Hello, I'm the new owner of my dream car back 30 yes ago!! Finally!
I bought this car knowing nothing about it except it didn't run, was told it ran strong 5 to 10 yrs before.
Trailered it home and found engine was stuck. Noticed new starter. Jacked up the front end remover cover from torque converter and freed the engine slowly using Marvel etc in the cylinders. Got it free. Cranked engine, no fuel pump noise. I noticed the sensor in front of the starter broken, reconnected. Noticed sensor near #6 cyl unplugged, reconnected. Pulled fuel pump/fuel level from tank and found bad gas and water, a lot of contamination. Cleaned and installed new pump. Cranked engine still no pump noise or fuel pressure. Connected power to pin in all connector and had pressure at rail. Tried to crank, had liquid lock #8 cylinder. Front end is still jacked up. Removed all the plugs and (mistake)cranked engine 1/4 cup of fuel came out #8 cylinder. I'm parked on my driveway. 15' ball of flame came out along with fuel on the ground!! I lived, and so did the car, it just warmed things up a bit. I did have fire ext available. I have fuel pressure at the rail but it bleeds off quickly. With all this information, is it a leaking start injector# ? Being jacked up in the front is that why #8 liquid lock?

 

With that list of issues, you're best off just taking off the upper plenum and runners, replace the injectors (all of them) and the fuel pressure regulator at the very least. Your whole fuel system had that contamination you found in the fuel tank and likely froze an injector from corrosion or just age (especially if they are OEM Multec injectors that old).

Along with the fuel injectors and regulator, do the fuel filter for sure. I'd try to flush the hell out of that fuel system as well if you can so that you clear the lines of any residual junk.

I don't think having the car jacked up is going to cause #8 to lock. The injector probably did that all on its own regardless of car angle. And the other injectors are not far behind that one timewise.

I'm glad you and the car did not burn to a crisp. Good luck w/ the repairs.

 

Well hello, thanks for your advice. Replacing injectors is the direction I was headed. The fuel pressure did climb to maybe 32psi but bleed off in 3 or 4 seconds. While I put power to the fuel pump I had a young buck listen on the injectors and he could hear rdd them leaking.all of them on them 2,4,6,&8.. I was surprised to see so much junk in the fuel tank when the only thing that can rust is the filler.. but easily 2 1/2 to 3" of water in the tank. Fuel filter was the 2nd item I replaced, plugs were first. So with this being the place of all answers, what's your advice on injectors. A good injector with a better price.

 

A bad fuel pressure regulator caused my pressure to bleed that fast You have to change it anyway

 

I just installed the Bosch type III injectors from Fuel Injector Connection and I'm really happy with them. They are the Exact Fit type, yellow in the photos but mine were black when they arrived. Perfect fit, as they say.

https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/c...amaro-firebird

They also have the rebuild kit for your fuel pressure regulator on the same page. Replacing the spring and diaphragm essentially rebuilds your regulator if done properly.

 

By the way, that sentence in your first post "Connected power to pin in all connector and had pressure at rail..." - are you saying that you jumpered the ALDL connector pin for the fuel pump to run? Is that still the only way that the pump runs? Or do you hear it pressurizing up in the first two seconds after the key moves to the "on" position?

Reason I ask is to see if you have some problem with the fuel pump relays as well....Others who know chime in thanks -

 

Hello there Treetopflyer56!
Welcome to the Corvette Forum!

One more item you might want to check is the Fuel Supply and Fuel Return lines. With modern gasoline having ethanol it absorbs moisture like brake fluid does. I have seen Corvettes that have sat for a while get rusted up fuel lines. The lines can rust shut internally with no sign outside of the line. I measured the fuel flow getting to the Fuel Filter from the factory lines and then a Rubber hose bypassing the factory lines. The difference was amazing. I ended up replacing the Fuel lines and the Brake lines just to be safe. The lines are available from Classic Tubing in upstate NY.

The not running the fuel pump can be caused by multiple items. I would apply 12 Vdc power to the fuel pump harness under the gas filler cap. Once I have power and see fuel flowing I moved further backwards in the electrical system. It turned out I had a Voltage drop of close to 2 volts inside the Corvette. This screwed up everything that depended on Battery Power. I found the source of my voltage drop and it was fairly easy to fix. Measure the voltage of the battery and then measure the voltage at the fuse panel, they should be the same or very close. If not then your fusible links likely have corrosion as mine did. On the 1988 there were 7 fusible links that get their power at this point. The post was corroded and all the connectors were as well. If you need to find the post it is under and behind the battery under the side cover on the drivers side.

Ultralight's eh? I am a Private Pilot who likes Ultralights and has flown them several times. There is nothing like being 40' in the air cruising along over the tree tops without getting in trouble!

Let us know as soon as you can what you have found and we can go further down the rabbit hole troubleshooting your C4!

 

Front jacked up and #8 flooding could be plausible if you suspect fuel leaking pass FPR diaphragm as the fuel would be dumping into the plenum near #8.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-bad-pics.html

 

Whow I think you folks have experienced everything. While we were working on the injectors and fuel pressure we took a little break, I walked by the passenger rear wheel and I noticed a little wet spot on the concrete. That's nothing new except for where it was, I got the creeper and dang for the dorothy time, I see a little bulge in the return fuel line and some kinda blackish deposit got out the pocket knife and low and behold right in the middle of the bulge was a split, about 5/16 long and just open enough for gas to wheel out, so I gave them a good inspect and that was the only place. It was a low spot so water must have froze and burst the line rrc might there. And those lines are pretty tough
. Thanks again for your help. I really was thinking this car was going to start after I cleaned the fuel tank. Before I hooked up the new fuel filtering I blew out both line from the filter back. And, your guesses it the return line had a big build up.in it restricting the flow.

 

Each time I come to this Forum and someone has shared their knowledge with me I reply back and I always notice my handle ,Treetopflyer 56, and right below that it says (junior member) and I'll be , if that doesn't being a smile, it's been years since I've been a junior anything!!!
But now the next step is the fuel pump. Guys, I have to be honest, I really don't deserve to be here but I'm trying. When I cleaned out the fuel tank and did a pretty good job, the fuel pump was froze up. I worked on it a little and I had a couple laying around from some other projects. I wouldn't say I Mickey mouse stuff but looking up specs one of the fuel pumps had was I'm not going to say better but spec wise it out did the existing fuel pump. So I installed in the Corvette. It will build almost 60 psi and flow is better. The only reason I installed it was, 1, whow was it easy to change and I'm trying to save a buck cause I don't want to get partway and have to quit because of money. If I had to park it out back because I couldn't afford the parts it would probably be over. So when I can and I'm pretty confident the part is comparable oll install it. This isn't how I see the rest of you vette owners, I see folks that when they put in the effort they purchase the correct parts.. and I guess that's why I was leaning towards a adjustable fuel regulator. Does anyone see any problem there, I just wanted you all to know sometimes I use used parts. You give me your time and knowledge. Anyway I pray it all works out. I am purchasing new injectors, I'm not sure on pressure regulator, rebuild, or replace, fuel pump came out of a Suburan with a 454. I read something about the Corvette having a check valve, and I couldn't say for sure there was one in the Suburan.

 

Well treetopflyer you have got quite a project there in front of you.

Whenever one of us replaces the fuel pump we frequently eliminate the little gadget that is between the Fuel pump and the Fuel line. It is referred to as a "Pulsator" and likes to go bad. In its place we put a short section of hose connecting the fuel pump to the fuel line. Be sure the rubber line is designed for submersion in gasoline and can handle the Fuel Injection.

The pump we use is a Walbro that you will get as a replacement from a lot of places. I would not use any pump but the one specified for our L98's Fuel system. The same goes for the injectors, use the same size that came with the Corvette.

The fuel line that has the bulge and split in it, are you sure it is the return line? The one that ruptured on my Corvette was in front of the passengers side rear wheel and was clearly the fuel Supply line on my C4. The right way to fix this is to buy the tubing and replace the Fuel lines. I bought a set for my C4 from Classic Tubing and have been very happy.

When you have time be sure that your brake lines don't have any bulges in them either. I would also rebuild the Fuel pressure regulator as there is little doubt it will need it. The rubber diaphragm goes bad from exposure to ethanol. Again I would stick with the part that is made for your Corvette. I found a bulge where it looks like a snake that ate an olive. It is just a low spot where the water collects. Whatever you do be sure to flush the brake fluid and any other fluid like Power Steering Fluid. If ONE line is compromised assume they all are until tested and proven otherwise. I would be really careful about driving a Corvette if it hasn't been used in years. My Pre-Drive would have me really look at that Corvette's braking system. After I saw a drip on my brake line near the ABS controller I stepped hard once on the brake and the bad line broke off and fluid went everywhere on my driveway. I was happy to have it happen at home in my driveway! I ordered a set of Brake lines from the same folks at Classic Tubing and they are pre-bent to make it easier to install them. You have the choice of what kind of metal, Steel or Stainless Steel and all the ends are terminated the proper way which made it easier.

Are you planning on modifying this engine of yours? I would not waste the money on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, stick with the stock one and the car will be happier. This is a place to not spend money UNLESS you have a reason to do it.

I assume you are familiar with RockAuto and the great prices they have. I would find the best price and buy the part from whomever has the best price. Shop around. It is a shame you live in the other half of our great Country as we have a great big Corvette only Car show every August and it is called Corvettes@Carlisle. I find more deals there than the rest of the year altogether. There are people selling new and used parts and the prices are negotiable. It helps make Corvettes a bit more affordable when you find shows like this. I order a lot from ZIP products but mostly because I get the stuff the next day from ZIP being in the same state helps.

"Junior" member or whatever, WHO really cares what they call you as long as they help answer your questions? I came here to learn and I have learned a lot about the C4's and C3's. I have a 1988 C4 and the 1968 C3. My C3 is a whole lot easier to work on without specialized knowledge but even with that I have learned so much about them just reading the posts. I understand the L98 a bit better than I would like too. It is a very straightforward system once you play with it for a few years. I have had my C4 since I bought it in the early 1990's. I like the C4 for the design and how it works, the C3 is a factory 427 Corvette and is my scary fast Corvette. The C3 has no A/C but the C4 does and that helps make the decision on which to drive.

I love to help others with their C4 issues but primarily the L98 years. It is fun to give back to others who ask for answers. Take a moment and fill out the profile so folks won't keep asking what year it is. Have a great Day!

 

Hi yall, i really had no idea when i came here what to expect! I got suprused (scared) by that flame ball that came out from my car when ut was locked up and pulled the plugs, ( dont crank it) and cranked it.
. Anyways since then, i came here! Hoping to prevent those kinda things from happening again. And with all of your help im sure the odds are getting better and better those wont happen any more. When i found that split in the fuel line i mentioned it here. A number of you responded with other things to look for and i inspected the rest of the fuel lines visually abd thet looked ok. In one post i received he mentioned taking a look at my brake lines, this morning i was under the car just cleaning the tranny, and remembered the post, and since i was under it anyway u decided to give the lines a quick once over. Your all unbelieveable!! Sure enought on the rear axle where the brake line makes a 90° bent it looked like my fuel line, a slight buldge, got out the picket knife and it's hard to see this one, its not this big split, its more like a perforated area in the bulge, i got in the car and gave the brakes a pretty good slam, tgey seemed fine, but when i went back and looked sure enought it was a little damp. I knew the brakes were spongy but without the car running its hard to really troubkeshoot, but pads are all nice a nbn d thick but the brake rotors are rusty, just slightly pitted. I was going to pack bearings and grease the frontend. Whike the rotors were off (dependingon condition) i was going to just taje a DA with 120 of 180 sandpaper to clean them up.
. Anyways, back to the brake line. When i slammed the brakesut didnt break, do you think that with vacumn assist ut would have? Just right there, someone here save me a lot of money and probably alot of pain, depending upon what i drove into!!!! Thsnks agsin guys! Sure wish i could buy yall a beer!!!

 

Cleaning up your rotors is not a bad idea as long as there is not pitting on the surface. They are not that expensive at RA ($17 each) so don't kill your self trying to repair the old one. The pits are the bad part as they lead to premature brake pad wear.
Greasing the front wheel bearings is not a bad idea, while you are at it grease the ball joints. While you are under the Corvette you might want to hose down the emergency brake with penetrating oil to get it freed up. They like to freeze up in place when not used for a while.

That is great your brakes are still okay after the years of absorbing water. Be aware that on my Fuel Supply Line there was no evidence of corrosion on the out side but the internal part of the tube was rusted shut.

To improve on the brakes I would suggest a set of the SS braided Hose Brake lines that connect the caliper to the chassis. They are not expensive and the original brake hoses are likely shot. The SS braided jackets keep the lines from expanding and gives you a better pedal feel.

As to your Fireball, it is not good to have a spark nearby when testing your compression and having gasoline mixed with air getting ignited. I remove the power to the coil when I tested my engine last. They suggest you remove the fuel pump fuse to disable the fuel pump while you are testing the compression.

When I do a compression test I get a Fire extinguisher and have it handy. I then disable the fuel and Ignition fuses and put the fuses aside. Then I attach a Battery charger and charge the battery up completely. After this I use a tie wrap to secure the throttle Body wide open. Then I do the test and get fairly consistent results.

Bleeding the brakes can be a real PIA if you do it the old way using two people. I use a Phoenix Reverse Bleeder which Pushes the brake Fluid UP from the Caliper to the master cylinder. When bleeding your brakes be sure to turn on and off the ignition to get the ABS to cycle the fluid through. Getting all the air out is not the easiest on these C4's partially due to the very early design ABS braking system and the long lines.

You are absolutely right about learning about brake problems before they cost your Insurance a bunch of money after you hit someone or something. Your Life depends on them working so be very careful. I did have a Master Cylinder Lock up while driving my C3 at 70+ mph in a 25 mph clover leaf. I touched it and it was like a rock was jammed in under it, the pedal wouldn't budge. Fortunately I was in my C3 with it's four speed manual gear box and was able to slow down using the engine. The rest of the way home I used the E-brake to stop completely at stop lights. I was L-U-C-K-Y that day, you can't depend on luck so be sure to have the brakes and the park/emergency brake working as well as it can and you will be safer.

From the fuel filter forward there are short metal lines that might need to be cleaned out as well. Up near the front of the engine you will see where they end.

Sounds like you are making some great progress!