VATS programmed deleted, Chip/resister key still needed?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
VATS programmed deleted, Chip/resister key still needed?
When I had a new prom burned I had the VATS deleted. Can I go to a regular non resister key? I need some spares. Also he mentioned something about bypassing the starter interrupt relay for safe measure.I want to be rid of VATS completely...car is an 87.
Last edited by TommyFox; Apr 11, 2021 at 08:06 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
I wouldn't think so! You could have your key copied to a known erroneous 'resistance' and if you get CRANK then you're good. Do you know the current 'resistance' value of your keys? Put a resistor in line and the key would become usable and consider VATS/CRANK defeated.
The only blank with 0 resistance is a 'brass work key' - you wouldn't want that for everyday use. Once defeated you have no concern for the 'resistance' of the blank used.
If you have multiple working keys now I don't understand the concern. Buy correct spares and if it becomes required add the resistor later.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 11, 2021 at 08:44 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
I wouldn't think so! You could have your key copied to a known erroneous 'resistance' and if you get CRANK then you're good. Do you know the current 'resistance' value of your keys? Put a resistor in line and the key would become usable and consider VATS/CRANK defeated.
The only blank with 0 resistance is a 'brass work key' - you wouldn't want that for everyday use. Once defeated you have no concern for the 'resistance' of the blank used.
If you have multiple working keys now I don't understand the concern. Buy correct spares and if it becomes required add the resistor later.
The only blank with 0 resistance is a 'brass work key' - you wouldn't want that for everyday use. Once defeated you have no concern for the 'resistance' of the blank used.
If you have multiple working keys now I don't understand the concern. Buy correct spares and if it becomes required add the resistor later.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
Car only came with one ignition resistor key. I had the VATS deleted with a new prom. I didn't want to order a resistor key if a standard one can be cut to start the car. It's a # 12 6 ohm key . Also the guy who programmed the VATS delete mentioned bypassing the starter interrupt relay for safe measure, whatever that means... I guess I should just have a standard key cut and see what happens. I just want to eliminate all VATS variables from the car...
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 11, 2021 at 10:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
Last edited by 89onlyZ51; Apr 11, 2021 at 12:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Well thank God I only wasted 5 dollars. A standard key WILL NOT engage the tumbler inside to turn ignition. I ordered a resistor key at ACE hardware. Gut said it probably would not work but it was an experiment.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
The way I interpret the wiring diagram from a 1988 FSM, the VATS module grounds the Starter Enable Relay which is behind the radio / DIC oin the center stack. Without the resistor, the VATS module won't enable the relay for cranking.
The OP's guy is correct: The relay needs to be bypassed before the OP can remove the resistor. In the 88 schematic, the relay has 2 large gauge yellow wires, one large gauge grn/wht wire, and a small gauge dk green wire. Splice or jumper one yellow wire to the grn/wht wire. The other two remain not connected.
The OP's guy is correct: The relay needs to be bypassed before the OP can remove the resistor. In the 88 schematic, the relay has 2 large gauge yellow wires, one large gauge grn/wht wire, and a small gauge dk green wire. Splice or jumper one yellow wire to the grn/wht wire. The other two remain not connected.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
The way I interpret the wiring diagram from a 1988 FSM, the VATS module grounds the Starter Enable Relay which is behind the radio / DIC oin the center stack. Without the resistor, the VATS module won't enable the relay for cranking.
The OP's guy is correct: The relay needs to be bypassed before the OP can remove the resistor. In the 88 schematic, the relay has 2 large gauge yellow wires, one large gauge grn/wht wire, and a small gauge dk green wire. Splice or jumper one yellow wire to the grn/wht wire. The other two remain not connected.
The OP's guy is correct: The relay needs to be bypassed before the OP can remove the resistor. In the 88 schematic, the relay has 2 large gauge yellow wires, one large gauge grn/wht wire, and a small gauge dk green wire. Splice or jumper one yellow wire to the grn/wht wire. The other two remain not connected.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 325
From: San Antonio Tx
You are correct. Sorry about my mistake. I had forgotten after almost 20 years about the starter enable relay. My relay had previously failed so as a temporary emergency fix (permanent?) I pulled the cover off the relay and zip tied the contacts closed. The ECM no longer cares if there is a resistor key. And a non vats key will work unless they screw it up when they cut it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
Yep, and nothing beats getting stranded 400 miles from home because your car that no one else really care about (as in enough to steal) won't start due to yet another crappy 35 year old relay that was marginal when new was inserted into yet another branch of the wiring harness behind the dash and won't close the contacts when you turn the key - BTDT!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
This is spot-on. Terminal A will have the grn/white wire, and C & E should have the yellow wires (the connector will give the terminal id's in tiny letters for you to see if your eyesight is good). It doesn't matter which yellow wire you use, just protect the unused yellow wire one from potential grounding.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
Easy peasy. Remove relay and connect either of the thick yellow wires to the thick grenn-with-white-stripe wire. Then just make sure to protect the yellow wire that you're not using so it can't short to ground (i.e. don't leave a bare wire end dangling around back there).
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Easy peasy. Remove relay and connect either of the thick yellow wires to the thick grenn-with-white-stripe wire. Then just make sure to protect the yellow wire that you're not using so it can't short to ground (i.e. don't leave a bare wire end dangling around back there).