Have any of you guys W/ moisture problems tried moving the opti fresh air line out of the intake air duct & into the interior with a small engine fuel filter attached? Not my idea, I found it in a tech forum somewhere possibly here, only made sense to me. I had to do it once I switched over to the AO Eng. cold air intake thru the front bumper, or it was only a matter of time until my opti was full of moisture.
:seeya

 

I would like to ask that you please do NOT ditch any LT1 ignition enhancement projects. I honestly believe that the opti is a better design then it was given credit for by the people who have had trouble out of them. Sure it's not a perfect design but it's a lot less fragile than a lot of people make it out to be. If you could ask every single person who has replaced their opti because they just knew it was the problem you'll find that the majority of them just threw their money away and the real problem was something else.

In any case it's a less than perfect system and I would like to see as many aftermarket solutions out there as possible. If the signal side of the opti is perfected and the high voltage side is eliminated than this would solve all the problems with it. Granted I've never really liked the look of the CNP setup, but it sure would be easier on the plug wire routing. If the coils were mounted on the valve covers and I could use some short LS1 wire it would ultimately clean up the look of my engine compartment and do away with some ugly wire routing that I have now so I am very interested in any such setup assuming it's an easy bolt on solution.

I'm sure you don't want to give up too many secrets to the CNP setup, but I did have one question. I have an MSD digital 6 ignition and I really like it because of it's soft touch rev limiter and such. Would it be possible to continue using this ignition box? I'm guessing that it wouldn't be.

 

Quote:
We have a CNP system that is nearly complete and ready for testing, but judging from the negative responses that we have been unjustifiably given, we may shelf the project and apply the R&D funds somewhere else. Sometimes the hassle may not be worth it.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DTE,

From what I have read on this thread, you have done the best that can be done while still working with the high-voltage inside the Opti-Spark. I think if a lot of people considering updating to the later Opti-Spark take a look, they will realize they don't have to go out and buy the individual electrical and vacuum harnesses like I did -- plus they have a better sealing and tighter tolerances. When I purchased a new one, I put RTV sealant all around it to be sure -- even though my vacuum test said it was already sealed. If I need a new one, I will certainly try yours -- but, by that time, I am hoping the CNP unit is ready for me.

On the CNP project, I think the LT1/LT4 crowd will beat a path to your door -- especially those with modified engines. You can't go wrong with this.

Tom Piper

 

Remember the old Electromotive systemt hat eliminated the Opti? I saw Hoover had one. I t may be called something else, but he loved it, and you could actually wash your engine down. If I could get a system that I dont have to deal with all the time, which your company definitley is trying to do, and may have, if someone is willing to try it, I would by one. I just put a new one in a couple of months ago, so I am not in need of one , yet.
Get the test results out. long term racing, cold, hot , wet whatever. Let us know. We are skeptical by nature, well allot of Corvette owners are. I am.

 

I am within a month or two from replacing my Opti and now that you have come up with this one I am really considering going with it. Hopefully there will be some type of GP for us and I will go ahead and buy it before I need it. Sooooo...if you are gonna come up with one, lets do it. :yesnod:

 

sam smith (fairway chevrolet?) gave me a lifetime warantee-

i've been waiting for a red $600 solution to a $200 yellow problem

sorry,
i'm not impressed-
i better be able to drive my car through the ocean for $600

 

DTE,

I did not mean to "pass negative judgement" on your product without even seeing it. Admittedly, I have been predisposed (for years) to make very negative comments about GM's OEM Optispark cap sealing. Your upper cap 3-method sealing may be a superior & totally adequate solution. This billet setup is far superior to OEM because the leak prone base seal where intake manifold seepage & water "pools" has been eliminated. If there is a concern about mfg cost, I might suggest an O-ring & retention groove instead of the anodizing that is virtually hidden by the water pump and intake manifold weepage. I agree such a decision is not in your best interests...surely 95+% of clueless buyers would prefer anodizing. I've already heard requests for certain colors. Nokia might consider Opti "skin" kits in multiple patterns and colors. :rolleyes:

All kidding aside, this product is SUPERIOR to ANY LT1 ignition I've seen. Many folks have "thrown" OEM Optisparks on their car again and again while some have changed perfectly good water pumps & hoses. These solutions are more expensive than your product and less effective at correcting the problem. Others use a feather duster on their motor or resort to selling their car or picking an L98 with 50 less HP, just to avoid the Optispark. The current $300+ pricetag of a stock Optispark doesn't begin to tally the aggravation, towing and labor costs absorbed by many owners. It will surely save owners money while offering better reliability and peace of mind.


[Modified by Rick93Z07, 9:34 PM 12/8/2002]

 

We have established group pricing based on your requests. Click here for details:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=448659

Regards,
DTE

 

One more question about your product that will pertain to anybody who has changed their opti to the newer style.

When I converted over to the new style I had to replace the pigtail that connected the opti to the rest of the wiring harness. The 92 and maybe the 93 has a different connector on the engine side of this harness than the later models. As such I had to take my new $70 pigtail and very carefully disassemble the harness end of it and put those pins into the connector from my old harness. It's not really a hard thing to do but I know every time I do it I risk breaking the connector.

If you're developing a replacement for the older style opti then you would probably have to use this connector on them. Would it be possible to mix and match them so as to have one with the new drive setup and the old connector?

Another option would be to just upgrade the wiring harness side to accept the new plug, but I don't think that is very easy as it is the female side of the connector.

I know it might sound silly but this is one more thing I have to consider. My car would be a nightmare for somebody who thought everything on it was from a 92 :) Nothing they could buy would work anymore :)

 

DTE,

I understand the cynisism on this subject. Opti is a achyelles heel in these engines.

However, you guys seem to have addressed as many of the problems that can be addressed in a resonable manner.

Sure, the annodizing looks fancy, but I understand its need. That same 95% who will buy because will keep because. After 60k miles, and someone replaces their WP, may get all wacked if they see a messed up opti body and replace or cuss for a poor made part. yes. appearances mean a lot to some.

I think the aftermarket cap/roter will be the last pieces required to give us the 100k mile expected survival.

The reality is that even L98's require new distributors... or gears... or caps... rotors... coils... you name it. And the mileage varies.

I just think the biggest problem with optis is this: we don't have the simple luxury to replace the cap and rotor. call it distributor envy.

 

And along those same lines the opti is a PITA to get at & most of us were raised on the classic SBC that had a Dist cap & rotor just setting there begging to be changed at a moments notice, heck I even had a clear/transparent cap on a 66' Chevelle once and it was way cool at night, especially after a big party!
:D

 

Nathan-
We also have noticed the random mismatch inaccuracies of the female connector that attaches the Optispark electrical harness to the vehicle's engine harness. (on the right side of the intake manifold)

Our produst comes complete with a sealed, formed electrical harness that is already attached to the unit.

In an effort to reduce the chance and inconvienance of a possible connector mismatch, you will reuse your original OEM, grey female connector that is currently on your vehicle. We supply a small tool in the kit that enables you to remove the existing male pins very easily without damaging the connector at all.

You then re-insert the pins from our product in the same locations and your ready to go! All of our wires are tagged for easy identification.

This method will give the end user many different options to choose from in terms of connector type selection.

Regards,
DTE

 

For those of you that had a durability concern regarding our use of the original silicon-type perimeter seal in the construction of the DynaSpark Billet Distributer, you can now put those concerns to rest.

We have decided, based in part to the recent discussions and requests made here, to utilize a harsh-environment O-ring to seal the front cap to the aluminum case body, therefore eliminating the OEM silicon-type perimeter seal altogether. The O-ring will also be captured in the case to eliminate the chance of it sliding out of place during assembly and it will be reusable.

We will still also use our other two sealing techniques in conjunction with this O-ring so that the perimeter sealing of this component will be water tight.

This running change will be implemented into ALL of the units we have here as well as future ones.

Regards,
DTE

 

Your billet Optispark with Viton or equivalent O-ring sealing should be a worryfree, bulletproof design. This distributor assy should last longer than the motor. Owners might change the cap and rotor every 75K-150K. This should excite owners who change their complete, rusted Optispark assy every 30-50K miles.

I have great respect for a manufacturer that does not compromise quality and listens to it's customer's gripes...however unfounded. Anyone who owns a C4 should strongly consider this upgrade to avoid AAA towing and maximize reliability & performance. I will NEVER buy an OEM unit again.


[Modified by Rick93Z07, 4:27 PM 12/9/2002]

 

Will the price remain at $595 as listed on your web site? Was there going to be a group/forum discounted price offered? (EDIT) Scratch that I just found the other post that lists them at $495...Thanks

When will further details/pricing be released on the direct fire setup..


[Modified by superlund, 4:20 PM 12/9/2002]

 

Superlund-
There is a group purchase/introductory price of $495.00 thru the end of the year.

You can see details here on this board here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=448659

Regards,
DTE

 

whats this about this high voltage stuff in the opti? coil on plug like an ls1, does that eliminate the high voltage in the opti and make it more durable?

anyhow, i just bought a 95 style opti/cover for my 93 as my 388 is being built as we speak... i think im gonna have to sell it now and get this dynaspark! i dont have much faith in a oem opti going 7500 rpm :U