My 84/auto has been running fing since I changed the 2 u joints on the left half shaft, but now it's stuck in first gear and when I turn the car it shudders and clunks violently!!!! I was on the highway this morning and it was great, even the kikdown was functioning. I drove to my bro in laws house fine and when we left it was okay. But 8 minutes up the road all this started happening? I hope some one can shed some(non expensive please) light on this latest problem. I did have a similer problem a few months ago where it was stuck in first because the cable bracket was missing a bolt and kinking the cable, but I have reverse and park aswell this time so I don't see it being that simple.

GOD I DON'T NEED THIS NOW!!!!!

Wedge. :( :cuss :mad

 

the u joints came apart it sounds like. get that thing back up in the air and do some inspection.

 

I agree with gtsyellow here. Check all the obvious things and if the problem seems to be something to do with the trans I will try to help. I rebuilt a 700R4 last summer and learned a few things first hand about that trans in terms of reliability since it was out of my own truck with 225k miles on it. It doesn't seem like the trans in your case because of the different sounds created while turning. A tip 4 most people with a 700R4 or its electronic counterpart (e.g. all C4 auto's) is to remark your dipstick when you do that next trans service so the top fill mark is level with the gasket surface of the trans pan. The stock fill marks on the dip sticks dont allow enough fluid for that transmission. Rebuilders recommend running the fluid level even with the pan gasket surface to help the trans live longer. Also don't forget any recommended GM additives because my clutch drum seals had the texture of dried gooey gummy bears. :thumbs:

 

Talked to the guy who rebuilt the trans and he believes the problem to be the govenor or the detent cable, but more than likely the govenor because its what controls the shifts. I really hope that is all it turns out to be, I guess I'll let you guys know what it turns out to be.

Wedge. :confused:

 

While I'm at it, has anybody changed or have instructions on how to change the govenor? I'm not sure if its in my Chiltons book or not because its locked in the car 20 kms away from me.

Wedge. :confused:

 

1.) Raise and support vehicle
2.) Remove complete exhaust system.
3.) Remove governor cover from case using extreme care not to damage cover. If cover is damaged, it should be replaced.
4.) Remove governor.
5.) Reverse procedure to install and check fluid level.

This procedure is not in Chiltons or Haynes. You need to get a shop manual.

I thought you might be interested in the following, not sure which tranny you have though...it's for 82-91 Corvettes and I got it from Alldata.

**********
Some HYDRA-MATIC 4L60/700-R4 transmissions may experience a "no upshift" or "stuck in first gear" condition. This may be caused by the input carrier to output shaft retaining ring coming unseated, or retaining ring omitted during assembly. This can allow the output shaft to move slightly, and cause wear on the governor gear (the governor gear ON THE GOVERNOR, not the governor drive gear on the output shaft). The governor gear wear may be described as an "apple cored" condition. If the governor gear is worn, the transmission cannot upshift out of first gear.

Service Information:

Remove the governor and inspect the governor gear. If it is "apple cored", disassemble the transmission and look for the presence of the input carrier to output shaft retaining ring.

^ If the retaining ring is missing, replace it, but make sure the original retaining ring is not broken and stuck inside the transmission.

^ If the retaining ring has become unseated, replace the retaining ring with a new one since the original has probably been over-expanded.

When installing a new retaining ring, be careful not to over-expand the retaining ring.

Service Parts Information:

The input carrier to output shaft retaining ring is available in several packages through GMSPO. It is included in the snap ring package, overhaul repair components package, and overhaul seals and gasket package.

Service Manual References:

Reference the Automatic Transmission Unit Repair Section of the appropriate service manual for retaining ring installation information.

**********

Hope this helps a little... :cheers:

 

Thanks man:cheers: , that really sounds like what is happening. I noticed it said nothing about clunking and banging in turns, I hope/wonder if that is caused by fluid slosh causing the gov gear to slip in and out of place allowing what teeth might be left to engage and dis engage 2nd gear for a split second?

Now if I could only get the car to work to tear into it.

Wedge. :chevy :chevy

 

This is an update I posted on the crossfire forum.


I got the car up to work on friday, and put it up in the air on saturday. When I got the govenor out it was just what I had expected, it was 'apple cored' thus not allowing the trans to upshift. 1/2 hour and $10 later I had a new gear om the govenor. I put it all back together and the car now shifts fine(I think) but.... I still have very violent clunking and banging if I start to turn the car? I am at a loss on this and I really hope its not the rear going now, not a week before christmas. Could the be a u/j seizing under torsional load? If it is the rear how hard to replace?

Wedge.:confused: :confused: :confused:

 

This bit of info was posted by another member of the crossfire forum does this ring a bell with anyone?

"I think GM had a recall for the spider gear shaft coming loose-maybe a dealer still honors that safety problem?"

I don't know which end of the car to look at, I've fixed the govenor gear tranny now shifts but when the clunking and shuddering starts the tranny starts shifting very hard into drive and reverse?

Wedge.

 

I just posted this on the Crossfire forum but I'll post it here to in case anybody has some good Ideas Thanks.

Have narrowed the problem down(finally!!!)to the diff. What a total pissoff, just before Christmas. I'm wondering if we can put an empty posi case in the diff for now and just have a 'one legger' vette untill I can afford to do the job properly. Another idea I had was to somehow join the inner yokes together and make a very narrow solid/independant rear axle? Has anybody done somthing like this?

Wedge.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

 

Whatever you do, do not try to make a solid axle because if you don't break something every time you turn the car you will definately wear the tires out faster than you could ever believe not to mention the chirping sounds every time you turn. One legger vette? I don't know maybe it will work. If I might suggest, why not see if anyone might have a Dana upgrade for sale in the C4 parts for sale section. If you change the ratio the car will take off like a bullet but it will loose top speed. Who ever goes top speed anyway?

 

I had to buy a new car(99 Escort 49,000 km $11k) just so I could get to work!!! But atleast with the vette off the road I will be able to fix it better if I don't have to worry about hurrying to get to work the next morning, and I should save a fortune in gas too!!. If anybody has a spare auto diff for sale I could use one.

Wedge. :cheers:

 

'99 Escort :eek: 11k...you could have bought another Vette for a daily driver. :D Just kidding...hopefully you can get your Vette back on the road soon! Then sell the Escort and get some serious mods with the proceeds :cheers:


[Modified by Hardcorvette, 10:28 AM 12/27/2002]

 

It's gonna take me 5 years to pay the darn thing off!!!!:skep: As far as buying another vette, any vette that sells for $11000 CDN is going to be in just as bad a shape as mine:( and right now I'm just a little bit fed up with being raped by my car :eek: :crazy: I will try and fix her back up over the next few months, but money is the big problem, up here, everything is about double and a bit the prices you guys pay!!!!:nopity

Wedge. :cheers: :chevy