EGR removal, some questions!
So I have a 454 in my 1984 Corvette... goes like stink
More info on the engine (once I looked in the right place for engine#) T1019TXB (L-19 1989), it has had a change of cam and better heads fitted. there is NO smog pump
Of course if you get a car for peanuts then there will be some issues!
One of the things that bothers me is the radiator cap is lower than the intake - no real way to fill the system correctly. As I started to rectify the issue by adding a filler to replace the standard thermostat housing I came across a couple of issues (see pictures), these are that the EGR is in the way - so it needs to be removed - the other is the alternator and AC braces - but this is purely mechanical and 'just' needs a new bracket.
Here is where I need help, I have read many many different posts on many different forums...
There are soooo many different views on this I decided to ask you guys for the final say on the matter.
I will remove the EGR and the vacuum pipe, I will also remove the attached Relay and vacuum
Q1, I have read that if put a resister across the wires to the relay it will stop any engine lights - is this true? if so which of the 3 wires to I add the resister across.
There are Vacuum pipes going to the AIR tank located at the front drivers side corner - I may as well remove this according to a lot of the forums
Q2, Is this worth doing, and if so any directions?
I would also like to remove the none functional AC - does anybody have a link to a idler I can replace it with?
Thanks
Steve
Last edited by stevewarden0; Dec 20, 2020 at 04:50 PM. Reason: More Info
Appears you're running
Last edited by stew86MCSS396; Dec 21, 2020 at 08:56 PM.
Putting a diode in that line couldn't hurt either.
The idea is that whenever the ECM sends the EGR command to the activator that signal is immediately sent back to the sensor port, thus avoiding an EGR error condition.
Reason for the diode is because there is batt. voltage across the EGR solenoid until the ECM pulls one side to ground and you do not want batt. voltage on the EGR diagnostic input of the ECM.
This info reflects the wiring for my '88/'89 Vettes, best to verify EGR operation & wiring for your '94.













