:mad :mad :mad :mad :mad

I was torquing in the circular pattern and the 2nd to last bolt snapped at around 55lbs I am guessing.

Now I have to take the whole damn head back off.

Should I hela-coil or tap it out?


:sad: :sad: :mad :mad

 

Been there done that, I drilled with a smaller drill then used a tool that is for extracting, and reversed the drill and pulled it out. On another particular fun day I had to drill out the bolt completely and re-tap it but it can be done either way.

 

Sorry to hear about the head bolt, I'm assuming you have tried all of the various ways to remove what's left of the bolt?
If you must repair the threaded hole I don't recommend Heli-coils, as they are a "wound-wire" type of thread repair insert. Granted they will work though & you will most likely never know the difference.
If you want to put a top notch thread repair insert in your block there is an alternative to the Heli-coil, they are known as Keenserts, unlike Heli-coils they are manufactured from a single piece of material & hold torque readings much better. Here's a link to a Keensert install site;
http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm :seeya

 

Not sure of the terminology here.

If you broke a head bolt, meaning the bolt was separated from the threads, that is one problem. Should this have occured, you will likely have to remove the head. The good news is with the head off, there SHOULD be no torque on the remaining portion of the bolt, and with the proper tooling, back the thing out. If the bolt had "bottomed out" then the process could be more difficult. Would also check to see if the proper length bolt was used. Please don't ask how I know about making this mistake, along with stripping threads, dropping washers down manifolds, installing things upside down, etc.

Now, if the threads are stripped, a different problem. Likely both a ruined head bolt AND block threads needing evaluation. Perhaps you MAY be able to use a quality tap, clean threads, proper bolt and all is well. Hope so. There is an entire science devoted to the subject of fasteners. Check and see if the ARP web site has any info. They are very good. I usually clean the threads, visual inspection, pray, put it together and make sure I use a good torque wrench.

If the application is stock, somewhat larger variance may be possible. If the engine is nitrous, blower, etc, ah, then more effort is required.

Let us know. Hope things work out. Either way, most likely the head comes off and find out what went wrong. Why did the bolt/threads fail?

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

While we are on the subject, one more question, were you using used head bolts? I would always use new head bolts when putting an engine together.

 

Ok, I just went and pulled the head. The metal of the bolt twisted and snapped. I find this very strange since I had the TQ Wrench (A Snap-On $200 one at that) set at 60 FT/LBs, there is no way the bolt should have twisted and broke.

It's about 1 cm below the engine block. The engine block threads are good, the bolts are brand new OEM bolts.

I am going to take some pics and drill the bolt out and use one old bolt in that space unless they sell head bolts singly, I am not going to pay $25 for the whole set again.

:mad

Thanks for the help.

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

Allways use new bolts, you would be suprised how much those bolts stretch!
If it were me get the ARP bolt set and call it good!

 

Were you using any lubricant on the threads?

The ARP assembly lube / thread sealer really makes putting the bolts in easy. It's great stuff and well worth the money. ARP bolts are top notch as well. If you broke a new bolt, I wouldn't try an old one, just my $.02

 

I did notice that they stretch. I just can't believe a new bolt broke. I got the passenger side head torqued and the headers back on. I got the stuck bolt out too... it was easy... I drilled a small hole and used an easy out.

I guess tomorrow I will get the other head and header on with the lower and upper intake.

Thanks for the help! :D :cheers:

 

Before you drill try using a sharp pointed chisel and try to work the stud out by tapping it out to unscrew it. Sometimes if it's not to frozen this will work. good luck. :cheers:

 

:iagree: