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You took used washers and sprayed them with Dupont Teflon? Wonder if I can just remove mine, clean them, spray them and reinstall them?
I don't know how long it will last but what can it hurt? I took some fine sandpaper and smoothed out the surface and then sprayed multiple coats of the Teflon allowing each coat to dry overnight.
You took used washers and sprayed them with Dupont Teflon? Wonder if I can just remove mine, clean them, spray them and reinstall them?
I did the same. Cleaned the up with fine sandpaper, heated them a little bit with a torch and then coated them multiple times. I also coated the mating surfaces, axle stubs and inside of the wheel bearings. Only about 600 miles on them so far but no more creaking sounds.
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At very low speeds, I have a clicking sound in the left rear of my car. My first thought was a pebble/something in that brake pad -- hitting once per wheel revolution. (That's about the rythym it "clicks". Is this the teflon washer?
At very low speeds, I have a clicking sound in the left rear of my car. My first thought was a pebble/something in that brake pad -- hitting once per wheel revolution. (That's about the rythym it "clicks". Is this the teflon washer?
I seriously doubt it. The classic symptom of failing washers is a "pop" or "snap" sound when the torque on the rear wheels changes direction. This is a result of the ability of the axle to move rotationally within the hub. The axle's external splines are not an interference fit within the hub's internal splines. In the absence of adequate friction, the splines can rotate relative to each other a small amount until they make contact with each other. This will typically occur when shifting from driving the car forward to driving it in reverse, or vice versa. It can also appear when alternating between accelerating and decelerating while the manual transmission is in gear. This should be a one-time occurrence per change in torque direction, rather than once-per-rotation of the wheel. It typically starts out being very slight, often sounding like more of a "click", but becoming louder and harsher as the wear on the washer continues.
I have always wondered about the coating on these washers, specifically what it actually is. I've never had a solid understanding of whether those washers are intended to prevent relative movement between the axle and hub, or to restrict movement so that it can occur, but only so slowly that no slap is audible when that movement occurs. Honestly, although they've been referred to as Teflon washers here for decades, I'm not yet convinced that's what the coating is.
I have some virgin washers stashed away, and would be happy to generate accurate mechanical drawings of them, if anybody would like to investigate getting a batch of them fabricated.
There are 'short run' metal stamping manufacturers that could actually do these 'start to finish' if you could provide a print and specifications.
I'm actually somewhat surprised that one of the 'Licensed' (they say) GM Restoration Parts Vendors haven't released these. Is it actually 'Teflon®' ? There could actually be better products these days I'd think.
BTW - damn nice B!
Interesting Rotisserie - your creation from scratch?
Wheel Spindle Washer #14076924 size:
58mm O.D. (2.288")
33.5mm I.D. (1.318")
Thickness is .034 to .060 to bellied out center
I've read that some suggest greasing the splines in the hub and/or the spindle to mitigate the "pop or snap". And the best suggestion I read was a member that uses anti-seize lube on the splines. I agree that this will help the problem somewhat, since the 'play' or lash in the spindle/hub spline connection is the actual cause of the problem. The "pop or snap" heard is the shearing force of the hardened faces of the yoke shoulder and the hub bearing. We know of the current discussions regarding the proposed increase torque of the spindle nut to 200ft.lbs. These two hardened machined surfaces are under terrific torque, and whenever the engine overcomes that torque...there's going to be an audible 'pop' when the splines engage and the two surfaces slip.
There's no getting around that the hardened teflon coated washer eliminates this design flaw by allowing the two torqued surfaces to quietly slip.
I've read that some suggest greasing the splines in the hub and/or the spindle to mitigate the "pop or snap". And the best suggestion I read was a member that uses anti-seize lube on the splines. I agree that this will help the problem somewhat, since the 'play' or lash in the spindle/hub spline connection is the actual cause of the problem. The "pop or snap" heard is the shearing force of the hardened faces of the yoke shoulder and the hub bearing. We know of the current discussions regarding the proposed increase torque of the spindle nut to 200ft.lbs. These two hardened machined surfaces are under terrific torque, and whenever the engine overcomes that torque...there's going to be an audible 'pop' when the splines engage and the two surfaces slip.
There's no getting around that the hardened teflon coated washer eliminates this design flaw by allowing the two torqued surfaces to quietly slip.
Many years ago when I did my halfshaft ujoints and new hubs. I bought new washers. And at the time some suggested to coat the washers and splines with anti-seize. And that's what I did. I have no idea if you took an old washer and coated it with anti-seize if that would achieve the same purpose as new teflon coated washers?
There's no getting around that the hardened teflon coated washer eliminates this design flaw by allowing the two torqued surfaces to quietly slip.
I'm reading this thread and wondering if PTFE washers would work, or do they have to have some support? Do they have to be hardened steel? Or what about powder coat?
Bump to the top. Is anybody serious about trying to get some of these washers fabricated?
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I'm going to ask around and see what I can do to have some made since there seems to be a demand ffor them. It would be nice if I had a sample that I could look at or possibly send to a possible vendor for final "quote". Maybe I can get my hands on some used ones.
They are stamped and formed. I don't think you will like the quote you will get to build the tooling. The best bet would be to attempt contacting the different vendors and see where they got them from and then see if another run could be consigned.
Here's a drawing I whipped up. You can trust the ID, OD and thickness dimensions. The .152 diameter (ID of flat surface) is as best could be measured with a dial caliper, and should be adequate. The radius .02 was derived as best I could using AutoCAD to lay in a fixed radius between the ID of the washer, and the inner edge of the flat surface. I can't guarantee that it is a fixed radius on the washer, but it probably doesn't make much difference. This thing will deform, if required, when the axle nut is torqued.
Base material, hardness, and coating material (is it really Teflon?) should be verified somehow.
It is. With the supercharger it is making 535 fwhp and 550 fwtq and it is significantly lighter than a C4
I was ready to make a tool to punch and form the washers but encountered a couple problems. First was finding high carbon steel sheet in the proper thickness without having to do a mill run. Second was getting them heat treated to make them hard in small batches. Third was finding a shop that did Teflon coating that was willing to do small runs with the process development that would be required. With those hurdles, it didn't make any sense for me to make a stamping tool.
I just took the two used washers that Big Bill graciously sent me and spray them with several coats of Dupont Teflon spray that I got on Amazon and install them. I don't have a lot of miles on them but there have been no issues - time will tell.
Thank you very much Bill
sorry to bring this thread back from the dead. But exactly WHERE are these Teflon coated washers located? Are they located between the hub and the knuckle? Or are they on the inner side of the knuckle on the spline itself inside?
I'm replacing my hub, and I have this washer that is sharp as a razor, fits perfect in the old hub, but does not fit flush in the new one and appears like it would do nothing I. The new hub... So I'm wondering if this is even the right washer..
I have the FSM, and have seen that diagram. It is the reason i am asking the question. I removed my hub, and I had nothing the size of that washer on the hub, it is 100% never have been removed before as well.
does this washer go up against the hub itself in front of the knuckle or up against the spindle behind the kuckle?
From what I recall, the washer goes on the spindle #19. I believe it goes on the spindle before pushing it into the wheel hub. I believe the washer is #32 in the PDF. Though the washer goes on a certain way as the washer is curved. I believe I spread a thin layer of antisieze on mine as I had read of the teflon wearing off as the washer is supposed to slide a little.
From what I recall, the washer goes on the spindle #19. I believe it goes on the spindle before pushing it into the wheel hub. I believe the washer is #32 in the PDF.
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