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I’m trying to glue this on top of the pedal.
Here is a picture.
Hopefully it will make throttle blips while braking easier. I’ve used a gray seam sealer. it sticks well to aluminum, not sure for plastic though
I’ve glued it on top of the stock pedal. Haven’t driven it yet because I’m working on the seat for some leather repairs, but I checked it and I can’t reach it with the heel. Pressing it with the ball of the foot may work, however, another problem I’ve noticed is the pedal mount is made of plastic and I’ve seen a guy than broke that mount. Now my pedal is offset to the left so it will create a greater stress on the mount if I don’t apply force aligned to the pedal arm
I’ll try to find a 3d model of a reinforced mount then build one from aluminium, alternatively a 3d print could be just fine if it is a stronger design.
I’ve glued it on top of the stock pedal. Haven’t driven it yet because I’m working on the seat for some leather repairs, but I checked it and I can’t reach it with the heel. Pressing it with the ball of the foot may work, however, another problem I’ve noticed is the pedal mount is made of plastic and I’ve seen a guy than broke that mount. Now my pedal is offset to the left so it will create a greater stress on the mount if I don’t apply force aligned to the pedal arm
I’ll try to find a 3d model of a reinforced mount then build one from aluminium, alternatively a 3d print could be just fine if it is a stronger design.
I built mine out of 3/16 plate. Worked well enough so far.
I built mine out of 3/16 plate. Worked well enough so far.
when you have time can you post a picture with yours?
update: I’ve driven the car and the gas and brake pedals are close together, there is like 1” gap between them but if I’m not careful my foot can press the throttle and brake at the same time. Anyway it didn’t bother me and I can blip easily with the right side of the foot. Also I did that while wearing hiking boots, special shoes should work well.
when you have time can you post a picture with yours?
update: I’ve driven the car and the gas and brake pedals are close together, there is like 1” gap between them but if I’m not careful my foot can press the throttle and brake at the same time. Anyway it didn’t bother me and I can blip easily with the right side of the foot. Also I did that while wearing hiking boots, special shoes should work well.
thanks, your plate doesn’t seem to have the three legs at the bottom, I guess they are not absolutely necessary
I ran it without for a bit, but I eventually took some bushings and cut to height and installed them. All it did was move it out a bit and keep the sound deadening from being crushed. I'd probably use washers this time around to space it out. But definitely in my opinion use something.
I will also add that I can't heel toe or side foot. A prior injury makes it very difficult to move my ankle in those directions or twisting so I can't help on if it helped with that or not.
I will also add that I can't heel toe or side foot. A prior injury makes it very difficult to move my ankle in those directions or twisting so I can't help on if it helped with that or not.
I think that would require some modifications to the car: either an automatic throttle blip or a clutch actuator with a control button on the shifter. The first is easier to design: take the inputs from brake and clutch- the switches and use a small actuator to pull the throttle cable briefly after a detection of both brake-clutch. you need data from rpm and speed for a better operation. The clutch switch must operate when the clutch is disengaged.
Second is harder and more expensive to implement plus it would require to change the look of the shift **** (clutch button) but you would be more involved in driving the car.
in both cases the brake modulation will be easier because it won’t interfere with the throttle.
I think that would require some modifications to the car: either an automatic throttle blip or a clutch actuator with a control button on the shifter. The first is easier to design: take the inputs from brake and clutch- the switches and use a small actuator to pull the throttle cable briefly after a detection of both brake-clutch. you need data from rpm and speed for a better operation. The clutch switch must operate when the clutch is disengaged.
Second is harder and more expensive to implement plus it would require to change the look of the shift **** (clutch button) but you would be more involved in driving the car.
in both cases the brake modulation will be easier because it won’t interfere with the throttle.
I don't beat on it to matter or care enough but if I did, I would use a later 4+3 shifter with the button on the top to blip the IAC or cruise should I ever do it. But there is room to physically mount the pedal higher in making the custom plate, the angle at rest just slightly changes. If that helps you.
the pedals are a bit too close, I can blip the throttle easily now but when I brake I have to be careful not to hit the accelerator, this will get worse probably with more wear on the brake pads . Anyway, afaik many race cars have the pedals very close and they can be driven.
throttle pedal
