voltage drop when cranking.
Mine dropped to 10.4 during crank (the car started this time). Does this sound OK?
I prob started when I removed the battery during a master clutch assy replacement. After reinstalling the battery, I tried to crank and I got a click then NO lights, nothing. I cleaned the hot lead and used Sodium bi to remove some corrosion, and the car started. But over the last 2 weeks I occasionally get a click click. the car will eventually start but I feel that if it was a bad battery connection it would not be intermittent.
3 questions:
drop to 10.4 during crank OK??
shouldn't such an intermittent prob be most likely my starter?
could it be my starter enable relay...the click seems to come from the console?
THANKS
[Modified by cgtarga1, 9:35 AM 12/4/2002]
Intermittent cranking could be poor battery cable connections, worn start solenoid switch, worn out brushes , poor connection of the ground (neg) cable to the frame, defective clutch safety switch (xmsn selector sw if automatic).
First I would remove both batt cables and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and replace. You want your battery connections to be just like your lover, bright and tight! :D
If you hear a click from the center of the console, then your start enable relay is operating, but its contacts could be worn. Measure the volts on the clutch switch (jumped) while hitting the start position on the ign sw. You will read 12v if the start enable relay is ok.
Jump the clutch switch and see if it will then crank.
[Modified by jfb, 10:50 AM 12/4/2002]
So if you have a voltmeter, first measure the voltage on the battery terminals during cranking & see if it stays at 12 volts, if so the battery is probably good.
Next measure the voltage on the battery cables the same way & see if it stays at 12 volts, if so the battery & it's connections are probably good. If voltages drops, then clean battery connections and try again.
Next measure the voltage between the battery positive and a remote ground during cranking. If voltage drops then clean & fix the battery ground cable connection to frame and try again.
Ultimately you need to measure close to 12 volts on the starting motor. If it is not there & the above checks are OK,then the problem is probably in the starter relay contacts or its connections.
In my opinion 10.5 volts ON the battery terminal is indicative of a weak battery, but that is not what the dash meter sees. On the other hand I agree that 10.5 volts during cranking should start the car.
Poor electrical connections often lead to intermittant performance & problems.
So if you have a voltmeter, first measure the voltage on the battery terminals during cranking & see if it stays at 12 volts, if so the battery is probably good.
Next measure the voltage on the battery cables the same way & see if it stays at 12 volts, if so the battery & it's connections are probably good. If voltages drops, then clean battery connections and try again.
Next measure the voltage between the battery positive and a remote ground during cranking. If voltage drops then clean & fix the battery ground cable connection to frame and try again.
Ultimately you need to measure close to 12 volts on the starting motor. If it is not there & the above checks are OK,then the problem is probably in the starter relay contacts or its connections.
In my opinion 10.5 volts ON the battery terminal is indicative of a weak battery, but that is not what the dash meter sees. On the other hand I agree that 10.5 volts during cranking should start the car.
Poor electrical connections often lead to intermittant performance & problems.
Checking the pos with frame ground is a good idea. I was assuming the grd term was ok as it had no corrosion, but I'll make sure.
Thanks to all.
My main caution on this subject is before you discard a battery as being bad, just be sure it is in fact the battery & not a poor connection somewhere.


















