When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Update: Because I can't it what threads are left unresolved I wanted to post an update. I still have not removed the lock. Because we just moved, I just have been busy. Plan on trying to get it removed this weekend.
So I worked on it more today and popped the plastic clips holding the rods in place. I noticed that the plastic rod clip that holds the door latch rod in place may not fit through the slot in the door which means i may have to to remove the clip...... that will really suck because getting the clip back on may be impossible. How the heck did they assemble the door?
If I have to remove the plastic rod retainer, I may make the hole in the door bigger so I can install the retainer beforehand. If this is required the only thing I can think of is GM hired people with tiny hands to assemble the doors.
So I got the lock out tonight. Had to remove the plastic clip on the door handle pin. I am probably going to use my demel tool to cut some reliefs so I can install the housing with the plastic keeper, metal L bracket and wire pre-installed. Had to also remove the c-clip, and metal arm from rear of unit. Making progress. Now I just need to figure out how to disassemble the lock tumbler.
Got it apart, as thought looks like the lock spring retainer stakes failed. I can't believe GM thought these micro-stakes would be good enough... the car only has 25,000 miles on it. Page 0A-8 of the FSM shows a detail of this. I guess the next step is to attempt to re-stake the retainer.
Well I re-staked it. Doesn’t look pretty but I wanted to make sure this damn thing doesn’t pop up again. Not a lot of material there to work with. Should be good to go now. It all seems to work. Cleaned it out with Hudini lock cleaner/lubricant. Now getting all back together.
Well I re-staked it. Doesn’t look pretty but I wanted to make sure this damn thing doesn’t pop up again. Not a lot of material there to work with. Should be good to go now. It all seems to work. Cleaned it out with Hudini lock cleaner/lubricant. Not getting all back together.
Stop by a dealer or a lock shop and get new retainer. Springs maybe but for sure retainer. The replacement is much better for 'retention'!
*** Maybe carry handle and cylinder with you. DO NOT LOSE THE 'wavy' cylinder retainer. That is likely serviced in only a lock cylinder kit. I don't believe I've seen a lock shop that has it! If you go to a 'lock shop' that would be a good question to ask!!
ANYONE DOING AN ALL OVER REFINISH SHOULD CONSIDER HAVING THE CYLINDER REDONE WITH NEW RETAINER WHILE CAR IS APART!!
I have seen the wavy retainer in a couple of kits. Mine is in good shape. Popped it out with a pick. Decided to reuse. I think Ecklers may sell the kit but my experience is if you can reuse the OEM part use it….. chances are the aftermarket stuff is all from China.
I have seen the wavy retainer in a couple of kits. Mine is in good shape. Popped it out with a pick. Decided to reuse. I think Ecklers may sell the kit but my experience is if you can reuse the OEM part use it….. chances are the aftermarket stuff is all from China.
I don't know about the 'wavy' being an easy find!! I didn't mention replacing it - just don't misplace!
The 'retainer' I meant was a 'to do' is the 'staked tumbler retainer' There ain't no Chinesium yet for the older B & S/Strattec cylinder hardware!
OK, that retainer looked perfect plus it is already re-staked. Probably should have had a lock smith restake as my work is not the pretty but seems to have done the job. The car only has 25,000 miles on it so it is not like this stuff should be worn out.
Update: Got the handle back in the door. Wasn’t as hard is I thought but it was still a PITA. All I have left is the door panel. Getting the assembly back in the door was easy but getting rods re-attached was a bit challenging but not too bad. Recommend some long reach needle nose pliers and flexible magnets for fishing out the nuts when you drop them into the door.
Another Update: Well..... should have known I would end up doing everything twice.... the C4 strikes again. So I guess when I put the lock mechanism back together I must have clocked something wrong. The courtesy light stays on all the time now. The only way it works normally is if the key is turned to the right (Unlock position). I really don't know where I went wrong. The metal lock bracket and plastic switch housing can really only go on one way.....or so I thought. The lock seems to work fine. This is the drivers side so turn to left to lock and right to unlock. The key enters the lock teeth side pointing down.
I obviously messed up somewhere along the line. If I cant find some info in the FSM I may post the question in a new thread. I am sure no one is following this one anymore.
I agree with you that you must have clocked the lock switch incorrectly. Bummer...but you'll be able to do the job in 1/4 the time now.
but I don’t know how. Everything is in the correct orientation. I also discovered if i turn the door key to just barely past the 12 o’clock position, it works fine just can’t get key out of door. I think there is something wrong with plastic switch on key assembly. I have read other posts where people have had similar issues.
probably just going to disconnect the switch at the connector and put. Jumper in and see if it works ok. I don’t want to take it all apart again unless I know for certain what the problem is. I mean it really can only all go back together 1 way.
I've done I believe 3 doors with no issues. If you're going back in I might carry the cylinder to a lock shop and get a new tumbler spring retainer added. I don't believe you can error orientation of the cylinder in the case. I believe you could confirm operation before putting handle back into the door. Best I recall the switch and wire will allow that.
10-17-2021, 11:00 PM
