Safe, temporary fix for my fuel tank?
I'm probably going to replace the tank in mine. Just removed the damaged rear bumper cover to replace it, noticed the tank has a lot of rust flake on the outside. One spot on the top feels a little thin and oil cans.
How did the tank from Zip look? Do you know the capacity? Rockauto lists three tanks - two are in the $600 range, one of which lists the capacity as 20 gallons. The other tank is $200 something but only listed at 16 gallons.
Thanks!





When you torque down the bolts they pull the rosetts out. And you donlt notice it untl you take the sending unit off agan for whatever reason.
I discovered this when I recently replaced my fuel pump and sock.
Had to literally rip a rosette out to get a bolt out, as the bolts are also made from crap steel and the threads were completely gone...
Every single one of the rosettes that the bolts thread into to hold down the sending unit were pulling up through the tank...
All of the bolts were initially torqued to spec per the FSM. Think it's like 9 lbs/ft or something like that.
Or maybe it was 9 lbs/inch; it was one of the two.
I went by what the FSM said, regardless.
Cheap steel. Or zinc plated, I guess it is...
Think I'll shop elsewhere for the next one. Hopefully try to find an American manufactured one vs the one I installed from Zip. Just have to pay a bit more, I suppose, so I don't have to do it again.
After doing it once already, you can swap em out lickety split, though, so...it ain't so bad doing...
Last edited by Natty C; Jun 2, 2025 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Typos...





I imagine that Zip reps likely already know what they're selling, Dan. It's pretty much the cheapest tank on the market that I've seen. Though their price has jumped up a bit since I initially bought it.
Just gonna shop elsewhere for an OEM quality manufactured tank and be done with it. Or as close as can get to it anyway. This one from Zip clearly ain't it.
It'll probably get you by if you were to buy good, quality steel hardware seperately and not use what the manufacturer packages with it.
And definitely don't torque the hardware to the OEM spec stated in the FSM, because 1 - it unseats and pulls the rosettes up through the top of the tank material and 2 - the OEM torque spec will strip some of the bolt threads on the hardware that comes with the tank if you do torque to spec.
And buy a thicker gasket, since you won't be able to tighten the hardware to spec without having the problems I have here.
Last edited by Natty C; Jun 3, 2025 at 04:00 PM.










I just don't remember what it was. But if it's what you mention here and if that's what the FSM says then that's what I torqued to.
For some reason the number 9 comes to mind, but probably that was a torque on something else. Hard telling what, though; it's been a while.
Anyway. Tank's getting replaced so...bleh...another day in the neighborhood...









