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I have my lockup solenoid wired direct so I can switch it on/off when I want to. I just put a new solenoid in and it clicks and I can see the plunger coming down when the switch is on and it goes right back up when I shut the switch off, however I see no drop in rpm when I switch it on nor a rise in rpm when I shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? Also, I have had it this way for years and it has always showed a change in rpm when switch is moved
I have my lockup solenoid wired direct so I can switch it on/off when I want to. I just put a new solenoid in and it clicks and I can see the plunger coming down when the switch is on and it goes right back up when I shut the switch off, however I see no drop in rpm when I switch it on nor a rise in rpm when I shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? Also, I have had it this way for years and it has always showed a change in rpm when switch is moved
1) Signal oil is not being sent from the valve body.
2) Converter clutch valve in pump is stuck and not stroking.
3) Lining on clutch disk is bad and converter on the way out.
Could be much more but that is the "top of my head ones".
When you switch it to engage you converter, can you apply and release throttle and see your RPM change while the car maintains a pretty consistent speed? As is typical with a fluid coupler? Or is it "hooked up" like a manual transmission would be, through on/off throttle cycles? I only ask b/c if something else is already engaging the converter (ECM?), then you'd not see a drop in RPM when engaging your manual switch, but the converter may already be locked?
When you switch it to engage you converter, can you apply and release throttle and see your RPM change while the car maintains a pretty consistent speed? As is typical with a fluid coupler? Or is it "hooked up" like a manual transmission would be, through on/off throttle cycles? I only ask b/c if something else is already engaging the converter (ECM?), then you'd not see a drop in RPM when engaging your manual switch, but the converter may already be locked?
While anything is possible, being stuck(the converter) in the applied position is not likely. The solenoid controls the signal oil to the clutch valve in the pump. His solenoid is completely manual. To your point, the clutch valve would have to be stuck in the stroked position and then he wouldn't be able to stop as the converter would be bypassing the fluid coupling. Reading between the lines, the OP says he "just put a new solenoid in" which would indicate to me that he was having a problem with the converter not locking.
Yeah, I hear you, but we don't know how he wired the thing. I don't, anyway. If he wired the ground in parallel w/the ECM circuit, then the ECM may be functioning as intended, locking the converter when it should....then he flips his switch and "nothing happens". IDK. That could also align with his method for determining that the converter isn't locking when he flips his switch; if it was already locked (by the ECM), then....you know. Just a check.
I agree that the converter isn't locked all the time.
I have my lockup solenoid wired direct so I can switch it on/off when I want to. I just put a new solenoid in and it clicks and I can see the plunger coming down when the switch is on and it goes right back up when I shut the switch off, however I see no drop in rpm when I switch it on nor a rise in rpm when I shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? Also, I have had it this way for years and it has always showed a change in rpm when switch is moved
Does your factory brake/tc switch still work or did you disconnect that? I have my 84 C4 700r4 wired so I only get lock up in 4th but my brake switch will still unlock the converter if I have my dash toggle switch in the on position. Unless I am going over 55 I never lock the coverter in 4th gear. Everyone seems to have a different way of locking and unlocking the converter!
I'm wondering if the transmission is stock other than the lockup solenoid? The reason I ask is I just saw a video the other day from Precision Transmission that explained that if you remove seals to increase fluid surface area on the bonded piston for 3rd that you will loose lockup. I kind of thought he was full of it. But in my 4L80e I have the same problem and that's why. In the video he said it was the same issue for 700r4 2004r 4L60's and 4l80e's.
I'm wondering if the transmission is stock other than the lockup solenoid? The reason I ask is I just saw a video the other day from Precision Transmission that explained that if you remove seals to increase fluid surface area on the bonded piston for 3rd that you will loose lockup. I kind of thought he was full of it. But in my 4L80e I have the same problem and that's why. In the video he said it was the same issue for 700r4 2004r 4L60's and 4l80e's.
Can you link that video please? I must have missed that one. Sometimes Richard is so full of **** it hurts. While he IS very skillful, he quite often tells you bullshit and the PT groupies just eat it up. If you read the comments below his videos, you would think that JC has risen and come back as a trans tech in Amarillo. EG> He once stated that if you block the drainback hole from the servo bore you would have no 4th. The 4th band apply oil comes through the center of the pin.
I will try to clarify things which I should have done in the first place. The trans is completely stock and the lockup worked just fine and I could feel the shift, even in third if I switched it then. Normally I would wait for the shift into OD then flip the switch. Been that way for some time. Then the "Accidental" neutral drop happened, don't even ask, I didn't do it. I was trying to get the lockup back and wasn't having any luck so I dropped the pan. Nothing out of the ordinary in the pan but the solenoid was dead when I tried to apply power to it. So, I got a new solenoid and wired it up the same as it was which is power to the brown wire and the tan/black and the green spliced together. Tonight I tore everything back apart and took a look at the whatchamacallit in the attached photos. Does anybody know what it is? The 2 terminals have no continuity and show no ohms, not even from the terminals to the housing so I am guessing it is dead. But, if it is dead why is the solenoid clicking?
The temp switch was bad and I asked a guy who does transmissions for a living about the solenoid I put in. The old solenoid was bolted in right up against the case but the new one I got had 2 studs included that had a hex head in the middle which spaced the solenoid out of the case about 1/4 inch. He told me that the one in my transmission was correct for a 700R4 but to use the hex as a spacer was actually for the 200 trans. He advised me to put the solenoid all the way in and tighten the studs down on it, or, in this case up to it. Lockup is working just fine.
The temp switch was bad and I asked a guy who does transmissions for a living about the solenoid I put in. The old solenoid was bolted in right up against the case but the new one I got had 2 studs included that had a hex head in the middle which spaced the solenoid out of the case about 1/4 inch. He told me that the one in my transmission was correct for a 700R4 but to use the hex as a spacer was actually for the 200 trans. He advised me to put the solenoid all the way in and tighten the studs down on it, or, in this case up to it. Lockup is working just fine.
Yes a 'universal' TCC is serviced that way for the 200R4 & 700R4. Had you bought a 700R4 TCC with the harness I don't believe you would have had your situation. For anyone else that might buy assuming the studs are required you've answered the question! TOSS EM'!!
Yes a 'universal' TCC is serviced that way for the 200R4 & 700R4. Had you bought a 700R4 TCC with the harness I don't believe you would have had your situation. For anyone else that might buy assuming the studs are required you've answered the question! TOSS EM'!!
Your buy was something similar to this?
Yep, that's it. Made by Borg Warner, at least that's the box it came in.
700R4 problem
