When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Windage tray clearance issues with 383 stroker LT1
Finished with the bottom end on my 383 stroker and was going to put on the windage tray that bolts onto the main studs and realized it is superrr close to coming into contact with a few of my rod bolts. I’ll include a picture but I want to know if it’ll be okay to run without it or if there’s something I should replace it with or what. My oil pan also has a built in windage tray that covers most of it but this is the first engine I’ve built so I want to make sure.
If you have to use a stock pan, I take a hammer and create a arch in the windage tray so the rods clear. I usually use a aftermarket pan like Canton.
yea I am using the stock pan, it has a windage tray in the pan as well as this other one that bolts to the studs, not really sure why I just want to know if this one is necessary or not but I’ll try bending it a bit to give more clearance
Hey, no building engines in the kitchen! Lol
If I remember you only need like .030 or more clearance. Judging by the picture it looks like plenty of clearance....
You'll be fine with that setup. My first engine rebuild was a 69 340 Mopar. They came stock with a windage tray that bolted onto the mains bolts and was a semi-circle around the crankshaft with less clearance than what I'm seeing there.
Put it on, rotate the engine by hand where it hits clearance it with a hammer. Or use 2 fender washers stacked on each stud. I was able to do this with my stock pan and windage tray and 383 short block. It worked perfect. Use the blue felpro 1 piece pan gasket and bolt the pan on with all bolts torqued, rotate by hand again. Wherever the rod bolts hit the pan smack it with a ball peen hammer a couple times. This is all part of engine building buddy. You have to check EVERYTHING.
Put it on, rotate the engine by hand where it hits clearance it with a hammer. Or use 2 fender washers stacked on each stud. I was able to do this with my stock pan and windage tray and 383 short block. It worked perfect. Use the blue felpro 1 piece pan gasket and bolt the pan on with all bolts torqued, rotate by hand again. Wherever the rod bolts hit the pan smack it with a ball peen hammer a couple times. This is all part of engine building buddy. You have to check EVERYTHING.
Bill's got it right. I have used washers to lower the pan.
Put it on, rotate the engine by hand where it hits clearance it with a hammer. Or use 2 fender washers stacked on each stud. I was able to do this with my stock pan and windage tray and 383 short block. It worked perfect. Use the blue felpro 1 piece pan gasket and bolt the pan on with all bolts torqued, rotate by hand again. Wherever the rod bolts hit the pan smack it with a ball peen hammer a couple times. This is all part of engine building buddy. You have to check EVERYTHING.
would it be normal if none of my rods hit my pan? Was able to clearance the windage tray with a hammer and it’s got plenty of room now, set the oil pan on top and did two rotations and didn’t hear or see anything to indicate the rods hitting the oil pan, I’m using the stock pan as well. I didn’t see the pan move at all and I didn’t put a single bolt to hold it down and I didn’t hear any noise to indicate something did hit it. I didn’t have to many clearance issues on my block either, I had to notch out a few areas but really wasn’t bad at all. Maybe I’m just getting lucky?
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Windage tray clearance issues with 383 stroker LT1
