Joined the forums a couple of yrs ago, this is my first time posting. I have an 88 coupe, L98 with 4+3. It developed a power steering leak about a month ago. I have tried the stop leak and it slowed it down but did not fix. I took the pump and hoses off this wkend. The leak is around the input shaft, where the steering column connects. I have been doing a lot of reading and it seems the popular opinion is that if it is leaking to replace the whole unit. Just from looking it dont appear it would be that hard to replace the seal. I have found a seal kit online for $20.
My question for you people in the know. Is it possible to replace that seal and if so how big of a job is it. I have decent mechanic skills but I have never worked on a rack and pinion so I may be totally missing something here.
thank you for any advice

 

Welcome to the Corvette Forum!

I too have a 1988 but mine is a automatic Coupe. On these Corvettes "heat" is the big killer of the seals and hoses in the power steering system. I sent my PS Rack to Turn One and they can fix anything and get your original rack back to you in a jiffy. You could buy a rebuilt Rack from a Lot of places but there are few who know as much about PS Racks as these guys do!

I am a very hands on person and I do most of my own work. Removing and re-installing the rack will be work enough. I would not attempt to rebuild a rack and pinion at home myself. I have rebuilt dozens of engines in my life but never a Power rack and Pinion. I do know that Turn One does great work. I would certainly ship my unit off to get it overhauled and returned to you so you to be re-installed. Some other folks would tell you that they have had great experiences with Advanced Auto "Rebuilt" Rack and Pinion. It is your choice!

 

Hi, I have an 89 and I tried all the additives in the world to stop the leak. Nothing worked. My rack is 2 turns lock to lock and I was concerned about buying a reman as some have warned that what they got was not 2 turns. I checked with Turn One and at the time it was going to take a month to turn it around. Since this is a daily driver, that wouldn't do. So, I took it on myself. Fortunately a neighbor teaches welding a local Tech Univ. and worked for Lockheed. I took the rack out, I measured everything very carefully as I didn't want to come up short on my tie rods and then disassembled it the best I could at home and we then went to the mechanical engineering shop to use the press. We got it disassembled, almost. There is a seal about halfway down the rack that none of the pullers could reach. I went to a local chevy dealer and the service manager knew exactly what tool I needed but they had gotten rid of it a couple of years earlier. I think I saw one on ebay for $125. After a lot of thought and then some prayer, I came up with a puller that cost less than $3 and pulled the seal. Getting the rack back together was much easier, until it came to inserting the pinion gears. There are 4 or 5 hard seals, Teflon I think, that have to be put on the pinion shaft and then inserted into the casing. I found a special insertion tool made out of polycarbonate (I think) on ebay and bought it. The rest of the assembly went much easier, I think I spent about $75 (I also cleaned all the suspension components replaced all the ball joints upper and lower and bushings. It was a quite a bit of work, but I enjoy a challenge.

 

Thanks for the replies. I have checked out Turn One and if I do a replacement I will go with them. My rack and pinion is in great shape, other than the input seal. All I am wanting to do right now is to replace the 1 seal. I have looked at an exploded diagram and it appears all I need to do is to remove the retaining ring and the seals are right there. I am wanting to find out is that is correct or is there is more to it that I am not seeing.
thanks

 

Turn One rebuilt my two turn rack. Works perfect.

Went

 

I have replaced the seal you are talking about. But just to be sure, it's about a 1 1/2 inch across. I had to make a "tool" to seat the seal back into the R & P. I'm at the bottom of the food chain on attaching pictures or I would send you one of the tool. I just took a flat washer slightly smaller than the seal and welded a short piece of pipe to it, this allowed me to gently tap the seal into place.

Joel

 

Thank you for that information. The seal I am talking about is where the steering column connects to the rack and I would guess it to be around 1 1/2". I was wanting to hear from someone that had done the job before I attempted it. I appreciate your response and the idea for the tool.

 

Yea, I'm sure it's the same seal I replaced on mine several years ago. I seem to remember a snap ring in there also. Just be sure to go slow and easy to keep the seal straight going in.

Joel