My 89 is giving me problems with starting. Once every 30-40 times I try to start it the car will show the instrument panel lights but will not start and the starter makes no noise. I thought it might be the VATS system, but wouldn't that happen on a regular basis? Where should I start? I have got to solve this problem, when it doesn't start I just keep trying until it does. I sometimes wait 15 minutes before trying again, sometimes after an hour of waiting it still sits dead. Hope this is clear, got any ideas? TIA

 

it could very well be the VATS.
the little pellet in your ignition key can get worn, if the computer doesn't see exactly what it should from that pellet then it won't start, I'm not sure how many try's you get before it shuts down totally (I think for something like 5-15 minutes) once it does that all you can do is wait then try again.
you can get a new key made at a GM dealer (with pellet) or have the VATS disabled (there is a wiring gismo for this or you can have it disabled in the E-Prom).
all of these fix's can be pricy, for what they are anyway


[Modified by ol,RJ, 12:28 AM 12/5/2002]

 

:iagree:

 

Stupid question, but have you tried the spare ignition key? That one should be fairly new as it is not used on a regular basis.

 

If VATS does not read a resistance value from your key when you turn on the ignition, VATS will disable the starter and fuel for 4 minutes even if the correct key resistance value is read on subsequent attempts. If it is the VATS, and it sounds like it is, replacing the key will get you by for a while because the contacts on the side of the resistor in the key wear down over time from inserting it into the ignition cylinder. However, the ignition cylinder itself also becomes worn and will fail eventually.

When this subject comes up, most everyone recommends buying a bypass kit. This kit has a resistor with the same resistance as your key pellet and plugs in at the bottom of the steering column, and provides the ECM with the resistor information normally provided by your key when it is inserted into the cylinder.

Before you run out and buy a bypass kit, consider that the GM column used in the '84-'89 corvette can be cracked open and started by even the most unsophisticated car theives. The VATS system in my opinion was way ahead of its time when introduced in 1986 and is still a pretty good system by today's standards. Why would you want to bypass an effective system like VATS if the only thing wrong with it is the ignition cylinder? Besides, the bypass kit only disables the ignition cylinder, the rest of the VATS system hasn't gone away.

I replaced my key and ignition cylinder on my '86 and have had no problems whatsoever with the VATS. I also have the peace of mind of knowing that if some juvenile car thief decides he can crack my column while I'm shopping at the mall and steal my car, chances are he will not know about the VATS or how to disable it. Sure, there are pros out there who can steal your car no matter what, but in today's world I doubt most theives are "corvette savvy" enough to even know what VATS is and which year corvettes have it.

Replacing the cylinder isn't really that hard. The only special tool required is a steering wheel puller. The biggest PITA is reassembling the column, as there is a retainer that holds a spring and plate on with a clip that takes some real patience to put back together. Supposedly GM makes a special tool to do this, but I was able to do it with two flat screwdrivers. It was worth it to know that the car is still protected by the VATS. :yesnod:

 

I had this exact problem on my 88 and I dont have vats - or there is a bypass already in. It ended up being a bad connection to the battery. I cleaned them real well and replaced the bolts ($1.74). It hasn't happened again.

 

Thanks for all of the help!

 

Try your spare ign key first. If you cannot hear the start enable relay click behind the center of the dash when you hit crank position, then you likely have VATS problem. If you can hear it click, but no crank, it could be a defective clutch safety switch (xmsn selector sw if auto). You can jump these switches and try a crank. The contacts in the ign sw wear and stop making good contact with the pellet on your ign key, then the start enable relay will not close and no crank. You can test this when it won't crank by finding the 2 pin connector from the pellet contacts (on my 87 they come out the steering column on the floor and are under the carpet), and unplugging them and with the ign key in place, measure the ohms on the wires from the steering column. It should read the same as the pellet resistance. Over 10k ohms, you have a defective ign sw. You can place a fixed resistor on the wires going to the passenger side (VATS module) the same value as your pellet and you will have defeate VATS so you can schedule replacement of the ign sw. Don't permanently defeat VATS because 99% of cars are stolen by bashing the column and jumping the ign sw.