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Egr valves do not hold vacuum.
when solenoid turns off, vacuum is sup posed to bleed off in a calibrated diameter vent.
called a bleed hole.
the valve should move while you pump the handy-vac, and then return to close after the vacuum bleeds off
see if u can get your money back on the valve.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 29, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
Egr valves do not hold vacuum.
when solenoid turns off, vacuum is sup posed to bleed off in a calibrated diameter vent.
called a bleed hole.
the valve should move while you pump the handy-vac, and then return to close after the vacuum bleeds off
see if u can get your money back on the valve.
Actually this is good information. I still believe the old EGR valve was at least partially bad, because even with lots of pumping I couldn't get the diaphragm to move. But I noticed the the new one, while it moved, didn't completely hold vacuum and I kind of ignored it, although it was in the back of my mind as a concern. I guess I have nothing to worry about then.
This morning I got the gaskets I needed and re-fitted the EGR pipe which was leaking, and MAN what an improvement to the noise problem. No more ticking under load - finally a significant improvement!
I was thinking this wouldn't affect idle though, and I was right - still rough and misfiring - seems to be actually worse at times. My next check will be the fuel filter, although I have doubts that even if the filter need replacement that it'll fix idle, because opening the throttle smooths it out and I have no reason to believe fuel pressure is dropping while throttle is applied.
On my 86 with TPI and a 383, i switched rh ex manifolds to later 89 style.
that gives a better egr tube and i found honda gaskets center hole can be reamed out a little with a “handyman’s” reamer.
so if you can’t find gaskets, the honda ones are $2.50 at autozone.
on the idle, i have fought that several times.
1. Bad plug,
2. bad wire ( should ohm less than 1200 ohms),
3. Pvc valve dirty
4. cracked dist. Cap,
5. Bad plug on distributor ( pink wire),
6. Loose wire inside distributor coil cap,
7, bad block ground below brake booster,
7. alternator not charging at idle
Fan coming on and off with temp.
8. Broken wire on coil
9. intermittent ignition switch
10. intermittent injector,
11, water leak, spraying dist cap,
12, loose timing chain,
13, broken valve spring,
14, bent pushrod
15, bad oil seal on a intake valve, filling cylinder with oil.
i have more but that’s what i have been through
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 29, 2021 at 07:57 PM.
My next check will be the fuel filter, although I have doubts that even if the filter need replacement that it'll fix idle, because opening the throttle smooths it out and I have no reason to believe fuel pressure is dropping while throttle is applied.
Maybe you can stop with the believing part since that is in realm of spirituality and get with testing if the fuel system can or cannot deliver under WOT? If you so desire and cannot afford a gauge, Autozone has them for loaner tools.
On my 86 with TPI and a 383, i switched rh ex manifolds to later 89 style.
that gives a better egr tube and i found honda gaskets center hole can be reamed out a little with a “handyman’s” reamer.
so if you can’t find gaskets, the honda ones are $2.50 at autozone.
on the idle, i have fought that several times.
1. Bad plug,
2. bad wire ( should ohm less than 1200 ohms),
3. Pvc valve dirty
4. cracked dist. Cap,
5. Bad plug on distributor ( pink wire),
6. Loose wire inside distributor coil cap,
7, bad block ground below brake booster,
7. alternator not charging at idle
Fan coming on and off with temp.
8. Broken wire on coil
9. intermittent ignition switch
10. intermittent injector,
11, water leak, spraying dist cap,
12, loose timing chain,
13, broken valve spring,
14, bent pushrod
15, bad oil seal on a intake valve, filling cylinder with oil.
i have more but that’s what i have been through
I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and wires so hopefully all is good there. I did NOT replace the coil though - just reused the current one. I mean, it looked fine but I’m sure you can’t see all the problems. Should I have put in a new coil?
I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and wires so hopefully all is good there. I did NOT replace the coil though - just reused the current one. I mean, it looked fine but I’m sure you can’t see all the problems. Should I have put in a new coil?
I can show you 20 coils that look good but don't work. Test it. Get a coil tester. Crank and see the flame. Either that or get ready to replace the car with something newer and runs perfectly. It will be cheaper than replacing anything and everything that can cause a problem. Less frustrating than eyeballing something and assuming it is good.
I have had my car for 22 years, i am the third owner, and it has 166,000 miles.
in it’s life, i had to overcome other’s mistakes.
i just listed most of the things i can remember.
read the caption under the L98 photo
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 29, 2021 at 09:35 PM.
My car only sees the street. So headers are a headache I don’t need to have.
I removed part of the weld where the ex manifold meets the head, in a sense, removing the ridge just as the exhaust enters the ex manifold, is kind of light
porting as to not remove any strength from the weld
apparently i did not suffer any reduction of torque either.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 29, 2021 at 09:54 PM.
I have had my car for 22 years, i am the third owner, and it has 166,000 miles.
in it’s life, i had to overcome other’s mistakes.
i just listed most of the things i can remember.
read the caption under the L98 photo
My car only sees the street. So headers are a headache I don’t need to have.
I removed part of the weld where the ex manifold meets the head, in a sense, removing the ridge just as the exhaust enters the ex manifold, is kind of light
porting as to not remove any strength from the weld
apparently i did not suffer any reduction of torque either.
What headaches? Your profile says you live in AZ. Are they smog ***** like CA? I really don't know. My TPIS headers (since LPE stopped selling them so I don't know) makes it so easy to change plugs. Especially for #8. So much so that my #2 and #4 takes more work and time than #8. For emissions reasons, absolutely. First case I ever heard of anyone using stock manifolds on a 383, hence the question.
Well i am using the factory TPI, I can’t get enough air into the engine to benefit from headers.
The car is only worth $7000-$10,000
if i break it, and put another $4000 engine in it, it’s still only worth $7,000-$10,000.
so if Lingenfelter wrote that he put-them on his performance builds, he had the data to back up that statement.
he supposedly put every engine his company built on a dyno.
don’t shoot the messenger
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jul 30, 2021 at 06:56 PM.
Well i am using the factory TPI, I can’t get enough air into the engine to benefit from headers.
The car is only worth $7000-$10,000
if i break it, and put another $4000 engine in it, it’s still only worth $7,000-$10,000.
so if Lingenfelter wrote that he put-them on his performance builds, he had the data to back up that statement.
he supposedly put every engine his company built on a dyno.
don’t shoot the messenger
I did talk to him personally when I was at his shop a couple of times. Even when I picked up my F-body with his 383 and was told that there was no way the trans lived for more than a year, he agreed that unless I was bound by emissions, headers were better. I can't say that I know anyone who has said that the headers weren't a gain over stock manifolds. Granted that was one day only when I toured it when he was drive tuning my ECM, I can't recall seeing even 1 car with stock manifolds unless it was something they were going to work on. I did see some run of the mill C4 that turned out on the front page of Car and Driver a month later. I did buy that book with an autograph.
Still struggling a bit with the car running rough. At times it starts missing quite badly, not just at idle but at stable cruise I can feel it. I replaced the fuel filter, and am now wondering about the injectors possibly being clogged. If one was sticking open that would explain fuel pressure bleed after engine shutoff. But as I said it's inconsistent - will run relatively well for a while and start missing later. I'm not really keen on taking apart the fuel rail just yet. Someone mentioned fuel injector cleaner a while ago. If I really have some issues with clogs will this likely help much?
Still struggling a bit with the car running rough. At times it starts missing quite badly, not just at idle but at stable cruise I can feel it. I replaced the fuel filter, and am now wondering about the injectors possibly being clogged. If one was sticking open that would explain fuel pressure bleed after engine shutoff. But as I said it's inconsistent - will run relatively well for a while and start missing later. I'm not really keen on taking apart the fuel rail just yet. Someone mentioned fuel injector cleaner a while ago. If I really have some issues with clogs will this likely help much?
If you test you can know if it is leaking or not. If you want something cheap, easy and makes you feel like you did something, go to your parts shop and buy whatever snake oil is on sale.
If you have Multecs the snake oil you use to do a lazy cleaning might toast them. What the video doesn't show is how to know BOTH spray pattern and volume. That requires a flow bench.
If you have Multecs the snake oil you use to do a lazy cleaning might toast them. What the video doesn't show is how to know BOTH spray pattern and volume. That requires a flow bench.
Not sure what you mean by a flow bench - but I have never looked at injectors before so my tool set for this particular diagnosis is limited. I don't have an injector tester for example - thinking of getting a relatively cheap one like he links to, but will do the electrical testing first before spending any $$.
Is there a way to tell if my injectors are Multecs or not? Previous owner supposedly changed them out, but I don't know when or which type.
Not sure what you mean by a flow bench - but I have never looked at injectors before so my tool set for this particular diagnosis is limited. I don't have an injector tester for example - thinking of getting a relatively cheap one like he links to, but will do the electrical testing first before spending any $$.
Is there a way to tell if my injectors are Multecs or not? Previous owner supposedly changed them out, but I don't know when or which type.
They also do change the filter basket that picks up any crap that gets past the filter. So if there is rust in the line past the filter, that is what traps it. You can take it out and all that but by the time you go that far, if they are not Multecs, I'd pay someone to give me a flow sheet. If they are, get a reman set and toss the Multecs in the trash like they belong.
Trying to understand why my #1 cylinder doesn't seem to be firing. Disconnecting the injector while it's idling doesn't do anything at all. I was wondering about an electrical problem so started to dig into that.
I notice there is power on BOTH contacts at the injector connector (test light illuminates when touching either contact and ground). Is this normal? I expected power on only the pink/black wires. But it appears to be on the blue and green wires as well. I soon realized that it could be because the other injectors that were plugged in were completing the circuit, so I disconnected all injectors, and same thing.
I also confirmed with a spark tester that spark is getting there.
I had all injectors off and used a tester to run carb cleaner through them. They all worked, and I confirmed that none are stuck or leak. So I'm kind of stuck!
Ordered a scan tool (it should arrive tomorrow), so crossing my fingers something there will give a clue.
Egr valve
