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In my L98, I run Prestone 50/50 mix. And since just yesterday it decided to leak, I can tell you 2 years later it has held up very nicely. Still has a distinct green color and you can feel the lubricity if you rub it between your fingers. Seems like there was very little breakdown, but in 2 years it has probably only got 1500-2000 miles on it.
Unfortunately, PO installed a sub par radiator. Looks like a weld is leaking, but I need to get it out to check for sure.
In my L98, I run Prestone 50/50 mix. And since just yesterday it decided to leak, I can tell you 2 years later it has held up very nicely. Still has a distinct green color and you can feel the lubricity if you rub it between your fingers. Seems like there was very little breakdown, but in 2 years it has probably only got 1500-2000 miles on it.
Unfortunately, PO installed a sub par radiator. Looks like a weld is leaking, but I need to get it out to check for sure.
i chased a leak for months.
thought it was a hose clamp
ended up being the OEM radiator where it joins the plastic side tanks
a cheapo replacement radiator worked amazing - including cooling
Prestone green is ethylene glycol... most are actually. You can find sds sheets from any company and they'll tell you whats in it. Not exactly but most of it. Its all the same ****.
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
A guy I know that wrenches for a living said he religiously changes out the antifreeze on his vehicles annually and only uses distilled water to thin 50/50. Original equipment with 97k on the clock...
Last edited by stew86MCSS396; Sep 23, 2020 at 05:41 PM.
Not sure where you are at but here in Michigan Orielly’s auto parts sells the old school green concentrate. I mix it myself with distilled water as it’s cheaper than using the pre-mixed stuff.
Not sure where you are at but here in Michigan Orielly’s auto parts sells the old school green concentrate. I mix it myself with distilled water as it’s cheaper than using the pre-mixed stuff.
Yes, Lansing here and I buy my stuff at O'Reilly's since it is the closest store to my house. I flushed my old stuff with reverse osmosis water from my house's drinking water system and some Preston flush. Current radiator is clean as can be. This weekend I will be investigating why it sprung a leak.
ended up being the OEM radiator where it joins the plastic side tanks
a cheapo replacement radiator worked amazing - including cooling
I borrowed a rental tool coolant system pressure tester. I am sure it seeps some while setting, but I had coolant on my pulleys, over by the battery, hood insulation pad... just all over the place except near any hose or the water pump. Once I hit 10PSI the thing was spraying like a geyser from the fins near a fan. Doesn't look like the electrical fan could hit it, but I won't know for sure until I get it out and can really look at it. No question where the leak is now, just have to figure out what caused it and how to avoid it in the future.
G30 is an OAT type coolant just like Dex-Cool/& all current Prestone Products, and some may argue not a good choice for our C4's
G 05 is a HOAT Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant and a better choice.
It's good for 5 years. G05 is the European spec for HOAT coolant
I'm running it in my "89 C4. Any Mopar dealer sells it dyed orange, which is easier to see in our plastic C4 coolant overflow tanks, (Zerex is dyed a light yellow). (Mopar part #68048953AC)
Prestone only makes OAT type coolants similar to Dexcool. OAT and HOAT coolants don't mix well as their corrosion inhibitor chemicals don't play nice with each other
You can use either just make sure you flush out the old coolant completely when changing from one to another!!!!!
G 30 is a HOAT Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant and a good choice. It's good for 5 years. G30 is the European spec for HOAT coolant
I'm running it in my "89 C4. Any Mopar dealer sells it dyed orange, (Zerex is dyed a light yellow), which is easier to see in our plastic C4 coolant overflow tanks. (Mopar part #68048953AC)
Prestone only makes OAT type coolants similar to Dexcool. OAT and HOAT coolants don't mix well as their corrosion inhibitor chemicals don't play nice with each other
You can use either just make sure you flush out the old coolant completely when changing from one to another!!!!!
im going to go with the green stuff, extended life (or max life) from zerex
i believe ive come across red antifreeze, blue antifreeze, purple antifreeze, yellow antifreeze, green antifreeze snd orange antifreeze. (Im not lying)
hey, i hear the purple antifreeze tastes like grape !
Last edited by dizwiz24; Sep 26, 2020 at 07:40 PM.
im going to go with the green stuff, extended life (or max life) from zerex
i believe ive come across red antifreeze, blue antifreeze, purple antifreeze, yellow antifreeze, green antifreeze snd orange antifreeze. (Im not lying)
hey, i hear the purple antifreeze tastes like grape !
You can use that coolant. Looks like an old technology IAT Inorganic Acid Technology coolant with silicates, old school "green" antifreeze.
Problem with it is that it needs to be replaced annually as the silicates in it tend to fall out of solution diminishing it's corrosion protection qualities. Not the best choice with all the longer life coolants available today unless you like doing annual maintenance. But that's your call.
You can use that coolant. Looks like an old technology IAT Inorganic Acid Technology coolant with silicates, old school "green" antifreeze.
Problem with it is that it needs to be replaced annually as the silicates in it tend to fall out of solution diminishing it's corrosion protection qualities. Not the best choice with all the longer life coolants available today unless you like doing annual maintenance. But that's your call.
so what would you put in?
the purple stuff, blue stuff, yellow stuff, orange stuff or red stuff
i remember about 15 yrs ago all the news stories about dex-cool (orange stuff) causing $1000’s of engine damage. Im smart enough to understand that mixing the green and orange is a no-no. But how do i know theres not some passage left that didnt get all the green stuff out.
the green stuff - i change it every 8-10 yrs
i also use distilled water (i mix it myself) and water wetter (which perhaps has anti corrosion properties of its own).
the coolant that dumped out looks so new and feels slippery. Theres no rust or anything unusual coming out with it.
IMHO the change the antifreeze every yr was just a campaign to help out the jiffy lube and auto service center shops and sell more prestone. Its outdated advice imho
the purple stuff, blue stuff, yellow stuff, orange stuff or red stuff
i remember about 15 yrs ago all the news stories about dex-cool (orange stuff) causing $1000’s of engine damage. Im smart enough to understand that mixing the green and orange is a no-no. But how do i know theres not some passage left that didnt get all the green stuff out.
the green stuff - i change it every 8-10 yrs
i also use distilled water (i mix it myself) and water wetter (which perhaps has anti corrosion properties of its own).
the coolant that dumped out looks so new and feels slippery. Theres no rust or anything unusual coming out with it.
IMHO the change the antifreeze every yr was just a campaign to help out the jiffy lube and auto service center shops and sell more prestone. Its outdated advice imho
prestone green (the one that says extended life) is interchangeable with dexcool... back then it wasn't but for it to be an extended drain... it is compatible. I've done it (accidentally) and called prestone about it and they said it's fine. Drained that coolant out after 7ish years and aside from it not being dex orange... it was fine. No sludge or anything. Car actually runs cold. This is an LS based full size.
prestone green (the one that says extended life) is interchangeable with dexcool... back then it wasn't but for it to be an extended drain... it is compatible. I've done it (accidentally) and called prestone about it and they said it's fine. Drained that coolant out after 7ish years and aside from it not being dex orange... it was fine. No sludge or anything. Car actually runs cold. This is an LS based full size.
X2 on the runs cold with the green stuff
i have reprogrammed fans and 160 tstat, but with my cheapo replacement radiator. 178-182F is the hottest ive seen and thats been on a 95F day
Straight water may work the best at transferring heat but it won't help the seals in your water pump as it doesn't have the extra lubricants. I used straight Distilled water with a bottle of water wetter in it. Then your water pump will be happier.
I am very hesitant to mix two separate individual technologies together in my cooling system.
I only use the green old style anti-freeze and distilled water or on my High Compression 427 I have been using Evans NPG for twenty five plus years and never had any troubles. If it was less expensive more people might try it. You run the system with ZERO Pressure and a radiator cap made for 0 psi cooling systems. My Hoses all look brand new and the coolant is still working.
When the coolant gets Hot inside your engine it forms a layer of tiny bubbles that keep the water from touching the metal surfaces. The extra surfactant they use in Water Wetter or EVANS NPG eliminates the bubbles and removes the heat more effectively.
My regular DD vehicles get 70% distilled water and 30% anti-freeze here in Northern Virginia as we don't get severe cold like people up north get.
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