okay i am at my wits ends here and completely frustrated, i have replaced my entire clutch system with new master and slave cylinders and the dual mass conversion clutch from ecklers, i know it isn't the best choice, i'm certain of that but, i cannot get it to bleed for the life of me and i just don't see how there can be any air left in the system. when the cart is sitting there jacked up on 4 jack stands not running... i should be able to press the clutch pedal and have the rear tires spin while it is in gear, correct? or does it need to be running. i have tried reverse bleed with a home made garden sparyer thing i rigged up like a pheonix bleeder and got quite a bit of air out that way. i have pumped and pumped and pumped the pedal with bleeder tight cap off. cap on.. i have removed the slave cylinder and pushed the rod all the way in i have done everything i can think of and everything i have read that works. i just don't know what i am doing wrong here. aside from possibly just bad new parts or wrong parts in right box. if i pull the slave cylinder off the pedal is rock hard and you have to hold it with extreme pressure to make the pedal go down, but i did sit there for 7-8 minutes forcing that pedal until it went to the floor but it was hard.
any thoughts or suggestions will be really appreciated for sure..

one thing in my mind here is.. when i put the clutch and pressure plate on it said tighten pressure plate bolts to 35 pounds of torque so i did, against my gut feeling. but is that whats wrong here?

 

..... Put it on the ground and drive it ... are you thinking that you over or under torqued the pressure plate bolts ? exactly how would the pressure plate bolt torque have ANY affect on bleeding or actuating the clutch ? .....

 

i don't know, just reaching for answers i guess at this point. the tires will not free spin while i have it in first gear and push the clutch pedal down, that is telling me the clutch is not releasing, right?

 

okay so, i just went out and put it in 6'th gear instead of 1'st tires still didn't want to move very well but i kept pulling. all the sudden i heard some tingy noises down there and it started spinning easier, maybe some of the fingers were not quite lined up good or who knows but it is working now in all gears i can go from locked up tires with no clutch pedal to spinning when clutch is pushed. only thing is now i have lost a little pedal so maybe it will self bleed from there like it is supposed to do. thank you c409 for making me try harder. and fyi for anyone in the future who has problems bleeding the rotten sob's... you can absolutely make a home made pheonix style reverse bleeder out of a 10 dollar garden pump sprayer, just you tube it. did it alone with no helpers even. i think i am finally on the way to putting it all together and hearing this motor run after a year and a half of covid BS of no parts to buy and everything just crappy rotten


cars new name is officially NIGHTMARE

 

just basically a backyard polished crank, rering refurbished everything i could because there was nothing to buy due to covid while i was doing. lunati .515/.530 voodoo cam lunati full roller rockers, dart 180 cc shp gasket match ported intake and exhaust sides, with matching dart stud girdle... hookers 1 3/4 tube header with pypes race pro exhaust with x pipe. edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake with holley 750 ultra double pumper. stock mahle piston stock hand polished crank stock oil pump with high pressure spring installed new rings/rods and cam bearings...pro form electric water pump, ac , air pump and all idler/ tensioner pully deleted all done by me no outside sourcing what so ever. i did ever bit of work to engine myself. have a afr gauge i will be using to tune with and mount that on the pillar post so i can see it at wot. it should run good. 6 speed with dana 44 and 3.42 ratio. and for those of you saying wtf CARB...??? the car was already on fire and melted the original fuel injection before it was mine due to a leaky o ring at the injectors. the guy i bought it from had it completely hacked up. and beside i LOVE the sound of a good carb hitting hard

 

a new clutch disc still has high and low spots on it until run in with engine turning to smooth out the first time. a several thousands outta flat will prevent you from turning wheels by hand. when a clutch is fully depressed there is approx 010 clearance between flywheel and disc...Start car in neutral and gently try to put car in gear if grinds then for some reason pressure plate is not being depressed enough to allow clearance of 010........Years ago I drilled a hole in the bottom of my Lakewood bellhousing directly below disc and flywheel while a friend stepped on clutch pedal while i checked with a feeler gauge to see i had at least 010 clearance.... anything less than 010 is un acceptable, look for missed shifts and car wanting to creep on you even with pedal fully depressed....... good luck my friend

 

..... New clutch discs are not necessarily perfectly flat ... it sometimes takes a bit of run-in to smooth them out .....