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Figured I'd share what is basically a gutted MAF that you can 3D print for a couple of bucks for the folks running a speed density setup with the stock plumbing. It snaps right into place and uses the stock o-ring, a smidge tighter than stock, but that just maybe my printer. Still in the early tuning stages but I'll update this thread with HP gains if any. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4649673
Just want to say that your design was a huge help. I wanted that OEM appearing look, without having to keep a $200 part on my car that is no longer needed. I used CraftCloud to have the part printed up. $55 to my door in less than 2 weeks. It fits perfect and looks stock.
Just want to say that your design was a huge help. I wanted that OEM appearing look, without having to keep a $200 part on my car that is no longer needed. I used CraftCloud to have the part printed up. $55 to my door in less than 2 weeks. It fits perfect and looks stock.
What material was used to print this part? I hesitate to employ 3D printed parts in high temperature environments (like under the hood) because one of the more common materials used in 3D printing (PLA) begins to soften at 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
What material was used to print this part? I hesitate to employ 3D printed parts in high temperature environments (like under the hood) because one of the more common materials used in 3D printing (PLA) begins to soften at 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
I will admit, this is my first time using a 3d printed part and I wasn't sure what material would be best. I went with Carbon Fiber PLA. I guess I will find out how well it holds up in practice but for $50 I figure it was worth the risk to try it out.
Edit: I see cloudcraft also offers quotes for ABS which probably would have been a better choice as far as heat resistance but I don't think it would have turned out as nice visually as the carbon fiber PLA. It will be interesting to see how it holds up though. I'm just happy it fits.
I have quite a few 3D printed parts under my hood now. PLA+ does great for making guns in your basement but I don't know how long it would hold up under a hood. But in my experience PETG has worked great. I haven't had anything melt yet. I imagine PETG+ would work better. ABS has also worked well but it's a pain to print with.
Glad to see this is getting some use, I went the LS swap route before I could finish tuning my car so no update on that front.
With PLA you can use an epoxy resin to stabilize the prints, this makes it more temperature resistant and absolutely air tight. Since this is post air filter, it's not a bad idea to brush on some epoxy resin to make sure the porosity in the print doesn't allow fine particulates in.
I've used this technique on a lot of parts under the hood and even snuck in fiberglass and CF to make parts stronger where required. Its a nice easy and cheap way of getting robust parts made quick.
The prototypes for my hood cowls are PLA, fiberglass and resin, and theyve sat in the sun for months with no issues.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Feb 26, 2023 at 12:32 PM.
I should have put resin on, but sadly it slipped my mind before I started driving the car. The part has started to deform, so I ordered a new one. This time I am going to try out PC-ABS and see how that does. A little pricier but definitely more heat resistant.
85-89 MAF Delete
