For a while now, I've noticed my car not cranking on the first try - I'll have to bump the ignition a couple times to get it to crank.

Today I had to push start it after it just wouldn't start at all. No "security" light indicating VATS was triggered (and if it were, the push start wouldn't have worked). When I'd try to crank, the lights on the dash would go out like normal, but nothing would happen - not even a clicking solenoid. Battery voltage was strong, but just to be sure I put a jump pack on it - no difference.

The starter and ignition switch are both relatively new. I'm not totally sure how the ignition switch works internally, but perhaps it's leaving the "on" position (causing lights to go out) without quite reaching the "crank" position? I was just doing some stuff under the dash, so my other thought is that I tugged a wire loose, but I don't see anything out of place down there. Any thoughts?

Edit: Oh, or possibly a sticking starter relay? Is that possible?

 

Hmm, it cranks just fine now. Seems like the issue is heat-related. My header is running right next to the starter, so maybe it's cooked. I don't see how that would explain occasionally needing to bump the key a few times, though.

 

My 90 exhibits the same symptoms. I am working through everything now and will let you what I find. Maybe someone else will chime in with areas to check. I am working through the wiring schematics now.

 

Do you hear one single click from the starter when you try it? If so, it might be the solenoid contacts. Just replaced them on my son's 90. Was a cheap and easy fix, if that's your problem. Here's what the before/after of the solenoid contacts looked like. The big step in the "before" picture was just wear over time from impact and arcing eroding away the material until the plunger no longer made contact. Before failing completely, his would also work sometimes if he tried cranking enough. It was just happening when the motion internally caused the plunger to line up just right such that good contact material on all surfaces could touch.

 

A good Auto electrical guy could fix it very easily as well. The old fashioned Starter is not a very complicated piece. Today I would not buy a "rebuilt", take the original and get it fixed or rebuilt locally. Never give up your core parts that are original to your Corvette. It is possible to get the devices re-built here in the good Old USA and keep the original part on your Corvette.

Cooked or "Overheated" Starter is not that uncommon in Corvettes with our space limitations. When the engine is Hot the starter would crank slower than normal if at all. They do make an assortment of covers or heat shields for the starter motor.

I pulled mine and replaced it with a Gear Drive Starter. This starter can crank my higher compression very easily. The one I have can be rotated around to get the maximum clearance, I didn't have too anyway. It was marginally more expensive than a new regular starter but has much more cranking power.

Then I installed a device that pulled 20* of timing only when cranking. Once the engine starts it reverts back to the factory setting. Today a lot of the new aftermarket ignition boxes offer this as a feature. It really takes a load off your starter pulling that much timing while cranking. The device had increments of 5* with a max of 20*. With a 12.25-1 Compression ratio it takes a good starter to spin it fast enough to start.

Together they all work together and make the starting an easier process.

Be careful of the placement of your headers near the Fiberglass parts. There are way too many sad stories about Corvettes and headers. I have paint damage on the hood from the heat coming off the headers. I think it is from shutting down and leaving the hood closed on a hot day. I am looking into making a reflective insulation blanket for the hood of my C3. Either that or let the cooling fans run for 20 minutes after shut down.

The only issue I have with my full length headers on my C3 427 is that they are close to the power steering reservoir. I relocated the reservoir further away and that helps.

 

If you later determine that this is not heat related, try adjusting the ignition switch. Column drop is required for this.

 

It just happened to me again. Curiously, the first attempt to push start was unsuccessful, but I don't *think* that's relevant.
When I got it home, I tried to start it again, and it still would not. This continues to point to a heat issue. I threw a multimeter on the battery terminals, and it measured 12.5v. When I tried to start, it dropped 0.01v or less. I would think the starter solenoid consumes enough power to cause more of a voltage drop than that.
It doesn't click when I turn the key (unless it's very, VERY subtle), and I notice that as I turn the key to the 'crank' position two sequential and independent changes occur in the lights on the dash. This indicates to me that the ignition switch is properly leaving the 'on' position and entering the 'crank' position.

So it seems the solenoid is neither firing (no click) nor attempting to fire (no voltage drop). The only thing I can think is a bad starter, but I can't think of how it would fail such that the solenoid becomes an open circuit when it gets hot.

 

Bypass your clutch safety switch.

 

Hmm, the clutch switch hadn't occurred to me. Do they just stick closed sometimes?

 

An inferior design. All the voltage for starting goes through the switch. They get burnt up or carboned contacts. They changed the switch circuitry in 92 or 93. Can’t remember which.

 

I'd agree with checking this. I haven't fought this particular problem, but aside from this or the starter enable relay, there's not much else in the circuit other than the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.

 

Some info for you to browse. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...hopefully.html

 

my 85 did the same thing....a gear reduction started fixed everything.....starts in a mili second.....

 

Finally did it at home when I had it up on the ramps. The starter is getting 12v, and the small wire is switching to hot when I turn the key like I infer it should. Nothing is clicking, so I think the relay that powers the solenoid is going bad. Time for a new starter.

The '90 already has a gear reduction starter from the factory, right?

 

easy to see...my 85's starter was massive....the gear reduction starters are quite small, but powerful.......not sure about 90, but I'd say no.......

 

my fault for chipping in on a non 1985..... glad I said "not sure".....

 

Just an update, the starter replacement seems to have fixed it!