Gearshift Knob (4+3) Alignment
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 24
Likes: 11
Gearshift **** (4+3) Alignment
On my recently acquired 1988 C4 (with manual 4+3 transmission) the gear shift ****, which is roughly rectangular, doesn't point forward. It's actually turned a little bit to the left, counter-clockwise, towards the left front wheel. I'm sure this wouldn't bother some people at all but I've got the sort of personality where this will quickly drive me nuts. Is there a straightforward way to fix the alignment? I have instructions on how to remove the **** but it isn't clear how you would change the angle at which the the **** becomes tight as you screw it down in order to fix the alignment.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 986
Likes: 487
On my recently acquired 1988 C4 (with manual 4+3 transmission) the gear shift ****, which is roughly rectangular, doesn't point forward. It's actually turned a little bit to the left, counter-clockwise, towards the left front wheel. I'm sure this wouldn't bother some people at all but I've got the sort of personality where this will quickly drive me nuts. Is there a straightforward way to fix the alignment? I have instructions on how to remove the **** but it isn't clear how you would change the angle at which the the **** becomes tight as you screw it down in order to fix the alignment.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sometimes people who don't know how they come apart start twisting and damage the ****/keyway.
If that's the problem the only solution is a replacement ****. Mine points the right direction, but the plastic tabs that hold the button are on their last legs, so it may be time for a new one for me too.
Last edited by PacerX; Apr 20, 2021 at 08:55 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 986
Likes: 487
PacerX is describing the automatic which pushes on, and is held with a C-clip.
The 4+3's screws on, but not until it is tight. Screw it on until snug, then back off until it is oriented straight ahead. There is an aluminum "H" shaped wedge that goes into the **** against the flat on the shifter stem that keeps it from turning, and locks it in place. Sounds like the OP's wedge is missing.
There is a small diameter metal "T" piece that screws into the OD switch at the base of the shifter. This must be removed prior to attempting to unscrew the ****. Be very, very gentle prying up the plastic center button. There is a "C" shaped clip in each corner. The front two are on the metal rod to the switch, the rear two hinge on the shift ****. Gently pry up on each corner, just a tad. I haven't seen the plastic button for the 4+3 catalogued by any of the regular sources. It may not be available if the clips get broken off..
The 4+3's screws on, but not until it is tight. Screw it on until snug, then back off until it is oriented straight ahead. There is an aluminum "H" shaped wedge that goes into the **** against the flat on the shifter stem that keeps it from turning, and locks it in place. Sounds like the OP's wedge is missing.
There is a small diameter metal "T" piece that screws into the OD switch at the base of the shifter. This must be removed prior to attempting to unscrew the ****. Be very, very gentle prying up the plastic center button. There is a "C" shaped clip in each corner. The front two are on the metal rod to the switch, the rear two hinge on the shift ****. Gently pry up on each corner, just a tad. I haven't seen the plastic button for the 4+3 catalogued by any of the regular sources. It may not be available if the clips get broken off..
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 383
Likes: 86
From: Northeast Ohio
Pry the button gently from the FRONT edges. When removing the T-Rod, count the number of turns it takes to remove it, then when you reinstall go with the same turns back. It doesn't have to be exact, but this will determine the height of the button when reinstalled.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 24
Likes: 11
PacerX is describing the automatic which pushes on, and is held with a C-clip.
The 4+3's screws on, but not until it is tight. Screw it on until snug, then back off until it is oriented straight ahead. There is an aluminum "H" shaped wedge that goes into the **** against the flat on the shifter stem that keeps it from turning, and locks it in place. Sounds like the OP's wedge is missing.
There is a small diameter metal "T" piece that screws into the OD switch at the base of the shifter. This must be removed prior to attempting to unscrew the ****. Be very, very gentle prying up the plastic center button. There is a "C" shaped clip in each corner. The front two are on the metal rod to the switch, the rear two hinge on the shift ****. Gently pry up on each corner, just a tad. I haven't seen the plastic button for the 4+3 catalogued by any of the regular sources. It may not be available if the clips get broken off..
The 4+3's screws on, but not until it is tight. Screw it on until snug, then back off until it is oriented straight ahead. There is an aluminum "H" shaped wedge that goes into the **** against the flat on the shifter stem that keeps it from turning, and locks it in place. Sounds like the OP's wedge is missing.
There is a small diameter metal "T" piece that screws into the OD switch at the base of the shifter. This must be removed prior to attempting to unscrew the ****. Be very, very gentle prying up the plastic center button. There is a "C" shaped clip in each corner. The front two are on the metal rod to the switch, the rear two hinge on the shift ****. Gently pry up on each corner, just a tad. I haven't seen the plastic button for the 4+3 catalogued by any of the regular sources. It may not be available if the clips get broken off..
