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Last night I finally had time to pull the diff and batwing. From the buildup of grease/grime/dirt over the bolts at the top, I'd think that it's never been apart before. It was sealed with red silicone rather than a gasket. I'm wondering if that's factory considering that the batwing also supports the two main caps and there was also (a lot of) silicone around the main cap support area. From what I could tell it's never been apart. It had a fair amount of buildup of black gunk on the case interior and the oil was pretty black.
So, my question is, is this how the factory assembled them or was there supposed to be a gasket in there?
On a side note, how much posi lube should go back in when I reassemble?
No gasket. Clean it up, acetone surfaces and use either locktite red , or even rtv black to seal it up. I used black on mine 10 years ago no problems.....I also drilled and tapped a drain hole. Not difficult. Somewhere here is a photo of where to drill it. I'm sure you can find it. But do it now so any chips from drilling you can get out. If you do it after its been sealed up, use grease on bits and get all the chips .....also, tap it for a 3/8-16. Use a gear case drain plug (marinas,walmart, etc) with a gasket...This way you can use a marine gear oil pump that'll screw right into diff making it easy as hell to service in the future. If you use a marine gear case plug make sure its not for a Japanese engine as they are metric.....good luck!
Chase all of the threaded bores in the differential and consider replacing bolts with conventional bolts. The originals are a 'tri-sided' fabrication for self threading for the original assembly. Twist them in your fingers and it's 'obvious'!!
Some sort of RTV sealer - original was a red variation of GMS
Bolts are likely M10x1.5 and 30 or 35mm long. Check the depth. Some have used studs and nuts, we've used 12 point bolts.
Chase all of the threaded bores in the differential and consider replacing bolts with conventional bolts. The originals are a 'tri-sided' fabrication for self threading for the original assembly. Twist them in your fingers and it's 'obvious'!!
Some sort of RTV sealer - original was a red variation of GMS
Bolts are likely M10x1.5 and 30 or 35mm long. Check the depth. Some have used studs and nuts, we've used 12 point bolts.
Sounds like time for my favorite default bolt - 12 point polished stainless ARP.
Sounds like time for my favorite default bolt - 12 point polished stainless ARP.
If you go SS use a little grease on threads. I use ARP 12 pt SS on everything but I always use a little grease on threads. I'm a Marine mechanic and its common practice to do this.. you'll never have an issue with galling, even though I've never had an issue with ARP.
On the inside of the back cover ( batwing ) there are machined surfaces that will support the bearing caps. A gasket will create a gap and remove this support.
On the inside of the back cover ( batwing ) there are machined surfaces that will support the bearing caps. A gasket will create a gap and remove this support.
D44 to batwing assembly - gasket?
