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Weird load-dependent low-coolant light 1988

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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 09:45 PM
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Default Weird load-dependent low-coolant light 1988

My car started getting a momentary low coolant light around corners. I replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, flushed filled and burped. Now it gives me a low coolant light on the highway, and when running the AC and it hits 195 or so. Yet when I burped it at 2000 rpm for 15 minutes with the engine reaching high temperatures, there was no light. Same with driving around town and hard accelerations.

The water pump appears to be leaking. Could it be that the water pump can’t provide a high enough rate of coolant flow? What do you think? Cools extremely well, even with the low coolant light on.

1988 C4
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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 10:26 PM
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If the water pump is leaking through its bleed hole, it's due for replacement. I'm not sure that will help, but it would make sense to do that before troubleshooting too much.

Do you know where the coolant level sensor is? That could help with troubleshooting; IIRC it's in the main reservoir.

Is it possible the system isn't holding pressure?
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 12:12 AM
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The sensor is on the radiator no? I could see air entering the block and hitting the sensor as it hits the suction side of the radiator... if you have a leak that will do it depending on how bad it is.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 84 4+3
The sensor is on the radiator no? I could see air entering the block and hitting the sensor as it hits the suction side of the radiator... if you have a leak that will do it depending on how bad it is.
I think the coolant level sender is on the surge tank, IIRC. The one near the firewall and not the nose of the car.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 84 4+3
The sensor is on the radiator no? I could see air entering the block and hitting the sensor as it hits the suction side of the radiator... if you have a leak that will do it depending on how bad it is.
It is on the radiator on my 89. I believe the 88 is the same.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kenmohr
It is on the radiator on my 89. I believe the 88 is the same.
My bad. 90 and up is in the tank.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 01:26 AM
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My '88 has the sensor in the RH side of the radiator, below the filler neck.

After the system is warm, visually check coolant level.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 06:59 AM
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I'd check that the overflow level is increasing when the car is hot to verify the system is pressurizing.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
I'd check that the overflow level is increasing when the car is hot to verify the system is pressurizing.

I haven’t observed the level increase. In fact it’s dropped a little bit since I last filled it.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Gurumeditation
I haven’t observed the level increase. In fact it’s dropped a little bit since I last filled it.
Unless it is burping, it may be a sign of a leak? R4un a pressure test and see.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gurumeditation
I haven’t observed the level increase. In fact it’s dropped a little bit since I last filled it.
Just to make sure we're on the same page: When the car is cold, the overflow tank should be full to the "cold" mark on the dipstick. When it heats up, coolant should be forced into that tank, raising the level to the "hot" mark. If the level is not rising as the car heats up (and going back down as the car cools), you are likely not holding coolant pressure. This would indicate a leak somewhere.

This leak could be either sucking air in or allowing coolant to boil. Either case could have the result of gas reaching the coolant temp sensor, causing your light to illuminate.

Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Jan 19, 2021 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:18 PM
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If the WP weeps, it must be replaced. I'd recommend a Stewart. Do that first. Fill the system, burp it correctly and I'd go ahead and put a new cap on it.

The coolant level sensor is just below the radiator cap, so if its under load you're low on coolant and its being sucked through by the WP into the engine and below that sensor level of the radiator. Just like it does when you give it throttle to burp it properly when the t-stat opens, it gets pulled down, then you fill to the top, then cap it. Then make sure the overflow tank has the right level in it.

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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 08:26 PM
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Default 1987 Chevy Corvette

Originally Posted by Gurumeditation
My car started getting a momentary low coolant light around corners. I replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, flushed filled and burped. Now it gives me a low coolant light on the highway, and when running the AC and it hits 195 or so. Yet when I burped it at 2000 rpm for 15 minutes with the engine reaching high temperatures, there was no light. Same with driving around town and hard accelerations.

The water pump appears to be leaking. Could it be that the water pump can’t provide a high enough rate of coolant flow? What do you think? Cools extremely well, even with the low coolant light on.

1988 C4
Hello, I would buy a new water pump but make sure the lower water hose isn't leaking which looks like its the water pump. If the coolant light still keeps coming on it might be a faulty sensor.

Last edited by craig argiro; Jan 19, 2021 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 09:54 PM
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Thanks for your thoughts guys.


I think it’s the water pump now. Low coolant light came on after a hard acceleration earlier and now there’s a new wet spot around the weep hole.

By chance would anyone know a good mechanic for old C4s north of Tampa, around Hernando County?
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 10:00 PM
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Hopefully the pump solves it.
Had similar issues with the lght, head gasket was leaking slowly.
One day after parking it the lower hose blew off, full of combustion gases.
Fixed that, water pump seal went. TPI cars with 113 heads are known for this.
Not the end of the world, just not convenient.

Dump your oil when the engine is cold, see what comes out.
Removing the plugs then pressurizing your cooling system will give answers also

Last edited by cv67; Jan 20, 2021 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 10:06 AM
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If you have any interest in doing it yourself, water pump isn't a terrible job. You just have to (off the top of my head):
  • Drain the coolant.
  • Take the intake bellows off to get it out of the way.
  • Crack the water pump pulley bolts loose.
  • Take the belt off.
  • Take the water pump pulley off.
  • Throw a pan underneath to catch drips.
  • Take the hoses off the water pump. Potentially the hardest part unless you're the Hulk. They can really get stuck tight. Twisting the hose on the connection with a pair of channel locks breaks them loose fairly well.
  • Unbolt the water pump from the block.
  • Everything above but in reverse. You might consider replacing the hose clamps on the water pump with some nice ones (like Breeze constant torque clamps). A little pricey, but mine leaks there, so I wish I'd done this.
I know not everyone likes/wants to work on cars, but just giving you the option.
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 03:18 PM
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I learned from a simple radiator job becoming a giant pain that I have to take something like this to a mechanic.


Any ideas of what else I should have them do while they’re in there (like the heater hose to heater core etc)? It’s an 120k mile car.
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Gurumeditation
I learned from a simple radiator job becoming a giant pain that I have to take something like this to a mechanic.


Any ideas of what else I should have them do while they’re in there (like the heater hose to heater core etc)? It’s an 120k mile car.
No judgment, I feel ya

Heater core is inside the dash; hope it never needs to be replaced. There's nothing else that is really easier to do at the same time, but I believe people typically replace the thermostat when they do their water pump. The thermostat is right on top of the intake, only needs 2 bolts removed to replace, and is not expensive. I think the factory thermostat opened at 190°; if you race the car you might consider a colder thermostat, but for a daily the 190° is going to be better for your engine's health (lets the oil get up to temp to boil off water).
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 09:12 PM
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So at this point the light doesn’t come on anymore, not even on highway driving. The water pump has a weird dark spot on the front top of it, but it’s dry and doesn’t seem to be leaking coolant (I used UV dye).


I’m not getting the water pump replaced now. It must have bled itself I guess. I ended up bleeding it with the AC running at the same time and that must have helped it I guess.
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 11:16 PM
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I'll pass along my issue and something that may be helpful. Exact same symptoms with the light going on and off. Turned out to be the hose between the water pump and the TPI had a crack in it and it was leaking once to temp.
Now for the suggestions: get a pressure tester and pressurize the cooling system to about 15 pounds and see if it holds or not. Likely won't, so listen and look under the hood for the leak. Now for something else I found. If you use the lemon-lime color antifreeze like Prestone, it fluoresces under a black light. You can see the tracks where it's leaking, do it in a dark area to make it more visible.

Good luck.
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