K, here's the deal, getting ready to remove the rear bumber, and repair where a neighbor backed into me. The bumper itself only needs minor work, but the black molding on the passenger side got 'smushed', making it mushroom out wider on that corner, meaning I need to get it replaced. The problem is, both the dealer here, and Ecklers, list the rear molding for an '86 as being discontinued. I'd rather not get a used piece, but I may not have any options. Anyone know of a place that might still sell the rear moldings for an '86? Also, if anyone has any advice on bumber removal, I'll field those responses as well :D

Thanks in advance

 

I removed my rear bumper a year ago and I'm glad that it is over. You need long skinny fingers and arms as there are 7 or 8 bolts on the top side of the bumper on each side of the gas tank filler that need to be removed. Lots of patience required. Here's how I did it. Take the gas filler door off and all the rubber around it off. May have to take the cap off as well to get to some of the bolts. Spray as many as you can see with W-40 or the like. There is a pattern to the bolts (every 2-3 inches across the top and down the sides that continues horizontally into the bottom section of the bumper by the wheel well). Remove the antenna and all the side lights. Remove the tail lights from however you can reach them (either thru the gas filler or underneath) Remove the license plate and all the lights there as well.

Now start working on the bumper bolts. As you work in from the inside tail light to the outside it gets more difficult. Take out the inside tail lights will help with the bolts over the outsidetail lights. I was lucky because I have a 17 yr old son with very long arms and he helped reach the last bolts over the outside tail light!

As for the molding, try Jeff at Superior Chevy in Kansas City. If I remember right the driver's side is no longer available but the passenger side may still be available. I got the pass side from him last year. Try to refurb with brake fluid and "Back to Black". Be very carefull when removing the molding bolts as they are probably rusted on. Again use W-40 or something (let it set) to help break the rust. If you are not careful the bolts will twist the molding frame then you're SOL.

Then reverse everyting and put it all back together. This is easier since you already know where everything is supposed to go and where all the bolts are. Regards Doug B

 

Thanks for the info, I'm glad I have all winter, I've got long arms, but they aren't skinny, so I will take it slow and easy, maybe 2-3 bolts a weekend hehe I have been putting it off forever, so I figure while it is parked it will be an ideal time... Do you have any other info on Superior Chevy? If they have a website that would be cool to get... I'll search for it as well..

thanks again

 

I would also be carefully when removing to not scratch you rear quarters, I scratch mine a little by the rear most corner when removing it (I didn't care as the whole car was getting painted), I would probably use masking tape if I was going to do it again.

 

I just went through the same thing. The driver's side is no longer available. Try Taber Corvette parts at http://www.tabercorvetteparts.com or J&D Corvette at 1-800-838-8353 for a good used piece. As far as removal, take the license plate off first, then use the opening to remove the inner tail lights with a 10mm 1/4" drive rachet. then use the inner taillight holes to get acess to the outer ones. You shouldn't have to take the gas tank lid off. Once this is done, you can reach all of the top 10mm bolts. If I remember correctly, you will want to remove your side belt moldings (behind the rear tire) in order to get to the ones holding the lower rocker to the upper rear quarter panel.You will also need to remove the inner fenderwell liners, or at least the rearmost screws.

If the belt molding bolts are rusted and spin freely without loosening, try drilling a large hole in the belt molding where the bolt is so that you can carefully drill it out. (make sure you can find a suitable replacement first!)

one more tip: You should leave a few bolts on loosely at the top until you are ready to remove the bumper, that way it won't fall off unexpectedly.

 

Bought the new/replacement molding from both Zip Products...and mid america.....everything was delivered ok.....but rememmber that these parts are getting harder and harder to find.....thats why I bought Xtra...
Just a real pain to replace.....
:D :eek: :D