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So I had some time to kill today. I have been wanting to make a video for a while about some of the things I learned about LS swapping these cars. So this video is my opinion and things I've learned. YMMV. This isn't a video about how to LS swap a C4. More about tips and tricks. Also some things I would have done differently if I had to do it over again. And some things I learned that made the swap financially possible on a budget. Sorry it's so long. I hope this helps someone who is debating how to approach an LS swap.
Hey Phobos, curious on what ls efi controller did you go with? I switch mine from fast efi to the FI tech as I'm planning on running boost. My kid built a L33 5.3/flat top with a set of home ported 799 heads, mild cam sloppy stage 2. The engine runs pretty decent, just have to find time to get the project finished.
Hey Phobos, curious on what ls efi controller did you go with? I switch mine from fast efi to the FI tech as I'm planning on running boost. My kid built a L33 5.3/flat top with a set of home ported 799 heads, mild cam sloppy stage 2. The engine runs pretty decent, just have to find time to get the project finished.
Thanks for sharing your build.
I'm using a Holley Terminator X Max. I'm a big advocate for the Holley ECU's because of the self tune capability. I really had my doubts at first. But after my cam swap there was no need for dyno tuning at all. It runs great after letting the ECU stay in 50% learn mode for a summer.
Thanks for the update. I want to use the holley ecu for my next hemi project that I want to put into my pick-up. Both of my ecu worked good, but I wanted to run boost and FI was the cheapest route, plus it was on the shelf at my local hot rod shop.
Nice video. Answered several of my questions and helps me visualize several things. I'm wanting to do a swap in my 94 which sounds like I could get away going super cheap and stage it. I already have the electronic 4L60 which isn't the best but I could swap in and run it til it blows then put in a 4L80. And do the same for the Dana 36 in my car. I wish I could get any LS for $200 here in Colorado. Even the U Pull and Pay franchise here in Colorado is more then that (just base engine and heads is $290 + tax and they hit you for every little thing you leave on the engine like intake and injectors will add $40 and the 8 injectors will be another $56) and I think the employees pull all of the decent LS engines and sell them on Ebay before they ever hit the lot. Most of the stuff that still has an LS in it are super clapped out and you have to dig under 4 inches of grease to even see if it's an LS then you find out that it has 300K on it already. So much for a cheap swap with one of those engines. Maybe I need to take a road trip to PA
Nice video. Answered several of my questions and helps me visualize several things. I'm wanting to do a swap in my 94 which sounds like I could get away going super cheap and stage it. I already have the electronic 4L60 which isn't the best but I could swap in and run it til it blows then put in a 4L80. And do the same for the Dana 36 in my car. I wish I could get any LS for $200 here in Colorado. Even the U Pull and Pay franchise here in Colorado is more then that (just base engine and heads is $290 + tax and they hit you for every little thing you leave on the engine like intake and injectors will add $40 and the 8 injectors will be another $56) and I think the employees pull all of the decent LS engines and sell them on Ebay before they ever hit the lot. Most of the stuff that still has an LS in it are super clapped out and you have to dig under 4 inches of grease to even see if it's an LS then you find out that it has 300K on it already. So much for a cheap swap with one of those engines. Maybe I need to take a road trip to PA
Wait until Christmas. I was told by the manager at the Pittsburgh store that every U Pull N Pay has the same Christmas sales events. Last year they did the "Santa's Sleigh Pull a thon". This is everything you can drag in a truck bed liner 20 feet for $80. I hit the weight machine hard getting ready for it. But this is a great way to get a motor with whatever parts you need with it. Remember with an LS motor there's a saying. "If it spins it wins". Don't worry so much about mileage for a motor in a fun project car. Even that 250K motor will make 400 hp with a cam and springs. The big thing is finding one that is all intact and not missing heads or the intake. This just tells you there shouldn't be water in it.
Nice video. Answered several of my questions and helps me visualize several things. I'm wanting to do a swap in my 94 which sounds like I could get away going super cheap and stage it. I already have the electronic 4L60 which isn't the best but I could swap in and run it til it blows then put in a 4L80. And do the same for the Dana 36 in my car. I wish I could get any LS for $200 here in Colorado. Even the U Pull and Pay franchise here in Colorado is more then that (just base engine and heads is $290 + tax and they hit you for every little thing you leave on the engine like intake and injectors will add $40 and the 8 injectors will be another $56) and I think the employees pull all of the decent LS engines and sell them on Ebay before they ever hit the lot. Most of the stuff that still has an LS in it are super clapped out and you have to dig under 4 inches of grease to even see if it's an LS then you find out that it has 300K on it already. So much for a cheap swap with one of those engines. Maybe I need to take a road trip to PA
I just took a look at the U Pull & Pay in Aurora Colorado. I'm not sure if that's the one near you or not. You weren't kidding. Their Facebook page doesn't have a single sale on it. That and you guys have to pay an "environmental fee" on engines? What the heck is that?
This Saturday the one in Pittsburgh is having a sale that's whatever you can pick up and carry 20 feet for $50. I don't really need anything. But I'm going just to watch people get crushed.
I don't agree on the digital cluster. I don't see any reason to remove it unless you want to. It uses its own sensors. You need a tach signal and a speedo signal. The aftermarket ECU should be able to provide both. The only functionalities you loose are MPG data and fuel range that is calculated from MPG data.
I don't agree on the digital cluster. I don't see any reason to remove it unless you want to. It uses its own sensors. You need a tach signal and a speedo signal. The aftermarket ECU should be able to provide both. The only functionalities you loose are MPG data and fuel range that is calculated from MPG data.
The speedo signal is a little tricky. The output from the Holley ECU's (other than the Dominator) is a square wave PWM-. Being that it pulses the ground instead of a positive signal the factory speedo won't work. That's according to Holley anyway. You might be able to adapt the signal with a transistor circuit as a boost. Or you could use a GPS sender to the factory speedo.
I'm not saying that using the factory cluster is impossible. It just makes things harder.
The speedo signal is a little tricky. The output from the Holley ECU's (other than the Dominator) is a square wave PWM-. Being that it pulses the ground instead of a positive signal the factory speedo won't work. That's according to Holley anyway. You might be able to adapt the signal with a transistor circuit as a boost. Or you could use a GPS sender to the factory speedo.
I'm not saying that using the factory cluster is impossible. It just makes things harder.
I use a MaxxECU and I made a custom "speed" to PWM frequency table to calibrate the speedo and it works just fine. I don't remember if I had to adapt the signal. The stock sensor creates a sine wave with both positive and negative polarity. I might have used a pull up resistor to get a square wave and a capacitor in series to move the square wave symetrically around groud. It was not a big issue anyway.
In case anyone is interested and you live anywhere near Pittsburgh, PA. The salvage yard I mention in the video is having a sale this Saturday (10/30). On their Facebook page it simply said "Anything you can carry for $50". But then they released a video with the rules for the sale. They are adding to it "anything you can drag 20 feet for $200". This includes truck bed liners and anything in them. So as long as your not a morbidly obese smoker you could get an LS motor of your choice with a transmission and all the accessories and harness/PCM for $200+tax. The only issue is there is no warranty when you get a motor on a sale like this. Check out their video. I'll be there at 8:30 am on Saturday. I would be willing to help a forum member pull a motor if you help me.
Wish I could be there. Hey next time you are bored I would love to see a run and drive video. Talk a little about how it handles with double the HP then the 84 had stock. You moved quite a bit of weight around with the new drive train are there any suspension upgrades you feel are needed now after the changes? I autoX mine pretty hard so keeping my handling as good as it can be is an important consideration before I make any major changes.
Wish I could be there. Hey next time you are bored I would love to see a run and drive video. Talk a little about how it handles with double the HP then the 84 had stock. You moved quite a bit of weight around with the new drive train are there any suspension upgrades you feel are needed now after the changes? I autoX mine pretty hard so keeping my handling as good as it can be is an important consideration before I make any major changes.
If there would be a day that isn't raining before winter (doubtful) I might do that. I guess I never really thought about it but I did move a lot of weight around. I don't auto-x so it isn't a big deal to me. With the combo that's in the car now I would have taken a bunch of weight off the front of the car and added it to the middle with the bigger transmission. Also removing the AC and the spare tire helped too.
The car is a Z51 car. I have new Bilstein shocks and a thicker sway bar in the back. I lowered the rear a little with longer bolts. Then I used QA1 coil overs in the front with 550 lbs springs. I have the QA1 shocks set to the middle position. I also have poly bushing all the way around. The handling is close to stock. I need to play with the settings on the QA1's. I just never messed with it. But being I'm just doing burnouts and smoking unsuspecting Mustangs light to light, fine tuning the suspension just hasn't been a priority yet.
My 500hp 6.0L 2900lb '84 is flat out scary. I learned real quick not to mess around under full throttle unless I was familiar with the road. My 84's suspension is so stiff that the car will jump off the road when it hits dips, bumps, ruts, whoopity doos...etc, especially when under throttle or around turns. It would probably be excellent at a twisty track but for my 84 on the public roads you have to be really careful when you use the happy pedal.
Another danger to look out for is the sleeper effect. No one expects an old krusty 84 Corvette to have 500hp. Gotta keep an eye out for the no look lane change from the driver of the slower car that thinks he is faster.