1993 ruby violent shake when try to start
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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1993 ruby violent shake when try to start
I have a 1993 Ruby that I’ve owned for five years. 110K miles. Automatic. Never any trouble starting. Battery less than one year old.
When I went to start it this morning it turned over three of four times then all of a sudden “locked up” and did not start. Subsequent attempts to start resulted in a vibration so intense that I could feel it in the driver’s seat. Engine was not turning over. I’ve had starters go bad in cars before, but none were quite like this. Any ideas? Starter gear? Flywheel? Gave no warning of this whatsoever.
When I went to start it this morning it turned over three of four times then all of a sudden “locked up” and did not start. Subsequent attempts to start resulted in a vibration so intense that I could feel it in the driver’s seat. Engine was not turning over. I’ve had starters go bad in cars before, but none were quite like this. Any ideas? Starter gear? Flywheel? Gave no warning of this whatsoever.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,274
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From: Tacoma WA
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
It sounds like a hydrolock situation. Maybe an injector kept leaking fuel filling a chamber or possibly a coolant leak from a head gasket. You certainly do not want to keep trying to start it! Pull each spark plug and see if fluid is present in any of the cylinders. There is also a chance the starter somehow is locked against the flywheel. Less likely but possible.
If no fluid comes out from the cylinders when you remove each spark plug see if the engine turns over with the plugs removed and the fuel pump fuse removed.
If no fluid comes out from the cylinders when you remove each spark plug see if the engine turns over with the plugs removed and the fuel pump fuse removed.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
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How long since it was last started? I suspect that you have a bad head gasket that has allowed coolant to accumulate in a cyl and the engine is hydro-statically locked. Don't use the starter anymore!
Pull the rear two spark plugs, and check for the presence of liquid on them. Or if they appear to be really clean, like they are not firing, this is another indication of coolant in the cyl. If inspecting the rear two plugs isn't conclusive, pull the rest of them and spin the engine with the starter. If coolant is ejected, you found the problem.
Another possibility is a bad fuel pressure regulator that has allowed fuel to enter the plenum through the little vacuum hose on top of it. Remove the hose and check for liquid fuel. If found, you still have to clear the cyls by pulling the plugs, but be careful of cranking the engine if fuel comes out of the cyls. Big fire hazard. Also, change the oil
Pull the rear two spark plugs, and check for the presence of liquid on them. Or if they appear to be really clean, like they are not firing, this is another indication of coolant in the cyl. If inspecting the rear two plugs isn't conclusive, pull the rest of them and spin the engine with the starter. If coolant is ejected, you found the problem.
Another possibility is a bad fuel pressure regulator that has allowed fuel to enter the plenum through the little vacuum hose on top of it. Remove the hose and check for liquid fuel. If found, you still have to clear the cyls by pulling the plugs, but be careful of cranking the engine if fuel comes out of the cyls. Big fire hazard. Also, change the oil
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 5
If the fuel pressure regulator is leaking into the intake, there is fuel in the oil, so change the oil.
The aluminum head engines develop head gasket problems. 110k miles is about right. Usually at the rear. Hence the suggestion to check the rear cyls first.
You appear to have completely misinterpreted my response. I think it is hydro-locked, and I gave you the two most likely causes. Dude, I was trying to help. Go ahead and crank it over. When it kicks a connecting rod through the side of the block, you won't care what the problem was. The new engine will fix it.
The aluminum head engines develop head gasket problems. 110k miles is about right. Usually at the rear. Hence the suggestion to check the rear cyls first.
You appear to have completely misinterpreted my response. I think it is hydro-locked, and I gave you the two most likely causes. Dude, I was trying to help. Go ahead and crank it over. When it kicks a connecting rod through the side of the block, you won't care what the problem was. The new engine will fix it.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 5
Solved.
It was hydrolock by gasoline. Found gasoline in oil. Never actually ran under this condition so hopefully no serious permanent damage done. None is apparent at this time.
Fuel pressure regulator was defective and replaced. All injectors checked and within specs. ECM checked out as fine. Oil and filter changed and will be changed again very soon.
Running smooth and strong.
Fuel pressure regulator was defective and replaced. All injectors checked and within specs. ECM checked out as fine. Oil and filter changed and will be changed again very soon.
Running smooth and strong.
