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TB bypass-a couple hp
MAF screens removal-on MAF'd L98s it gives a couple hp, Lt1s not so much.
160 thermo-by itself it doesnt help, but in conjunction with a fan switch to keep the temps down you stay in the prime temperature range for maximum hp
K&N w/ cut lid-5+hp
Frisbee removal on later L98s-10hp
TB bypass-a couple hp
MAF screens removal-on MAF'd L98s it gives a couple hp, Lt1s not so much.
160 thermo-by itself it doesnt help, but in conjunction with a fan switch to keep the temps down you stay in the prime temperature range for maximum hp
K&N w/ cut lid-5+hp
Frisbee removal on later L98s-10hp
There really is no "CHEAP" or "FREE".......HP add's for the vette....wished at the tender age of 16 that there were......but even when I was this age.....there was nothing cheap...or free......(had a '33 ford with a flat head),
Good Luck to "you"
You hang in there.......OK????
Life seems so much easier when your young...............gosh to be 16 years old again and know what I know now.....unbeliveable....WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
tony
:thumbs:
Fill me in on something here.. I've put the K&N open lid on, but the screen that you can remove from the MAF, anything in particular I should know before ripping it out?
I took mine out (MAF screen) W/O any improvement, I ended up with a Granatelli MAF, not much improvement there either but I still run it.
In my discussions with Brian at PCMFORLESS (Big F & B body guy) he claims they get 400 plus HP out of various vehicles with the stock MAF & screen.
There is a school of thought that says that screen is in there to straighten & smooth the airflow so that it flows evenly over the entire length of the actual hot-wire sensor.
JBaker, If you want to remove the screen, just take off your intake duct boots, remove the retaining "C-Clip" from the alum housed MAF and carefully push the screen out the front. Don't touch or damage the small wires in the middle of the MAF.
Keep the parts & you can always put it back in, the whole process should take less than an hour. :)
Don't you think the younger guys learn from us.....please don't FLAME ME....
But sometimes we must guide these guys.....they just don't know any better....like just like us at that age....did you ever listen to anyone giving you thier best thoughts about something....I never did.....I always knew bette!!!
:eek: :eek: :eek:
I would say in the cheap mod catagory I would start by making sure the car was running correctly to begin with (brass terminal cap and rotor, good plugs and plug wires, check timing). Then for L98 pull the plenum and port it and while it is off install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, cut the airfilter lid, install an K&N airfilter, remove the screens from the MAF sensor (if equiped).
Then you could install some ProForm 1.6 roller rockers (not cheap but about $160 for their self-aligning rockers).
Not sure how much extra power but should be a good start.
Cutting back the spark plugs is supposed to be good for 5-7HP. Removing the MAF screens is supposed to be helpful for the L98s, but not so much on the LT1s.
I gutted my air pump, I don't think it did anything though. Most of the resistance is in the bearing friction, which is nuts.
In order of ease that hasn't already been mentioned:
1. IAT Relocate 0.05 hp $0
2. IAC clean 0.01 hp $0
3. TPS adjust 1.2 hp $0
4. Bump the timing 6 hp $0
5. Torque Converter 0.3 seconds $250
6. Siamese the Intake Base 5 hp $20 for gaskets
7. Polish the heads 9 hp $60 for gaskets