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92 corvette starts up then dies and then i start it up again and i can see the tachometer rev up to 1k when it starts to stall. Afterwards if i shut it off and then turn it back on it doesn't die and drives normally. What could be the issue? thought it was battery so i changed that, maybe spark plugs or EGR thats gummed up but unsure.
Anyone else have this issue?
gotta be throwing a code.....put a fuel pressure gauge on it and make sure fuel pump is on after start.....runs for 2 sec at key on, starts again when it senses oil pressure.....the oil switch turns it on.........
gotta be throwing a code.....put a fuel pressure gauge on it and make sure fuel pump is on after start.....runs for 2 sec at key on, starts again when it senses oil pressure.....the oil switch turns it on.........
Not this FUD again, ffs...
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is told by the CCM whether the correct key is inserted into the ignition cylinder (VATS/Pass-key). If this system is working, then the relay will turn the fuel pump on to prime the system as soon as you turn the key, and then of course will keep it on when the car is running.
The oil pressure switch is only a backup, which bypasses the fuel pump relay. Under normal operation, it's irrelevant. But in case the fuel pump relay fails, it will allow the car to continue running as long as oil pressure exists.
OP, I'd get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and start there. There's a schraeder valve on the fuel rail if you pop the fancy plastic "CORVETTE" covers off. Confirm that you actually have steady pressure (around 40 PSI).
No start when warm outside 1992 vorvette 5.7 ohv LT1
I am currently dealing with this issue myself. It's currently at the mechanics...I have already had the security bypassed by replacing the module inside the dash...very labor intensive but didn't cure my problem...replaced fuel pump. Still not cured...I do get the occasional service ASR code and read in another forum could be bad ECM...it only does the no start mid day or around 5pm when 65 degrees + outside. I will try to let you know if and what fixed my issue. It has been cool weather here lately and starts perfect during cold weather. 🥶 I don't get it.
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is told by the CCM whether the correct key is inserted into the ignition cylinder (VATS/Pass-key). If this system is working, then the relay will turn the fuel pump on to prime the system as soon as you turn the key, and then of course will keep it on when the car is running.
The oil pressure switch is only a backup, which bypasses the fuel pump relay. Under normal operation, it's irrelevant. But in case the fuel pump relay fails, it will allow the car to continue running as long as oil pressure exists.
OP, I'd get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and start there. There's a schraeder valve on the fuel rail if you pop the fancy plastic "CORVETTE" covers off. Confirm that you actually have steady pressure (around 40 PSI).
It took me awhile but I have decided to give up on trying to correct all this BS about the oil pressure switch. I have come to the conclusion that people do not want to have correct information. The spread of incorrect info on this site is worse than the spread of this covid. You can try and correct it but in the end, it will be a frustrating waste of time. The amazing part is the people who continually spread this bullshit are people who have been here for 7, 8, years or better. I wouldn't want to estimate how many times this subject comes up in a year and still, people do not want to learn. Maybe it's a throw-back to their short bus days. Not sure.
I am currently dealing with this issue myself. It's currently at the mechanics...I have already had the security bypassed by replacing the module inside the dash...very labor intensive but didn't cure my problem...replaced fuel pump. Still not cured...I do get the occasional service ASR code and read in another forum could be bad ECM...it only does the no start mid day or around 5pm when 65 degrees + outside. I will try to let you know if and what fixed my issue. It has been cool weather here lately and starts perfect during cold weather. 🥶 I don't get it.
Step 1 is to figure out which Service ASR code is actually being thrown. That should've been done before the car went anywhere, let alone was handed over to a mechanic. Whenever you see one of those lights come on, your very first instinct should be "time to jump those two pins on the ALDL connector and see what the car is trying to tell me."
As for bad ECM, you don't mention what year car you have, but I assume it's a 92-96 by the fact that it has ASR at all. If it's a 92-93 it's possible the ECM is bad but I wouldn't jump to that conclusion automatically without doing far more diagnostics. If it's a 94-96 forget it, your PCM is not bad.
Maybe consider starting your own thread for your problem if you'd like community assistance in dealing with it?
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is told by the CCM whether the correct key is inserted into the ignition cylinder (VATS/Pass-key). If this system is working, then the relay will turn the fuel pump on to prime the system as soon as you turn the key, and then of course will keep it on when the car is running.
The oil pressure switch is only a backup, which bypasses the fuel pump relay. Under normal operation, it's irrelevant. But in case the fuel pump relay fails, it will allow the car to continue running as long as oil pressure exists.
OP, I'd get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and start there. There's a schraeder valve on the fuel rail if you pop the fancy plastic "CORVETTE" covers off. Confirm that you actually have steady pressure (around 40 PSI).
so i think my egr is bad because when i removed it the suction part didn't go down all the way. One friend told me that it could be that since on the gauges dash with my oil pressure i have around 75-96 at start. Also another weird thing is the temperature on the gauges goes haywire sometimes and will go from 20-46-57-125-230-195 and then stays at 195 or so and 215-230 when driving it. I think it could just be that i need to change the thermometer.
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is told by the CCM whether the correct key is inserted into the ignition cylinder (VATS/Pass-key). If this system is working, then the relay will turn the fuel pump on to prime the system as soon as you turn the key, and then of course will keep it on when the car is running.
The oil pressure switch is only a backup, which bypasses the fuel pump relay. Under normal operation, it's irrelevant. But in case the fuel pump relay fails, it will allow the car to continue running as long as oil pressure exists.
OP, I'd get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and start there. There's a schraeder valve on the fuel rail if you pop the fancy plastic "CORVETTE" covers off. Confirm that you actually have steady pressure (around 40 PSI).
have them check the egr someone told me its possible its just gummed up so i ordered a new one. And check the little black vacuum hose lines that connect to it, one of mine was hard and not soft like they're supposed to be. Either way it doesn't hurt changing it. I hear you can delete the egr too but you'll fail your emissions test. I'm supposed to get it tomorrow so I'll install and report back if that solved my problem.
so i think my egr is bad because when i removed it the suction part didn't go down all the way. One friend told me that it could be that since on the gauges dash with my oil pressure i have around 75-96 at start. Also another weird thing is the temperature on the gauges goes haywire sometimes and will go from 20-46-57-125-230-195 and then stays at 195 or so and 215-230 when driving it. I think it could just be that i need to change the thermometer.
If you mean the digital coolant temperatures (the one displayed in the middle of the instrument panel) are not displaying correctly, that needs to be fixed. The digital temperature on the dash is the same temperature the computer is using for fueling calculations. If it is incorrect the fueling will also be incorrect. It won't be enough to cause it to fail to run, but it will run crappy if it's not correct. But if the car is stock, those temperatures look correct. The stock thermostat is a 180F, and stock motors will generally heat up to 195F or so. The slow fan doesn't even kick on until 220F. Full speed doesn't come in until 228F.
So unless you're saying the temps jump between 230 and, say, 20...then it sounds like your temps are normal, and the sensor is reading correctly. Welcome to the LT1.
If you mean the digital coolant temperatures (the one displayed in the middle of the instrument panel) are not displaying correctly, that needs to be fixed. The digital temperature on the dash is the same temperature the computer is using for fueling calculations. If it is incorrect the fueling will also be incorrect. It won't be enough to cause it to fail to run, but it will run crappy if it's not correct. But if the car is stock, those temperatures look correct. The stock thermostat is a 180F, and stock motors will generally heat up to 195F or so. The slow fan doesn't even kick on until 220F. Full speed doesn't come in until 228F.
So unless you're saying the temps jump between 230 and, say, 20...then it sounds like your temps are normal, and the sensor is reading correctly. Welcome to the LT1.
yeah it will go up and down then get a lo reading but then it goes back up again. Not sure if probably my coolant hoses need to fixed as well
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is told by the CCM whether the correct key is inserted into the ignition cylinder (VATS/Pass-key). If this system is working, then the relay will turn the fuel pump on to prime the system as soon as you turn the key, and then of course will keep it on when the car is running.
The oil pressure switch is only a backup, which bypasses the fuel pump relay. Under normal operation, it's irrelevant. But in case the fuel pump relay fails, it will allow the car to continue running as long as oil pressure exists.
OP, I'd get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and start there. There's a schraeder valve on the fuel rail if you pop the fancy plastic "CORVETTE" covers off. Confirm that you actually have steady pressure (around 40 PSI).
I advised him to do what you advised him to put..put a guage on it......save your snotty lessons for someone else
92 starts then dies
