so my starter may be on the way out - this may be premature - but in light of the need to shop for one of these - I thought let me get some opinions of what works best from the experienced and knowledgeable - is there a better brand than another - are the little ones worth considering if I may - stress may - want headers some day - are the rebuilt Remy's ok?
I am at a real loss - if this tests bad today - I have been lucky and have never had to replace a starter before - ever -

any thoughts and opinions - greatly appeciated

 

Any 88-91 starter clears headers fine, and can be installed on the 84-87.

 

Gear Drive starters are available from Summit and Jegs and the like. I put one on my C3's 427 over 25 years ago. This gear drive starter handled my 12.25-1 Compression ratio like it was a slant six. They are bulletproof and work great even where space is limited. Some of the aftermarket gear drive starters allow you to rotate the motor to get it into a position that will help you. I have never had any Heat Soaking with the gear drive starter and it spins the engine a bit faster making it easier to start.

Disconnect both posts on your battery before starting any work on the engine. Label the wires so you know the correct location on the new starter. Then remove the wires and push them aside out of the way. Now get your sockets and wrenches and go to work. Starter motors are not the most fun part to change but they are fairly straight forward. Just be ready to support the weight of the starter when you pull the bolts out, the factory starters are a little bulky and heavy. I have done my starter while the car is on Jack Stands and it was not the easiest but it is possible.

Whether you use a factory standard starter or a gear drive this is a great learning project and a good one for a new to Corvette mechanic. The only reason for me to use a Gear Drive over a factory starter is the reliability issue of a "new" unit versus a "rebuilt" unit. Rebuilt starters are not the most reliable starters out there anymore as the quality of the rebuilds has gone down hill for a while now. I had my original starter "beefed up a bit to help handle the compression but the factory style starter just was not up to cranking the 12.25-1. I am sure that the GM guys figured out a way to start the L88 engine's reliably. On my engine I pull 20* of timing to unload the starter when cranking and then with the gear drive it comes right to life. After installing and removing my factory starter several times I decided on the Summit Gear Drive Starter which weighs a fraction of the original starter and has enough power to handle up to 15-1 compression ratios.

A lot of the newer MSD and the like have a feature to pull timing when cranking the engine. Mine will pull up to 20* at 2* increments and returns the timing to normal at 600 to 800 rpm. If you did this with a factory Starter it would make the starter last longer and the engine start easier. Thank goodness that my new Holley Sniper Fuel Injection system will do this in it's control software.

Good Luck with your project and remember to clean ever battery power connection you come across. Good connections are a "MUST" on an Electronic Fuel Injected Corvette. If you have to take a picture of the factory wiring the way it was before you started working on it. It never hurts to be safe and sure!

 

any modifications needed?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p.../1985#overview

one like this?

 

Some people have had to shim, and a few have to lengthen the wire.

I did not have to do either when I put one on my 86.

 

I’d have a rebuild shop rebuild the original.

ive ran into shim issues with stock replacement ones before. Not worth it. Your original will not need shims.

I have a power master 9400 on my 1991 cause of higher compression and heat soak issues due to long tubes.

the main power wire was long enough but I did have to add shims between the mounting block and starter body.

I honestly think a rebuild of your OEM is the best way out.

 

I used ACdelco 336-1054 which is a later l98 starter on my 84. The positive did have to be lengthened about 6 inches to reach. I otherwise can't complain. No heat soak with headers and plenty of room.

 

168 teeth or 153?

 

if i did use the original - will headers fit?

 

The tooth count is only for the starter bolt type... iirc straight is 153, diagonal is 168...

As far as the factory non gear reduction starter fitting with headers... mine could've but let me tell you this... I took out a perfectly fine starter and put in the peanut one so that if it did crap out I didn't have to pull apart everything to replace it...

 

that's what i am trying to avoid - looking ahead - - for once in my life

 

i am going to ask another stupid question - i see some of these starters have 1/2 of a cone over the gears while others have a flat base - but both styles say they fit? it does not look like they would - the oe style seems to be the cone shaped one - is that preferrred?

 

Mine does not have the cone, works fine. The factory one did that it replaced. A lot of the gear reduction ones don't have the cone. Just a different design. Your hole on the bell housing may be open however.

 

is that a bad thing that i would need to plan for?

 

just a small hole... I made a piece of flashing to cover the opening so dirt couldn't potentially get in there. I ran it for a while without and didn't see an issue either. You can see on the older starters the flat part on the cone that sort of locks into the dust shield/inspection cover.

Edit: later and auto cars may be different than mine. Mine simply uses a piece of sheet metal to cover the bell housing front the oil pan side.

 

I have headers on my 86 auto. Factory starter was a pain but do able. I bought a hatochi gear driev starter to replacement. No problem puttin in or taking out. Works great. Got it thru Summit. Best of luck.

 

Yes, barely. But if you ever end up having to replace the starter with the headers on, you will not enjoy it.

 

Powermaster 9600 - Powermaster Mastertorque Starters

this is what summit recommended little more than i wanted to spend - but to those in the know with the mini starters - i have a small gap at the bottom. ghoastrider1 - i assume that is what you were mentioning - the guy at summit said no gaps - leave it to me to have one - my other stupid question (i believe this will be #73 ). the teeth are not engaged with the flywheel - should they be when it's installed? or do i need to try to start it first for them to engage? then will i be able to check the fitment of the the teeth? this is the first starter I have ever had to install so brand new all around - don't want to mess anything up if possible . . .

thanks

Sean

 

Teeth engage while cranking then pull out once started. Pull out on the starter gear and it will engage the flywheel/flexplate. It will stay locked until you bump the key.