This is for a 1991 ZR-1 but I figure they’re the same for the model year regardless. Before I get to the issue, I have done the following:

(1) Rebuilt rack back from Turn One
(2) New tie rods
(3) Rebuilt power steering pump with synthetic fluid flush

Basically everything refreshed but a rebuilt steering column. To my disappointment, I noticed my steering still had the same slop in the wheel despite the rebuilt rack. About an inch of play in the wheel before it “catches” and feels like the wheels are moving because of the steering. Also, the centering of the steering wheel has a mind of its own. This became more noticeable after the rebuild. Some parts of the drive, the wheel is centered perfectly when traveling down the road. A few minutes later after a few turns, the wheel is about 20 degrees or so off center towards the left. If I center the wheel, the car veers to the right. Then, as if by magic, a few minutes later and after a few more turns, the wheel is perfectly centered again going straight down the road.

I grabbed the intermediate shaft and twisted it by hand. I noticed I had an audible groan coming from somewhere. I shined a flashlight on the rag joint portion and I found my issue. The joint visibly moves before the rest of the shaft actually moves to turn the rack. Looking at my steering wheel while twisting the intermediate back and forth, the wheel traveled about an inch in each direction before the actual rack was engaged. So there’s my slop. So now I’m looking on eBay for used parts because, to my knowledge, these are not reproduced.

Any ideas or recommendations on a solution, I am open to hearing about. No, this has nothing to do with the small U joints as those appear to be pretty solid.

 

It might be worth a conversation with 'ididit' columns and/or Borgeson to see if maybe they can supply you with the correct/appropriate 'fabric' and it could like be a fit less the purchase of a complete coupling. I've known a few that did their own 'fabric' and were very happy. You're a TurnOne customer - I'd also ask them. I would think it might be considered an 'often asked' question.

If you were shopping eBay a 26022830 would be considered correct.

I don't follow the 'Pay and Pray'!!!

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll have to take a closer look at the joint but it appears two of four fasteners holding it together are not meant to ever come apart again. That part number 26022830: this looks to be 91-96 intermediate shafts correct? I’m seeing some listed as “94-96” but it’s visually identical to mine. Guess I can’t expect the sellers to know the exact year range for every part.

 

That part # does all LT5 and '92+ all I'm quite sure. It is what you need. It wouldn't be considered OE/NCRS correct for a '91 L98.

 

I'm no expert on the matter first and foremost but when I eventually swapped my early style unit with the rubber collapsible section to a later one... there only seemed to be a few differences I could find in the units I was able to locate... mainly it seemed it was grouped as 84-85 with the rubber collapsible section... 86-91 which appear to have the rag located in the middle but not all of them and then a 92-96 with the rag at the end.

Anyway... it would seem you have this pretty squared away based on the prior reply. (Most places can probably make it should it be needed.) It seems to be a pretty standard style part... the 67 shaft I had laying around was close enough that the joint could have been made to work should I have needed it... I think it was thicker. (Maybe 7 layers vs 3 or 4 or something) I also remember reading that there are or were eliminator kits available that use a u-joint to do away with it or even a billet disk... Not sure if that's the best move or if they are still available but may be another route to explore... otherwise used is probably the best bet. Corvette central had some as well but paying something like 170$ for a piece you really only need part of is a little insane imo. That is all I can help with. Sorry if it doesn't do much.

 

Just get rid of the rag joint completely.

 

What did you end up using? Solid rubber?

 

Aluminum.

 

I 'get it' - - - - BUT I don't believe it deserves 'promotion as a solution' for any vehicle that's considered a driver. The 'fabric/rag joint' accomplishes much. I ain't willing to debate it and of course anyone can use what they like. It does require serious thought!

 

I agree, the fabric rag joint does take out some of the vibration and harshness that might be felt. But, finding a replacement is impossible. And buying a used intermediate shaft might put one right back into the same spot.

 

I suggested the call to Borgeson knowing that they do 'fabric' only for some! A personal 'fabric' solution? Locals to me have been doing it for years. For hire? Doubtful but for projects they assemble quite often. There's many solutions for most 'fabric' joints ever constructed. Like I mentioned - ain't for me nor do I believe viable solution for a 'DRIVER' - It ain't a 'MIGHT BE FELT' - it will destroy in time many column components. Your 'disc' won't fail but I'd expect u-joint failures, lower column bearing issues and more.

Locals were doing the early GM stuff way before the kits hit the aftermarket.

What's the bolt-circle of your old fabric?

How might a BRG-000941 compare dimensionally?

 

OP; why don't you clamp the input shaft, AT the rack with something; carpenter's clamp, vice grips, C-clamp....whatever....then get in the car and try to turn the wheel left and right. It shouldn't move at all, other than the "torsional spring rate" of the combined shafts (which should be pretty darn stiff!). If it does move or have slop, then start scrutinizing where in the shaft(s) it is. If there is slop between the wheel and the rack, it probably is in the rag joint like ChumpVette is suggesting.

But based on your post, IDK that you/we know that the slop is in the column/steering shaft assy. "The rack was rebuilt" doesn't convince me of anything (unfortunately). I don't believe that any rebuilder actually reconditions the critical parts; the rack gear and pinion gear.

Have you proven to yourself that the issue is before the rack? I'd prove that, first.

 

I installed an aluminum rag joint as well. Was made for an f-body and took very minor modification to fit. I didn’t notice any increase in vibration, in fact only thing that changed was the slop in my steering was gone.

 

I trust Turn One on their rebuild of the rack. It’s definitely the rag joint. I can visually see the twisting fabric before the lower portion of the shaft starts to turn that is connected to the rack. The joint is also groaning with the twisting. I did call Borgeson and the person I spoke to said my whole unit would go in the trash and they would set me up with one of their custom pieces....so that’s a no go. They may have done bench jobs in the past but that was a nonstarter with them.

Borgesone suggested looking at, surprise, used parts to fix the slop. So while I contemplate my next step, I actually had a used piece out of a 1996 car show up. I will put that one in for the meantime. This isn’t a daily driver, so the aluminum rag joint eliminator option does interest me. I found this BUT I would like to see what others used and what in particular had to be modified on the joint:

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

 

The center bore hole needs to be enlarged I think 1/64th of an inch or maybe 1/32. Can't remember. It's the same one I used.

 

That is the one I used as well. Same experiences, I recall enlarging a hole slightly. It’s been years, hard to remember exactly what or by how much but it was minor.

 

Thanks guys. I’ll reach out to them to see if I can get the kit. The replacement shaft I put in today came out of an LT4 car with 50k or so miles. Major improvement to the steering feel and I’m a pleased with the tighter steering feel. The 91 intermediate shaft is shot and a good candidate for this modification.

 

Why wouldn't you disassemble, measure 'bolt circle' of yours and investigate a 'fabric' replacement? I don't quite see any 'logic' to your thoughts here. The modification you're thinking is of 'what proven value'? A fabric kit for the same application as your linked package is likely less $$$ but you shouldn't be rushed so 'investigate'.

Ireland Engineering does 2 or 3 'Urethane' for BMW. There's others as well.

https://www.iemotorsport.com/?s=urethane+coupler

If the aluminum disc interests you just have a 'local' VoTech do it to match your removed. Shipped I'd think your linked product would easily be $45 - 50.

 

This issue is easily solved with a bit of footwork and a bit of home manufacturing. This "ragjoint" is nothing more than a piece of heavy belting. A piece can be purchased at an agricultural supply store. If not there, this type of joint is used in many applications in farming equipment. Depending on where you live, a trip to an agricultural equipment dealership can just about be guaranteed of you finding what you need. You may even find they have a worn out conveyor lift chain with this material just laying in a junk heap.

 

I've got a **** load of used snow cat track belts. I'll give it away, to anyone who wants to make their own rag joint out of it.