355 or 383
We had the same exact problem when we put the hot cam in my Dad's car. The hot cam install resulted in spun main bearings. Not sure why but most likely it was due to not priming the engine after the cam change.
We were considering rebuilding the block as a 383 or 396 as well. But since the motor was an LT4 and we liked the uniqueness of the LT4, I decided to take a risk and just repair the crank while leaving the pistons in the block.
In this manner, I didn't have to take the heads off the car, or remove the pistons from the block. The risk was monetarially small, just the cost of reconditioning the crank and the cost of some gaskets and of course lots of my time. We decided to take the risk.
First challenge was to get the crank out of block without pulling out the pistons. This wasn't too difficult. I put covers over the rod bolts and with the help of a buddy the crank comes out pretty easily with the pistons and rods still in the block. Our next hurdle was the condition of the mains and all of the main saddles looked OK. Next the crank went to the machine shop and he was able to recondition it for $150. Cleaning out all the metal shavings out of the block from the spun bearing was tedious but successful (I used lots of kerosene to flush the motor). Finally the crank was reinstalled and the clearances were all within spec. I primed the hell out of the motor this time, reinstalled the motor, crossed my fingers and all was well! The car has been running this way for over two years now.
Sooo, if your motor has low miles and your main saddles aren't too scarred up then it might be salvagable for a minimal outlay of cash but a lot of your time. On the other hand, if you are just itching to build a stroker motor then by all means have at it!!
(and a bore hone, deck, and the usual 'proper' machinework to make it 'right'.

Also when you say near bullet proof do you mean the cast 383 you have suggested or stepping up to a forged.
[Modified by keekster, 5:38 AM 12/15/2002]











