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My problem is when I put the trickle / maintainer charger on the battery the clamps on the charger keep popping off. The battery has side post connecters on both the car and battery. After connecting the cables from the car to the battery the bolt head only sticks out maybe a1/4"
So when I connect the charger clamps to the bolt heads it is a pain in the *** to keep them from popping off. I know I am not the only one that has experienced this problem and I am looking for ways to correct this issue, any suggestions.
Thank you in advance to all that reply.
My problem is when I put the trickle / maintainer charger on the battery the clamps on the charger keep popping off. The battery has side post connecters on both the car and battery. After connecting the cables from the car to the battery the bolt head only sticks out maybe a1/4"
So when I connect the charger clamps to the bolt heads it is a pain in the *** to keep them from popping off. I know I am not the only one that has experienced this problem and I am looking for ways to correct this issue, any suggestions.
Thank you in advance to all that reply.
Buy some 'charging posts' there's several!!! There are even S/T inserts that would substitute for the bolts in your cables. From GM they're no longer inexpensive but they are out there.
That one is the Schumacher brand. I added the lighter plug, using one that contains an internal fuse. I've modded at least a half-dozen similar tenders for myself, friends and family over the years. It makes connect/disconnect operations about as simple as can be, adds no permanent wiring to the vehicle, alters no wiring in the vehicle, and easily permits moving the tender from one vehicle to another. An additional benefit that I really like is that it makes it damned near foolproof, in that I'd have to be a bigger idiot than I think I am to forget to disconnect it before moving the car. I probably am enough of an idiot to forget to do that if I had it connected somehow under the hood.
Since the time I shot that photo, many years ago, I've extended the wiring between the unit and the lighter plug, such that I now hang the charger on the wall in my garage, drape the wires over a hook that's hanging from the garage door track, and then run it in through the open car window. It keeps the wiring totally out of the way so that I don't trip over it, etc, while it's connected.
Battery tender with quick disconnect is the way to go. I’m just trying to figure out where I want to route the leads so I don’t have to open the hood to connect. I’ve been too worried that anywhere accessible is also vulnerable to catching on something and getting torn out.
Battery tender with quick disconnect is the way to go. I’m just trying to figure out where I want to route the leads so I don’t have to open the hood to connect. I’ve been too worried that anywhere accessible is also vulnerable to catching on something and getting torn out.
I have a 3d printer and printed this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4050715) to secure the end of the disconnect. I placed it in the left wheel well, using one of the screws to secure it. Since the mount has a cap, it keeps the terminals clean when you're out driving around
Another option is a charger connector, which just goes between the battery post and cables, and just stays there. The one linked is just one example of many different types. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...y/btd0/0810069
Great solution on the 3D printed piece! Novak, I have that part, it’s just a matter of locating it, safely, so I don’t have to pop the hood to hookup. Not so much because of then inconvenience, but more so showing some mercy to the aging release cables.
That one is the Schumacher brand. I added the lighter plug, using one that contains an internal fuse. I've modded at least a half-dozen similar tenders for myself, friends and family over the years. It makes connect/disconnect operations about as simple as can be, adds no permanent wiring to the vehicle, alters no wiring in the vehicle, and easily permits moving the tender from one vehicle to another. An additional benefit that I really like is that it makes it damned near foolproof, in that I'd have to be a bigger idiot than I think I am to forget to disconnect it before moving the car. I probably am enough of an idiot to forget to do that if I had it connected somehow under the hood.
Since the time I shot that photo, many years ago, I've extended the wiring between the unit and the lighter plug, such that I now hang the charger on the wall in my garage, drape the wires over a hook that's hanging from the garage door track, and then run it in through the open car window. It keeps the wiring totally out of the way so that I don't trip over it, etc, while it's connected.
Live well,
SJW
Given the gravity of an error here, I'm double-checking that the red (positive) wire goes to the tip of the 12 plug, correct?
Yes, the center contact (tip) is hot (positive), the side contacts are ground (negative). You can verify this by probing the lighter socket with a volt meter. Center contact should show +12.6 VDC if the battery is fully charged.
FWIW, most decent maintenance chargers will not apply any current to the leads if they are cross-connected. In such an instance, most will illuminate an error lamp to indicate that the connections are reversed. Check the documentiation for yours if this isn't all marked on the unit itself.