C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Front sway bar issue - skipping ?

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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 10:37 PM
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Default Front sway bar issue - skipping ?

Hey everyone this is a weird one I havnt experienced over the years of owning a c4.

Recently replaced the motor and in the process upgraded the rack and pinion and steering pump. Now that the car is running I have an odd skipping (the only way I’d call it) when the wheel is fully locked and reversing out of my driveway. Almost seems like the sway bar could be bound up and the front is kind of skipping? Really hard to explain honestly. It also seems my tires are experiencing a lot of wear on the inside treads (~500 break-in miles so far.

Obviously it needs an alignment after the R&P, but the skipping seems odd. Also, it’s noticeably “jumpy” over bumps at speed.

Wondering if anyone has felt something similar...
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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 08:59 AM
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Sounds like you are seriously out of alignment. You need to get it aligned before you can diagnose anymore and have to buy another set of tires.

Last edited by drcook; Nov 15, 2020 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by drcook
Sounds like you are seriously out of alignment. You need to get it aligned before you can diagnose anymore and have to buy another set of tires.
Well I put it in storage yesterday so an alignment and further miles will have to wait until next year...

For sure it needs an alignment, wasn’t sure if anyone had experience with the sway bar causing this too. It had to be removed/installed for the R&P, however I did follow the FSM direction for torquing the end links when the vehicle is at ride height.
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 04:10 AM
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Is it possible it's on upside down?
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:36 PM
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Depending on where the vehicle is stored - You might want to do a "backyard alignment" to get an idea if the car is even close.... If the car is parked on a flat level location - you can try this:



Camber is not an issue - it could be miles off and wouldn't explain what you're describing....

As for toe - ever heard of toe plates (Google it if you haven't) - but you can get by with a couple of two foot long (Straight) 2 X 4's - held about an inch or two off the ground (to miss the bulge in the tire) - pushed against both front tires - measure the distance behind the wheels and the distance in front of the wheels. The delta in distance is your toe - It should be roughly equal to zero to ever slightly pigeon tied. (1/16" or so) ....

Now to get a camber measurement - you need a digital level (some smart phones can do this) - and two roughly 1" spacers. Place a spacer at 6 O-Clock and at 12 O' Clock against the wheels - where the tire bead would sit. Measure the angle with respect to vertical - you're looking for the tire to be near vertical - or say less than 1 degree off from vertical.

IF you're within about 1/2 - 3/4 of a degree off vertical - you should be OK for now....

Could something be rubbing the tire at full lock ???
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:45 PM
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You replaced the rack. Now you're having wear on the insides of both your tires. I'd say that it's toe'd out.

That would also cause "skipping" and "noticeably jumpy".
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 11:36 PM
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I agree with the others: this is most likely a serious problem with the toe setting up front. The front swaybar would not cause this kind of problem, even if it were locked up solid (which you would know, because the car would ride like a rock).
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 08:05 PM
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

I had counted the number of turns to get tie rod ends off, but who knows if other changes to the rack resulted in the toe not being out. First order of business in the spring will be an alignment!
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