Hi fellows.
I just want to be sure about this clutch position. What do you think about the installation indication on this face of the clutch disc? Is it oK or is it mislabeled?

 

the disk is correct. that side mates to the flywheel of a solid flywheel. it will not work with the dual mass flywheel. the disk for the dual mass flywheel has no springs.

 

I have a single mass flywheel. But when I install the clutch disc, it get in contact with the flywheel bolts.
this is my flywheel (Hays 10-530)

 

You are probably going to have to call Holley/Hays and find out what clutch disk actually works with that flywheel. I saw a few threads from more than a decade ago stating that the 10-530 will not work with any type of OEM sprung clutch disk. You would need a performance style aftermarket disk that has a shallower face on the flywheel side. Sounds like the people with the issues ran into the same problem. Contact at the flywheel bolts and clutch will not disengage.

 

you are right Krusty84. I called Holley and they told me that flywheel will not work

 

I started this next project with the objective of reducing the effort required (pedal effort) to disengage the clutch on my 327, 65 C2 coupe. (there are a couple reasons for this project that have to do with the wife and knee Issues) The first picture is of the MeCleoud clutch cover and the Luk I was planning to replace it with. The MeCloud is a nice unit, steel pressure plate and has functioned flawlessly. The Luk is not quite as nice, has a cast pressure plate but promises to have a lower actuation pressure. After installation of the LuK, I found that I ran out of "free play" adjustment, the diaphragm fingers on the LuK sit closer to the flywheel. Note the second picture.

This is the Summit recommended LuK clutch kit. I'm thinking that somewhere along the line one of the clutch "push shafts" was swapped out or "could my clutch fork ball stud be too short?" I have not been able to find a spec on any of the lengths for these parts, so I'm shooting in the dark right now on the best approach to solve the adjustment issue.

Another approach -

Someone from a previous post has suggested a different way to approach the clutch effort reduction task- by drilling a new hole closer to the pivot on the lower arm of the "clutch actuator bar" - Note third picture. In this situation I would continue to use the McLeoud set up. The distance from the existing hole to the pivot center is 4 inches. Shorting that distance to 3 inches would reduce the effort 25% and would also reduce the travel 25%. I believe the MeCloud travel is short enough such that it will still disengage with 25% less travel.

 

Sorry - put this post in the wrong place -