EGR Code 32
My 1990 Corvette with an L98 engine continues to display a SES code 32 after a few minutes of highway driving. The engine runs normally and the gas mileage is what it always has been.
I have been through this system following both the Factory Service Manual and an article from Corvette Central. the EGR works properly, the EGR solenoid works properly, I swapped the ECM since I had one, nothing seems to help clear this code and stop it from recurring.
Any suggestions are welcome. Remember it is a 90, that system is different from earlier years.
Regards,
B
But your car doesn't have that sensor, it relies on a different method of checking the EGR system operation via the O2 sensor - checking to see if it leans out correctly when EGR is operating. There are a few possibilities (since you've swapped the ECM and it still occurs) - 1/ the EGR valve operation is either intermittent or there is buildup of carbon near the seat which is affecting the EGR flow or pintle movement, 2/ the EGR solenoid is iffy and intermittent, 3/ vacuum line leak to control the vacuum to the EGR valve, 4/ intermittent wiring or connector problem to the EGR solenoid, or 5/ the O2 sensor is giving the ECM a reading it doesn't like when the system is measuring the effects of the EGR test routine.
I'd start with the easier stuff first, checking all the vacuum lines for integrity (especially near that friggin' stupid connector / Y joint near the solenoid itself). Those crack all the time. Then I'd recommend a close look at the wiring and solenoid area - reseat connector, check for shorts, etc...
See what you get, decent starting point...
Last edited by ajp01; Oct 28, 2021 at 01:04 PM. Reason: spelling fix





Haven't really felt like messing with it, but those guys pretty much covered it with what they said.
The only item I should have stopped and figured out was when the Insulation on the EGR Feed tube slowly burned off. When an L98 starts pinging I make sure the EGR is working properly as it is can cause detonation.
I like to test it with the engine idling, I put a Hand-Vacuum style pump on the line going to the EGR and when I pull a vacuum the EGR will move up or down and the idle will change.
My other favorite is to check your knock control system, while the engine is running simply "Tap" the cylinder head or something near the engine block with a metal wrench. The idle should drop as it retards the timing showing that it is working properly.













