into account the rockers I bought, the new injectors I am going to need, doing the tuning, etc.
Can you get good performance out of a LT1, you bet. Is it going to be fun, absolutely. But dollar for dollar, the car you used to have would respond more and be less expensive to do it. If you think that you are going to out do the Camaro you referenced (without bringing out the wheel barrow of money) you chose the wrong car.
You need to evaluate your expectations. Just the heads, headers and cam that I have bought for my '96 I am building have exceeded the budget you have. And with that it is getting in the area of the 2011 with a cam. That doesn't take into account the rockers I bought, the new injectors I am going to need, doing the tuning, etc.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 4,648
Likes: 1,059
From: N.E. Ohio OH
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
For speaking/illustrative purposes, this kit will get you there. Gives you an idea of the cost. Add in some headers, better injectors.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k304-430-400
It has all those "extra" parts that add up quick. Head bolts, gaskets.
How many miles on the engine ? As long as it is all apart, if there are lots of miles, then a water pump. How about the timing chain ? A roller is $220 plus depending on which you get.
Don't forget that to pull the harmonic balancer and hub, you need to do some research on the right way to go about it. GM had a special tool.
You will hit and pass that $4000.00 mark real fast. I was surprised myself at how expensive parts are nowadays.
If you are really going down this path, the very best thing you could do for yourself, is spend a few nights running searches and reading here on the forum and other forums, etc.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k304-430-400
It has all those "extra" parts that add up quick. Head bolts, gaskets.
How many miles on the engine ? As long as it is all apart, if there are lots of miles, then a water pump. How about the timing chain ? A roller is $220 plus depending on which you get.
Don't forget that to pull the harmonic balancer and hub, you need to do some research on the right way to go about it. GM had a special tool.
You will hit and pass that $4000.00 mark real fast. I was surprised myself at how expensive parts are nowadays.
If you are really going down this path, the very best thing you could do for yourself, is spend a few nights running searches and reading here on the forum and other forums, etc.
Last edited by drcook; Sep 2, 2020 at 09:43 PM.
