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So, I am continuing my journey to get this car straightened out to the best of my ability. I am going to revisit the sticking key issue and the steering wheel not locking, but I will check that park-cable adjustment first as WVZR has recommended.
I mentioned that I had a lock cylinder from my brother-in-law, but i have decided to go a different route. I know, I know, I will get accused of throwing parts at this thing, but I want to replace the lock cylinder before it bites me in the ***. I have gotten the following from Corvette Central:
It has the code 10 and I want to re-visit a question I had asked before. What exactly do I have to do once I get this installed? Do I take the keys with the resistor and have them cut to match the test key? And where would I have this done, a dealer or a locksmith? And what is this going to cost to have the keys cut?
Thanks for all the help to all have helped me with this car. Maybe I will get to drive the thing this year.
You need to start with 'park-cable' adjustment and assure it's operation. Could you have a column cylinder, rod/rack/switch issue? Sure!
It just shipped today and the way I take it is that it includes the 2 keys with the #10 resistor. The other 2 keys shown I would assume are the working keys that I would get the 2 with the pellets cut to match?
The one that Larry gave me does not include any VATs keys at all.
This just seemed like the easiest way for me to go. Am I wrong?
Following along, as the key for my new-to-me 1987 4+3 manual, also seems tricky to get into the Lock position and remove key. So far, if I play with it long enough it all of a sudden will pop into the lock position.
Thought this was likely a lock cylinder issue, but thanks to this thread I'm just now considering the 'park lock cable'. Sounds like this cable existed even on the manuals, using reverse gear. Is that correct?
Does anyone have a part number or even a picture for this park lock cable for the 4+3 manual?
Following along, as the key for my new-to-me 1987 4+3 manual, also seems tricky to get into the Lock position and remove key. So far, if I play with it long enough it all of a sudden will pop into the lock position.
Thought this was likely a lock cylinder issue, but thanks to this thread I'm just now considering the 'park lock cable'. Sounds like this cable existed even on the manuals, using reverse gear. Is that correct?
Does anyone have a part number or even a picture for this park lock cable for the 4+3 manual?
Thanks,
Josh
If you have a 'correct' FSM it's contained there. Several months ago a 'user' said he was struggling and insisted it was column cylinder related. After a long while he just went back to 'park lock cable' and spent some time and it corrected his issue.
If you have a 'correct' FSM it's contained there. Several months ago a 'user' said he was struggling and insisted it was column cylinder related. After a long while he just went back to 'park lock cable' and spent some time and it corrected his issue.
Thanks. I will check the FSM when I get home. Checking the parts sites (Zip, CC, Ecklers), they didn't seem to have anything that came up as a lock cable for the manual. Perhaps it's the same cable as the automatic.
Thanks. I will check the FSM when I get home. Checking the parts sites (Zip, CC, Ecklers), they didn't seem to have anything that came up as a lock cable for the manual. Perhaps it's the same cable as the automatic.
Looks like there are a few NOS available on eBay. Seeing the price, now I'm hoping its the lock cylinder again .
Adjustment or I actually believe it wouldn't be that difficult to actually defeat the 'park lock' function @ the column. The ignition rack, rod components all need to be operational for proper operation. The OP in this thread I believe maybe spent $$$ for something that the BIL had already. If his issue is 'park lock' the cylinder he's purchased may NOT actually correct his issue. The vendor is marketing a product that was required for all M6 cars as being correct for all. It ain't! '86 through '88 regardless of transmission used/requires the same cylinder.
WVZR, the cylinder came yesterday, and it does include those two # 10 keys already cut. So, to me it just seemed a lot more convenient to go this route. If I had used the one from my BIL I would have had to go to a locksmith and have him find the code and then cut 2 keys for me. Do you have any idea what the cost for that would have been? Just curious. Just a little FYI....I am 68 and I take care of a 63-year-old down syndrome brother, and my spare time is rather limited. So that I think is the main reason this approach worked best for me. I plan on looking into that cable before I do anything else though.
WVZR, the cylinder came yesterday, and it does include those two # 10 keys already cut. So, to me it just seemed a lot more convenient to go this route. If I had used the one from my BIL I would have had to go to a locksmith and have him find the code and then cut 2 keys for me. Do you have any idea what the cost for that would have been? Just curious. Just a little FYI....I am 68 and I take care of a 63-year-old down syndrome brother, and my spare time is rather limited. So that I think is the main reason this approach worked best for me. I plan on looking into that cable before I do anything else though.
You supplied the #10 code to vendor? I assume so & if that's fact and having the BIL provided cylinder I would guess 25$ should have done keys local, maybe less. A phone call to find keys. The FYI wasn't required. You're to be admired for taking care of family though. I see it several times a week. Do the 'park lock' check first and if it's not 'defeated' at the column you could still have issues. I have no idea.
OK, I checked the park lock cable, and all looks good with that.
I have gotten into the steering column and the first thing I did was loosen the 2 bolts holding the column to the brace under the dash and noticed the lock cable as shown in the pic not connected to anything.
What does the lock cable from the transmission connect to on the column?
The steering wheel has never locked since I have had the car, but I was able to turn the ignition to the lock position and remove the key before.
What will prevent the steering wheel from locking?
And could someone tell me what all of the linkages are?
It's difficult to confirm from your snapshots but the rod down the column from the rack and key cylinder pinion to ignition switch seems to be likely OK. It's difficult to tell without 'touch/feel'. You should be able to ID the rod to the 'dimmer' and the other is ignition rod/rack (switch to cylinder pinion).
WVZR, I was hoping you were going to reply . That listing showed me what I needed. Here she is:
It is obvious where it is supposed to be:
Would this part be the cable backdrive pin? And where does one get this part?
Now I understand that this was preventing me from getting the key to go into the lock position to remove the key, correct?
But does it also lock the steering wheel? Because the wheel has never locked as long as I have had the car, but I could get the key out before?
And how does it come out to be replaced?
Well, I got the new lock cylinder in and got everything put back together. I was not able to start the car because I had my battery off of the tender, so it needed to be charged. In the process of checking the key function, I noticed the key getting really floppy. So, I took it all back apart again and the cylinder literally fell apart in my hands.
So much for this $70.00 POS. I got this from Corvette Central part # 504397-1. I did not like the push button.
I decided to purchase the 86-88 All & 89-96 Auto Ignition Lock Cylinder w/Test Key from Zip. Item # LK-381. $50.00
I also discovered that the lock plate was installed backwards. I don't know if the locksmith that I had out last year had done this or if it was already like that before he got to it. Does installing it backward hurt anything?
This side that is showing should be installed facing out, am I correct?
Ok, I got the new lock cylinder and have it installed, but I am having an issue with the key warning buzzer switch assembly. With it installed it prevents me from turning the key in any direction. With it out, the key turns to all positions. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong here?
.
. That listing showed me what I needed. Here she is:
