Lost keys on '89. Options???
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Lost keys on '89. Options???
We got an '89 for our 13 yr old grandson yesterday from a friend who'd had it since 90's and parked it in 2003. Their house burned to the ground in a fire 3 years ago and the keys were lost. I've done a search here and it looks like the posts I found were 15 or more years old and most seemed to suggest dealership involvement, but I've got my doubts as to today's service departments being stocked with techs that could or would help with the problem on a 32 yr old car. So what are the current options on getting it going again?
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We got an '89 for our 13 yr old grandson yesterday from a friend who'd had it since 90's and parked it in 2003. Their house burned to the ground in a fire 3 years ago and the keys were lost. I've done a search here and it looks like the posts I found were 15 or more years old and most seemed to suggest dealership involvement, but I've got my doubts as to today's service departments being stocked with techs that could or would help with the problem on a 32 yr old car. So what are the current options on getting it going again?
For an '89 if it hasn't been tampered with would still have a VATS requirement. A door key code can be recovered from the storage compartment lock cylinder I believe still.
Is it an A/T or a manual 6 speed? It will matter.
I'd think the owner might know if VATS had been 'defeated' or not. An '89 in '03 it might be assumed to have been 'defeated'! One could hope!! Would make life much easier!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 28, 2021 at 03:13 PM.
Drifting
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From: Tacoma WA
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Unless someone has a solution you can always get a new ignition lock with keys and a VATS override kit. You will then have to try each of the 15 resisters in the kit to see which one is correct for the car.
That is a great thing you are doing to get your grandson involved with Corvettes at a young age.
That is a great thing you are doing to get your grandson involved with Corvettes at a young age.
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I also found an old discussion from 2012 on replacing the ignition lock cylinder and it looks to be very complex, even mentioning part that are generally broken in the process due to being old & brittle. Is there no alternative for removing the cylinder other than disassembly of the whole upper part of the column? (this is why all of my Corvettes are 1970 and older and the '70 and '69's seem to be much simpler under the wheel)
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I also found an old discussion from 2012 on replacing the ignition lock cylinder and it looks to be very complex, even mentioning part that are generally broken in the process due to being old & brittle. Is there no alternative for removing the cylinder other than disassembly of the whole upper part of the column? (this is why all of my Corvettes are 1970 and older and the '70 and '69's seem to be much simpler under the wheel)
And you answered 'NO QUESTIONS' answering the questions would get you maybe some practical advice! I know what I'd do but you haven't answered the question A/T or M6 manual!
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I had an '87 convertible I bought new and then a 90 ZR1 and 90 Callaway together and I can't remember about the VATS on any of the 3.
Last edited by Solidlifters; Mar 28, 2021 at 02:51 PM.
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That requires a very expensive cylinder so I'd reach out to a couple 'local' locksmiths and see if they might be able to help. There are those that can, could if they wanted to or maybe just aren't interested. Does the owner know if VATS might have been 'defeated' at one time? If not that same locksmith should/might have a VATS Interrogator that could make the 'crank' much easier.
The price of the ignition cylinder and then keys is expensive enough that you could pay a 'higher fee' and actually see considerable savings if a 'local' locksmith could help. The door key isn't an issue.
An '89 cylinder is pretty straight forward replacement and dependent on 'car condition' consider having it replaced on a 'road call'!
The price of the ignition cylinder and then keys is expensive enough that you could pay a 'higher fee' and actually see considerable savings if a 'local' locksmith could help. The door key isn't an issue.
An '89 cylinder is pretty straight forward replacement and dependent on 'car condition' consider having it replaced on a 'road call'!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 28, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
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From: Northeast Ohio
It seems to me that:
1. We need a key to turn that ignition cylinder. Either find a local locksmith that can make one (they will be able to determine which blank to start with and then will be able to try the key, observe the witness marks on the key blank, file the key some, and repeat until the key turns the cylinder)...or install a new cylinder (it will come with a matching key). Same choices for the door key.
As WVZR-1 stated, it will be worth your time to search for the right locksmith first. One time, back in my silly teenager years, I lost my keys while on a canoe trip. Fortunately we didn't drive to the river in my 69 Mustang...it was back in town, locksmith meets me at the parking lot where I had met my canoe trip friends, I show him my license and title, and he knocked out a key in 15 minutes!
New cylinders:
ignition: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending
note: I see that ADO-D1453C has a note that it is for manual trans
doors: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...model/corvette
2. Either way, the new key will not have a pellet resistor, so now VATS will have to be bypassed. This method should work:
1. We need a key to turn that ignition cylinder. Either find a local locksmith that can make one (they will be able to determine which blank to start with and then will be able to try the key, observe the witness marks on the key blank, file the key some, and repeat until the key turns the cylinder)...or install a new cylinder (it will come with a matching key). Same choices for the door key.
As WVZR-1 stated, it will be worth your time to search for the right locksmith first. One time, back in my silly teenager years, I lost my keys while on a canoe trip. Fortunately we didn't drive to the river in my 69 Mustang...it was back in town, locksmith meets me at the parking lot where I had met my canoe trip friends, I show him my license and title, and he knocked out a key in 15 minutes!
New cylinders:
ignition: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending
note: I see that ADO-D1453C has a note that it is for manual trans
doors: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...model/corvette
2. Either way, the new key will not have a pellet resistor, so now VATS will have to be bypassed. This method should work:
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If you decided to replace the cylinder I'd replace these upper column plastic pieces also GM# 9769448, 9768768, 7808385, 7849228. These would be considered reasonable maintenance if you were doing the cylinder I'd think. eBay should offer up reasonable images If the fellow doing the cylinder asked for more I'd buy him what he asked within reason. How many miles on this car?
If you call 'local' locksmiths ask if they have a VATS Interrogator. I'd think a big +. If you've a 'relationship' with a service/parts guy at a dealer speak to them regarding the VATS Interrogator.
If you call 'local' locksmiths ask if they have a VATS Interrogator. I'd think a big +. If you've a 'relationship' with a service/parts guy at a dealer speak to them regarding the VATS Interrogator.
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Maybe the NCM would have the correct key codes for the car ? I have had success with having dealerships cut keys to a specific VIN, but not on something that old. I would check with the local dealer just to see if they can do it, you will just have to prove ownership by showing a copy of the title in your name.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I'd have never figured it out without all the help from here. We got the new ignition key tumbler (Delco ordered from Summit) installed last night and waiting on the 15 resistor kit to get here to make friends with the VATS again. I did break a very brittle plastic piece right under the wheel that seemed to have square lugs around it, and since I'm not sure how to describe it or exactly what it does it makes a search hard.
On another note, not knowing how the telescoping part worked I bought the press tool to compress the spring and remove the clip on the steering column lock plate. It did help getting the clip off BUT it wasn't exactly a clean removal and the tool is useless for putting it back together due to the fact that the plate itself retains the key that restrains the center shaft. I'm very curious how it's supposed to be done. I'm sure GM didn't design it in a way that it took multiple people to push down on the plate with thumbs while the c clip was set, but can't imagine how a special tool could be constructed that would accomplish it.
On another note, not knowing how the telescoping part worked I bought the press tool to compress the spring and remove the clip on the steering column lock plate. It did help getting the clip off BUT it wasn't exactly a clean removal and the tool is useless for putting it back together due to the fact that the plate itself retains the key that restrains the center shaft. I'm very curious how it's supposed to be done. I'm sure GM didn't design it in a way that it took multiple people to push down on the plate with thumbs while the c clip was set, but can't imagine how a special tool could be constructed that would accomplish it.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I'd have never figured it out without all the help from here. We got the new ignition key tumbler (Delco ordered from Summit) installed last night and waiting on the 15 resistor kit to get here to make friends with the VATS again. I did break a very brittle plastic piece right under the wheel that seemed to have square lugs around it, and since I'm not sure how to describe it or exactly what it does it makes a search hard.
On another note, not knowing how the telescoping part worked I bought the press tool to compress the spring and remove the clip on the steering column lock plate. It did help getting the clip off BUT it wasn't exactly a clean removal and the tool is useless for putting it back together due to the fact that the plate itself retains the key that restrains the center shaft. I'm very curious how it's supposed to be done. I'm sure GM didn't design it in a way that it took multiple people to push down on the plate with thumbs while the c clip was set, but can't imagine how a special tool could be constructed that would accomplish it.
On another note, not knowing how the telescoping part worked I bought the press tool to compress the spring and remove the clip on the steering column lock plate. It did help getting the clip off BUT it wasn't exactly a clean removal and the tool is useless for putting it back together due to the fact that the plate itself retains the key that restrains the center shaft. I'm very curious how it's supposed to be done. I'm sure GM didn't design it in a way that it took multiple people to push down on the plate with thumbs while the c clip was set, but can't imagine how a special tool could be constructed that would accomplish it.
Info is all there.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 4, 2021 at 12:15 PM.
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In the above image, the aluminum colored sleeve of the tool screws over the shaft. The silver hex nut above the yoke is turned to depress the lock plate. If the black screw shaft turns, the screw-slot is used to hold the black screw stationary. Once compressed, the lock ring is worked onto the silver sleeve of the tool. It can stay there until it is pushed off the tool and back into its recess when the lock-plate is reinstalled.
I have the tool, but the problem is that the Corvette with it's telescoping column is not configured that way. Instead of the small clip it has a large u clip that's something like a small version of a rear axle clip in a Chevy 12 bolt. That clip also restrains the splined shaft that the steering wheel and it's nut mount to. In other words, the part of the shaft that the wheel attaches to slips in and out of the main column and has a large semi L shaped key that keeps it from coming out and the C clip retains this key that retains the shaft. So when using a tool similar to the one pictured it does in fact compress the plate well enough to start removing the clip, but once the clip comes out the center shaft flies off and the tool is useless to re install the clip because the shaft slides freely out with the clip gone and nothing to retain the shaft.
.
Last edited by Solidlifters; Apr 7, 2021 at 12:06 PM.
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Thank You for the clarification and feedback. I'll freely admit that I have never been into a 84-89 telescoping column, and I was totally ignorant regarding the differences the telescoping hardware make in the removal process.
I've been educated, which is why I participate on the forums. Now I understand. Thanks again.
I've been educated, which is why I participate on the forums. Now I understand. Thanks again.
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Dalton, that explains it. The only thing is that the star bolt in the middle would have to be replaced with something like a socket head (allen bolt) so the tool can still screw over the threads. That would make it very simple..