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Dash Cluster LED replacement (Need help) (1985 C4)
Hello! I currently am replacing the instrument cluster with LED bulbs following batee's guide. I am having an issue getting the connect on the left side of the top board to disconnect from the bottom. Picture attached below. Any advice would be highly appreciated! Bottom left connector is giving me grief
Hello! I currently am replacing the instrument cluster with LED bulbs following batee's guide. I am having an issue getting the connect on the left side of the top board to disconnect from the bottom. Picture attached below. Any advice would be highly appreciated! Bottom left connector is giving me grief
I took a quick look at the BATEE video for this. It apears this connector is a "through board" connector. This means that straight pins protruding from the bottom come up THROUGH the holes in this PCB and into that connector. All that should be required is pulling straight up, but after the pins have been seated for years and developed some oxidation, they are probably wanting to stay in place. If you look at about the 2:54 mark in this video you can see how he recommends using somethign soft and non-conductive (like the vinyl coated handles of some pliers) to pry the connector up off the pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFkK...ature=youtu.be
Just took the cluster appart on my 84 last week. It does just separate, but it's probably stuck together pretty good by now as long as it's been together. Mine took a lot of effort to pop loose, just be patient and be very careful that you aren't bending or prying against anything important. I was able to get mine appart by slowly pushing and wiggling the connector away from the bottom board.
Im not sure if you are planning on replacing the connector, but he sells a fairly inexpensive replacement. I'm doing mine as I'd rather not have to force the old connections back together.
Last edited by Yinzcity; Dec 15, 2020 at 03:04 PM.
I took a quick look at the BATEE video for this. It apears this connector is a "through board" connector. This means that straight pins protruding from the bottom come up THROUGH the holes in this PCB and into that connector. All that should be required is pulling straight up, but after the pins have been seated for years and developed some oxidation, they are probably wanting to stay in place. If you look at about the 2:54 mark in this video you can see how he recommends using somethign soft and non-conductive (like the vinyl coated handles of some pliers) to pry the connector up off the pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFkK...ature=youtu.be
That would make sense, it's strange as they don't seem very oxidized looking in. Going to give pliers a try again (the rubber backing) but it is extremely tight even when attempting those. Hopefully not risk of damaging the boards with too much pressure
Just took the cluster appart on my 84 last week. It does just separate, but it's probably stuck together pretty good by now as long as it's been together. Mine took a lot of effort to pop loose, just be patient and be very careful that you aren't bending or prying against anything important. I was able to get mine appart by slowly pushing and wiggling the connector away from the bottom board.
Im not sure if you are planning on replacing the connector, but he sells a fairly inexpensive replacement. I'm doing mine as I'd rather not have to force the old connections back together.
This may end up being my only choice once I hopefully am able to get it open without damaging the board. I assume you would just resolder the new pins from the bottom?
This may end up being my only choice once I hopefully am able to get it open without damaging the board. I assume you would just resolder the new pins from the bottom?
That would be my assumption, I've yet to tackle mine. It's a through hole connection and they're spaced pretty far appart, so I don't think it's going to be to hard. If you go this route though, there is a specific type of solder to use. Apparently the new lead free stuff doesn't play well with the old boards. Batee includes it in their $30 connector kit, but I'm sure you can find the same elsewhere too.
That would be my assumption, I've yet to tackle mine. It's a through hole connection and they're spaced pretty far appart, so I don't think it's going to be to hard. If you go this route though, there is a specific type of solder to use. Apparently the new lead free stuff doesn't play well with the old boards. Batee includes it in their $30 connector kit, but I'm sure you can find the same elsewhere too.
Actually managed to get them seperated and bulbs replaced! In my brilliance I installed it back in the dash before double checking that the turn signals worked, so now time to pull it out again. Live and you learn!
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