I’ve got an 87 C4
In regards to ur intake install
just a thought
once the intake n block r clean n ready for install
b4 u apply any sealant

take the intake n place it in place several times- remove obstructions
i did mine from passenger side- easier for me
try to set it down vertically gently- n try to install a few bolts scattered around the intake see if they’re all aligned

get proficient at setting it down where the bolt holes r all aligned
ex start threads on various bolts scattered around intake
this ensures u don’t have to move it
or worse yet attempt to thread the last couple bolts n they’re not aligned

what bit me- I have vortec heads
on driver side rear intake bolt by firewall wasn’t aligned- n it was last bolt to install
the rest seemed fine
it stripped/ it was misaligned just slightly n it bit me😂
This removes a lot of the guesswork

once ur confident let her rip

Gary😎🇺🇸

 

I will do that Starlifter, thanks. A dry run never hurt anything.
I finally got the intake off the car and will clean the heads and block surfaces tomorrow.
I plan on having my brother blast the manifold and i am going to paint it aluminum.

 

To Starlifter's point, he's right; you don't want to set the intake down on fresh RTV at the china wall, and then find out that you're not lined up with the bolt holes and you have to start sliding the intake manifold forward/backward/sideways. That will basically distort your fresh RTV bead so that a good seal there is impossible. The goal is to set that manifold down with everything as close to lined up as you can get it. Then it just pulls itself straight down when you install and torque the bolts.

What I have done recently is go to Ace or any other hardware store and get some set screws / headless bolts in 3/8" x 16 threads per inch x 1 1/4" long (https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/25558) and before you do anything just put two of those on one head (either left or right side). Don't put them across the engine from each other, put them on one side head. Then, those act as pegs that you can slide the intake manifold down onto, knowing that your bolt holes are aligned. Then you can just use an Allen key and unscrew the set screws from the head, and your bolt holes are lined up for the real bolts to go down and torque them.

 

That sounds like a great idea...I will get those set screws....thanks

 

So when I removed the intake there was a little coolant on top of the block. I take it that came from the intake water passages?
I am going to clean the intake manifold today. When I remove the tray or whatever that is called on the bottom side, is there anything special I have to do when I put it back on?
I did notice that one of the ports on the passenger side of the manifold and head was almost plugged with black material, is this the exhaust port? It is the smaller center port?

 

Well let's just assume that yes that coolant is from when you took the intake manifold off, because if it was leaking from the water passage beforehand you would have seen coolant in your oil and noticed the drop in coolant level over time. So yep.

When you remove that oil splash shield from the bottom of the intake manifold, as you reinstall those four bolts make sure to put Loctite (blue or orange, I think orange is better here) because you don't want those bolts coming loose and dropping into your engine.

The port you refer to is the EGR gallery port and yes it's usually carbon buildup. If that manifold is washed or part cleaned at a machine shop they'll get that clean, or you can clean it carefully to avoid creating debris that's loose.

 

When I connect the inlet and outlet fuel lines to the fuel rail, do I use anything on those fitting threads? And what about the bolts for the EGR valve and the thermostat housing bolts?

 

You need new O-rings for both of those fuel lines. Others on this forum familiar with the part numbers for the 1986 model year should be able to help you with that.

On those lines, use PTFE thread sealer (white goop) on the threads of the hex fittings. The O-rings provide the primary seal, the PTFE thread sealer is just a backup.

EGR Bolts I think would benefit from a small amount of blue Loctite, the thermostat housing bolts I'd use the PTFE thread sealer.

 

So let me explain how I got to where I’m at on this car. When I first got the car it was not very clean under the hood and I knew from the start that I wanted to clean it up. There was greasy oily grime around the power steering pump area
and water pump area and I also wanted to restore the brown valve covers and paint the runners and plenum also. I also wanted to change the rubber hoses as insurance against failure.
I was told that the a/c compressor was no good from the people I had got the car from so I knew I was going to be replacing the compressor and I was going to convert to R-134a.
Well I fell into that “ well since I’m here I may as well do that too” hole and here I am.

My problem is that I am a perfectionist and I can’t leave things be. This is what I have done so far:
1. I removed the alternator and the air pump and the brackets for these.
2. I removed the power steering pump and bracket and decided to replace the three power steering hoses and line along with the power steering pump.
I used a whole lot of elbow grease and simple green to clean the mess around the power steering rack and so forth.
3. I removed the a/c compressor and bracket and belt tensioner and when cleaning the front of the block, I decided to change the water pump for good
measure since I was already there. I drained the anti-freeze and went to town.
4. I got the block and other areas as clean as I could and I glanced over at the radiator shroud and here we go again. I had read about how these cars suck
up debris so after removing the shroud, I decided to remove the radiator to clean that area. Once the radiator was out I had my brother in law check it for leaks and it came back good.
5. Then the thought of replacing the a/c compressor and converting to R-134a came back to mind. Knowing that I only want to do this once, I removed all of the a/c hoses, the orifice, accumulator,
and removed the condenser and had my brother in law check that for leaks also and it too came back good.
6. I removed the plenum and runners to clean and repaint and then I ended up removing the fuel rail to clean it up too.
7. I removed the valve covers to restore them. I reinstalled the covers and my mind started focusing on the intake manifold. It had a couple of small pools of oil in 2 spots and it looked kinda
nasty so I thought what the hell, since I’m in it this far may as well remove it and clean and paint it.
8. I installed new spark plugs and will replace the wires after I reinstall the manifold and distributor.

So that’s how I got to the point of asking about removing the distributor.
After removing the intake manifold and while cleaning the head and block surfaces of any gasket material, I somehow glanced over at the two hoses attached to the heater core.
Being a glutton for punishment I have decided to replace the heater core so that I know it will not come back to haunt me after doing all this work.
So should I have my head examined or what?
Tomorrow I will install the intake manifold and the thermostat and upper radiator hose and start on the heater core and water heater control valve, This will complete the cooling system
connections and allow me to add water and flush the system once the car is back to running.
Then:

1. I will install the fuel rail and the new Delphi 22lb matched set of injectors I got from Fuel Injector Connection. The original fuel injectors look to be the originals and I did not trust them.
2. I will install the intake runners and plenum and connect the throttle body and all connections.

That leaves me with the a/c system. I have been told that the hoses I have are not compatible with the R-134a refrigerant. I have to decide what to do about this before I can connect all of the a/c system back up.
So then I am left with a car that needs the following before it can be started:

1. power steering fluid filled and checked
2. radiator filled with water for flushing
3. a/c system and compressor that needs to be prepared

Oh and I will make an appointment to see my psychiatrist.

Any thoughts on how to make this happen as smoothly as possible?

 

1. Prepare to find that your steering rack will be leaking fluid when used from the age of those seals in the rack. Good move on replacing all the hoses and O-rings if you did that.
2. Make that appointment you're talking about making.
3. Remind yourself that all this work you are doing is nearly impossible to have done at a shop unless you're rich, because that work you've described is well over $4K in labor alone if done at a shop or (God forbid) a dealer.
4. Take pride in knowing that you have the mechanical skill to do this work, which most people today can't do. Have a beer.
5. Remind yourself again that you've won a car that most people will never get to own, enjoy the hell out of it.
6. Prepare to revisit Step 1 and start all over again when you find "_______" is leaking or has failed. Repeat to fade.

Cheers!

 

Ok, I have the gaskets glued to the heads using a small amount of the Gaskacinch on the whole surface of the gasket and matching area on head. When you mentioned Gaskacinch around the water jacket area gaskets what do you mean by that?
I have decided to use the Oatey Great White pipe joint compound with PTFE on the bolt threads....would that be okay?

 

I was considering adding a real light coat of the Permatex 82914 Ultra Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker around the foor water ports. Would this be OK?

 

Up to you. When I was mentioning Gaskacinch around the water jacket areas, it's those four ports (2 frt / 2 bk) that I was referring to. Gaskacinch on the head around that port, and on the gasket around that port. Very light coat on both surfaces is enough. If you have that, also on the top surface of those ports where the manifold bolts on top. I think you're good without the RTV. Those blue gaskets are designed to work without sealers but the Gaskacinch is insurance in my view.

Yes on the Oatey stuff. I prefer the Permatex white PTFE thread sealer but they are largely the same.

 

Remember to torque using the FSM sequence on the manifold bolts. 35 ft. lbs. for my year - check the specs on your year car. Once snug, tighten a little bit at a time using that sequence to final torque values. Then try not to mess with those bolts anymore.

 

OK thanks for all your help......I guess the next closest thing would be you installing it for me....LOL

 

Ok, I got the intake on. I used the right stuff on china walls and am having second thoughts. After completing the tightening sequence I checked the ends of the blocks and I don't see any squeeze through of the rtv. I put a good 1/4 inch bead down. Should I be seeing some kind of squeeze out between manifold and block?

 

If you had a good 1/4" bead down consistently across the wall you're good. Most of us (me included) put down too much and it doesn't help that you see squeeze out in front or back. In fact, extra squeeze out on the inside of the wall can break off later and go down the engine into the pan / oiling system - not likely but it can happen. You should be fine. If you're concerned, get a small angle mirror and just shine a bright light onto it and look at the manifold / block joint closely. You should see a black sealer line across the whole gap.

 

Well you were correct. Iused a mirror an a bright focused light and iI could see a continuous bead looked to be about 1/8" front and b ack. Now to get that distributor put back in

 

I got the distributor back in...it took several attempts but I am 99 % sure I got it back where it was.
I installed the thermostat but didn't put anything on the bolt threads, will that create a problem?

 

Nope, not really. If you want to be safe remove them and put some PTFE sealer, but honestly depending on the gasket you used it won't make much difference.