cooling fan revisited
The relay is the stock relay. Do you have a suggestion for a replacement that has the diode you are talking about? I am being serious.
Frankly I do not know how to do continuity using a multimeter. Off to YouTube.
Is there any chance that I should be switching the A to the battery and E to the fan.
Thank you.
For continuity check find the Ω symbol on the meter, then touch the probes to each pin till you get a reading, relays are typically 800 ohms.
Switching A and D will have no effect on operation.
So... to bring it all together:
Front temp sender-->ECM coolant temp sensor
pass side by dipstick --> overheating switch
driver side under between 1 and 3 ex runner-->dash signal
Disconnecting the temp sender will cause the main fan to run at full speed, this verifies the ECM can control the fan, grounding out the passenger side temp switch verifies the overheating circuit works.
Disconnecting the front sender will cause running problems though, but the fans will run in the key on engine off position IIRC.
So then there is another wire that goes from a switch in the front of the engine. And that wire needs to be connected to the relay. Correct?
Single fan models have the overheat switch and the ECM controlling the main fan, dual fans only the ECM can control the main fan, the temp switch is reserved for aux fan control.
The hose fitting is for the throttle body heating circuit, most people bypass it.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Jun 15, 2021 at 12:58 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Front temp sensor - ECM coolant sensor-- this is in the intake manifold?
pass side dip stick-- overheating switch
Drivers side ------ dash signal
From the picture above there are two sensors in the intake under the thermostat housing. I think the fan one is the switch/sensor with the black and yellow wire.
I have the two fan wiring diagram in front of me"Y-CAR-124". It dos not have that wire on the diagram/schematic.
I really appreciate your help
Front temp sensor - ECM coolant sensor-- this is in the intake manifold?
pass side dip stick-- overheating switch
Drivers side ------ dash signal
From the picture above there are two sensors in the intake under the thermostat housing. I think the fan one is the switch/sensor with the black and yellow wire.
I have the two fan wiring diagram in front of me"Y-CAR-124". It dos not have that wire on the diagram/schematic.
I really appreciate your help
Yellow wire is the ECM input, red is the thermo-time switch for the cold start injector, it is not part of the cooling system.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Jun 19, 2021 at 09:22 AM.
I removed the ground from the switch. Both the GRN/Whit and Blue wires have power.
I disconnected the GRN/Wht wire from the relay and turned on the key. It has power. Should it?
If I run a wire from A to D the fan runs. Oh and I had an old relay lying around. Same thing clicking but the fan is not running.
Thank you all
"Front temp sensor - ECM coolant sensor-- this is in the intake manifold?
pass side dip stick-- overheating switch
Drivers side ------ dash signal"
Where should I be looking so I can see this information.
Thank you
"Front temp sensor - ECM coolant sensor-- this is in the intake manifold?
pass side dip stick-- overheating switch
Drivers side ------ dash signal"
Where should I be looking so I can see this information.
Thank you
I removed the ground from the switch. Both the GRN/Whit and Blue wires have power.
I disconnected the GRN/Wht wire from the relay and turned on the key. It has power. Should it?
If I run a wire from A to D the fan runs. Oh and I had an old relay lying around. Same thing clicking but the fan is not running.
Thank you all
If you disconnected the coolant temp sensor and the main fan did not run that means the issue is between the main fan relay and the ECM.
Here's a pic with the different locations of the two relays:
Can you confirm which relay you are working on?
So to take a step back:
The main fan has its own relay and is controlled solely by the ECM, it has no redundant switch to get it to turn on.
The aux fan is solely temperature switch switch controlled and has no connection to the ECM.
To test the main fan, disconnect the coolant temp sensor with the yellow wire, which is located at the front of the motor in the intake base.
To test the aux fan, ground the green and white wire on thr passenger side head.
Hope this helps, you're making progress but I think it's time to pull the passenger side hush panel and jump the pin D2 TO D3, if that gets the fan to work but unplugging the coolant temp sensor does not, the ECMs internal circuitry for the fan is toast.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Jun 19, 2021 at 02:47 PM.
I am thinking that the problem I am having with the main relay is that with the key on both the blue and GRN/White wires have power. So when the relay kicks in the voltage goes crazy.
Any ideas?
Thank you
If you disconnected the coolant temp sensor and the main fan did not run that means the issue is between the main fan relay and the ECM.
Here's a pic with the different locations of the two relays:
Can you confirm which relay you are working on?
So to take a step back:
The main fan has its own relay and is controlled solely by the ECM, it has no redundant switch to get it to turn on.
The aux fan is solely temperature switch switch controlled and has no connection to the ECM.
To test the main fan, disconnect the coolant temp sensor with the yellow wire, which is located at the front of the motor in the intake base.
To test the aux fan, ground the green and white wire on thr passenger side head.
Hope this helps, you're making progress but I think it's time to pull the passenger side hush panel and jump the pin D2 TO D3, if that gets the fan to work but unplugging the coolant temp sensor does not, the ECMs internal circuitry for the fan is toast.
IT IS ALIVE!!!
So I wired the fan relay exactly the same as the fan auxiliary fan relay and it WORKS, YiPPIE!!!!
Al kidding aside. You guys are great. Without you this would have ended up at some shop and costing me god knows what. Thank you all
Happy Father's Day
5 pin relay and five pin connector
E power
D- empty has no blade in the relay
C-Blue -fuse panel
B- GRN/White wire
A- Fan
Before this the GRN/White had power with the key on. Now when I probe the GRN/White, key on, the fan spins. I have not run the car. The block on the heater hose bypass broke. So I lost a lot of coolant. I am going to try and clean up the heater core piping. Maybe replace the heater core. Then run it. But, I am sure it will work correctly. Grounding the switches turns the fans.

Thank you all again.











