No way Jose’ !
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Likes: 8
No way Jose’ !
Good grief! Finally get around to try to replace the back up light switch on my 90 ZF transmission. I’ve been reading the posts on here for months, yes it’s a little difficult but it can be done…..not by me apparently.
The car is on the lift, I remove the “X” brace (it’s a convertible), back out the bolts holding the slave cylinder, as we need room to get in there.
There is nowhere for the slave to go….the hydraulic line is on the top, with the bleed nipple…. It’s jammed up next to the tunnel.
Arrrgghhh! How are you doing this? I must be missing a trick?
Angry and anxious…..
The car is on the lift, I remove the “X” brace (it’s a convertible), back out the bolts holding the slave cylinder, as we need room to get in there.
There is nowhere for the slave to go….the hydraulic line is on the top, with the bleed nipple…. It’s jammed up next to the tunnel.
Arrrgghhh! How are you doing this? I must be missing a trick?
Angry and anxious…..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 68
From: Providence RI
The slave is held on by two nuts. It seems the whole stud backed out on you. The studs should have a reverse torx head on them. You need go break the nut free from the stud, tighten the stud down, and then remove the nuts / slave.
I know those two studs very well. They broke the bottom of my windshield when I was reinstalling my motor / bell housing.
I know those two studs very well. They broke the bottom of my windshield when I was reinstalling my motor / bell housing.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 383
From: Northern California
No, they won't go in all the way. They are studs, not bolts.
When you take the nuts that hold the slave cylinder off, then those studs are able to be unscrewed out of the bellhousing. Use an E7 reverse Torx socket, found at your local auto parts store (they are cheap and individually available usually). Use that E7 socket to get both those studs out, then your slave cylinder will move further downward out of the way. You can reach the backup light switch with an open-end wrench but it's hard. It's easier if you get one of those crows-feet sockets designed for oxygen sensors. At least it was for me.
When you take the nuts that hold the slave cylinder off, then those studs are able to be unscrewed out of the bellhousing. Use an E7 reverse Torx socket, found at your local auto parts store (they are cheap and individually available usually). Use that E7 socket to get both those studs out, then your slave cylinder will move further downward out of the way. You can reach the backup light switch with an open-end wrench but it's hard. It's easier if you get one of those crows-feet sockets designed for oxygen sensors. At least it was for me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 68
From: Providence RI
I never had to remove the studs to remove the slave on my 91. Only difference is that I have long tubes and true duals so that may have made my access a little better.
don’t be afraid to loosen the slave and manually push the slave housing to the bell housing. This will compress the piston and give you more wiggle room to sneak the slave out of the way.
don’t be afraid to loosen the slave and manually push the slave housing to the bell housing. This will compress the piston and give you more wiggle room to sneak the slave out of the way.
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