When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all! I recently purchased a little bit of a fixer upper c4, when I purchased it the steering column was torn apart and basically irreparable, and it also didn't come with a key. I ended up purchasing a new steering column that was working off of eBay, however while I was waiting for that to come in the mail, I've been trying to test the vats resistance (since it didn't come with a key) by sticking a small screwdriver into the ignition switch I took off of the broken steering column and then hotwiring the vats bypass resistors onto the black and purple cable I've seen in YouTube videos, does the ignition switch need to be grounded for the starter to engage? The reason I ask is because I haven't been seeing the security light pop up when testing the vats resistance and I don't want to test all 15 vats bypass resistors if the process isn't even working. I'm assuming that either the security light on my instrument cluster is burnt out, or the entire steering column needs to be installed for me to properly test if the vats resistance is going to work. Thank you!
Is the column you purchased also for an AT? The eBay column has a key and it rotates as expected? Install the column complete and assure that the ignition switch connectors are correct! Rotate key to ON and see if the DIC responds appropriately with correct lights. Do you have the FSM? If key to ON lights the DIC appropriately you could then proceed with your attempts to CRANK using appropriate resistors. You can eliminate # 1. It wasn't used in '90. You do need to wait between attempts, 5 minutes should suffice ( a couple minute cushion) is often suggested. Observe the 'SECURITY' light. It's been mentioned that 4 consecutive incorrect attempts will require a 10 minute wait. I've never experienced that but I do also have a VATS Interrogator.
A '90 FSM would be a big +.
'90+ C4 with 'SECURITY' ON SOLID with key in RUN is thought to have a VATS/CRANK issue!
The column I purchased is for an automatic, we did install the column and the intrument cluster is responding properly when I crank it, except the security light isn't popping up which I've read could mean there is a short or the ecm is bad. The column I purchased on ebay does come with a key and the key works fine, to my knowledge everything was hooked up properly, there might be a bad ground somewhere because the turn signal isnt working entirely the way it should. Biggest thing im curious about is, I haven't seen the security light pop up once, when im testing the vats resistances, when im putting the key in and trying to crank it, etc. If the light isnt coming on does that mean I'm wasting my time? also I do have the FSM.
Edit: the column and key are for VATS 11. (is the vats resistance set in the ECU or the ignition cylinder?)
The column I purchased is for an automatic, we did install the column and the intrument cluster is responding properly when I crank it, except the security light isn't popping up which I've read could mean there is a short or the ecm is bad. The column I purchased on ebay does come with a key and the key works fine, to my knowledge everything was hooked up properly, there might be a bad ground somewhere because the turn signal isnt working entirely the way it should. Biggest thing im curious about is, I haven't seen the security light pop up once, when im testing the vats resistances, when im putting the key in and trying to crank it, etc. If the light isnt coming on does that mean I'm wasting my time? also I do have the FSM.
Edit: the column and key are for VATS 11. (is the vats resistance set in the ECU or the ignition cylinder?)
What does SECURITY do with KEY-ON/RUN not CRANK(ing). You mention cluster responds when you CRANK - I never mentioned CRANK, I mentioned KEY-ON/RUN not cranking. You've the FSM so read and learn! Does the car CRANK?
It doesn't light up regardless of what position the key is in unfortunately. The engine won't crank because of the vats issue, I used the wrong word my mistake.
Edit: now that I look at it, half of the lights on the instrument panel don't light up including the LCD, this combined with the lack of a security light coming on at all leads me to believe there is either a problem with the wiring harness, or the CCM is broken (I think that's what it's called).
I attached a few pictures and a video of me trying to start the car, I am so lost, anyone who could point me in the right direction would be super helpful.
I found these 2 cables sticking out behind the radio next to the CCM, does anyone know what these do and if they're important? the radio was an aftermarket radio from like 2010 that was professionally installed, I don't know if the cables are for the original radio or if they're for something important and that's why the car won't start.
We jumped the starter and the engine turned over, there must be some problem not engaging the starter when I turn the key, I assumed it was vats but the security light isn't and hasn't been popping up on the instrument cluster, the backlight for the LCD is working but the actual information won't pop up, I don't know if it's a bad relay or if there's a short in the electrical under the steering column to the starter or a bad ground, is there anyway to diagnose this? Also, thank you for the clarification about the radio cables
We jumped the starter and the engine turned over, there must be some problem not engaging the starter when I turn the key, I assumed it was vats but the security light isn't and hasn't been popping up on the instrument cluster, the backlight for the LCD is working but the actual information won't pop up, I don't know if it's a bad relay or if there's a short in the electrical under the steering column to the starter or a bad ground, is there anyway to diagnose this? Also, thank you for the clarification about the radio cables
It can all be diagnosed - you accomplished 'CRANK' with the jumper! You need to actually inventory the car for all of the electronics! Is the CCM present? Are all of the relays in the appropriate locations, theft deterrent needs diagnosed. It could be slow but if done in correct sequence it can certainly be corrected!
A complete FSM and some time spent reading/understanding should be your next move!