My apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere. I did a search with no luck. Last year my PKE worked flawlessly. When I left the car the doors locked and the horn sounded. Near the end of the year it stopped working. I put it away for the winter and have just taken it out. I have tried to reprogram the PKE. I get the PKE light to flash on the DIC. When I bring the transmitter into range the light does not go solid. It flashes twice...as in...<blink> <blink> stop <blink> <blink>.
Any ideas?

 

You should never need to reprogram the fob, unless you are introducing a new fob. To bring up the obvious, you didn't mention putting a new battery in the fob. Did you? I think I remember that it needs to have at least 3.1 v to work well.

 

Yes to the new battery

 

Sounds like a problem with the keyfob. Which battery holder design to you have in yours? There are two (one original GM, one aftermarket).

If you have the one that uses a plastic arm on one side to hold the battery in, it may not be able to hold the battery in properly. This is because the battery that GM intended to be used in the keyfob has not been made in a long time (it was a Sanyo CR2450, and had a depressed lip around the outer edge that that plastic arm clipped onto). So if you've replaced the battery, that's probably the culprit. You can shim the arm to force it to clip on by placing a small piece of plastic (such as from a zip-tie) behind it, but this will eventually overstress the arm and cause it to snap. Instead, on mine, I just placed a coin on top of the battery and carefully snapped the case back shut again. The fob's case then presses down on the coin and forces the battery to stay in place.

If it's the newer aftermarket type that has the little metal "forks" on one side and the underside, first make sure you're using the correct battery (Renata CR2450N). Then very carefully bend the bottom forks upward slightly, and bend the side forks inward slightly. Over time the forks can lose a little tension which means they stop touching the battery, causing intermittent function. Bending them back out fixes that right up.

Good luck!

 

It turned out to be a finger problem. Last year I must have inadvertantly disabled the PKE. Today I played around and found the solution. Holding the button in on the fob for 5 seconds locked and unlocked the door and activated the PKE system. Programming went as expected after that.

 

That is incredibly odd. Programming should work regardless of whether the system is armed or not. In addition, the 'two blink' means it's waiting for the second keyfob to be inputted, suggesting the first was already successfully programmed. Perhaps you never actually moved the keyfob far enough out of range when doing the programming cycle the first time around.

Anyway, hey, glad you got it working and that it was something simple.

 

There was no need to reprogram the fob, if it turned the system back on it was already programmed. Didn't you try pushing the door button before trying to reprogram? That would have unlocked the pass. door and indicated it was still programmed.