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It depends entirely what your goals are, as to whether a stroker would suit you. Most people seem to want something with lowend power so it feels fast. For a play car, you aren't racing for $ in all likelyhood.. so that can be alot of fun. If you want to go fast, you need to turn it IMO.
Spin it, gear it, and make it hook up. Simple :steering:
Will give you lots of bottom end power. Doesn't take away from upper rpm power it's just that if you go with a normal cast or forged crank they are a lot heavier and kill rpm potential. A super light crank will solve this if you feel like spending $2000 on one.
Volumetric Efficiencyis directly related to piston speed. So yes, with the same setup, you will lose topend power... and mid-topend power is what wins races. Again though, if you're just rolling around and playing... I don't think it matters that much.
I did not know that. Sorry. I do know that even if it kills top end you can still build a 383 with a lot of top end. Take a 400 block and de-stroke it with a 350 crank and punch it .030 over. With a good cam and port work you will get good torque and be able to run to 7500rpm easy.
Well it wouldn't be as big a deal if people didn't undercam/head their stuff so severely alot of times.
There you go, big bore, short stroke.. the way to NA happiness :D. I'd personally never run more than a 383... and definitely not some of the big inch strokers people put together with godawful bore/stroke ratios. Same reason a 396BBC will stomp a 396sbc.. where it makes the cylinder pressure :). Of course, everyone's obsessed with inches.. and they're great, but IMHO not so hot when you begin to build something akin to a large 305. Never the less, that's generalizing what most people do. Properly built, it's not like it'll be slow by any stretch of the imagination :)
If you're talking strictly about straight line racing, I agree. Spin it! I guess that's one of the reasons the 1/4 mile guys like the 377. I need to have a broad power band. A big bad flat torque curve is what helps get off corners quickly and beats the other guy point to point. (presuming you drive it!) My SR 383 has yet to be dynoed, but all the sims show big TQ and power to 6400+. Haven't spun it over that yet, but it sure didn't lay down AT ALL. Should be enough to get me into trouble this coming season. :D
99% of what we do is for road race applications & it's still all big bore, short stroke, and spin it. Straight, curved, whereever you're accelerating, but obviously.. things change when it's more street than race, or even 50/50 IMO.
Either way you go, it's all about the entire package obviously :).
quote(It depends entirely what your goals are, as to whether a stroker would suit you. Most people seem to want something with lowend power so it feels fast. For a play car, you aren't racing for $ in all likelyhood.. so that can be alot of fun. If you want to go fast, you need to turn it IMO.) so skarodom my car just feels fast but realy isnt that fast is that what i am reading from your above statsmants and i should turn it to 7500 rpm because where i shift at a measly 5400 rpm there is no power down there ohhh okay now i under stand there i thought i knew what i was doing all these years now i finally see the light :crazy: :cheers:
quote(It depends entirely what your goals are, as to whether a stroker would suit you. Most people seem to want something with lowend power so it feels fast. For a play car, you aren't racing for $ in all likelyhood.. so that can be alot of fun. If you want to go fast, you need to turn it IMO.) so skarodom my car just feels fast but realy isnt that fast is that what i am reading from your above statsmants and i should turn it to 7500 rpm because where i shift at a measly 5400 rpm there is no power down there ohhh okay now i under stand there i thought i knew what i was doing all these years now i finally see the light :crazy: :cheers:
So I guess my question is, When I rebuild should I stick with the 350, and just make her breath like a *****?
I think that would be more cost effective.
I also see that you are running shorties. My tuner said these were the the best way to go unless you are looking to go into the 500 and up HP ranges.
If your planning a rebuild .30 over 355ci for a few hundred dollars more you can drop in a cast 3.75 crank and make it a 383ci. The additional stroke will provide more torque and the engine will tolerate more cam.
Long tube headers will provide more hp and tq over shorties regardless of total output. They will benefit larger and/or higher spinning motors and the gains will be more noticeable.
Well it wouldn't be as big a deal if people didn't undercam/head their stuff so severely alot of times.
There you go, big bore, short stroke.. the way to NA happiness :D. I'd personally never run more than a 383... and definitely not some of the big inch strokers people put together with godawful bore/stroke ratios. Same reason a 396BBC will stomp a 396sbc.. where it makes the cylinder pressure :). Of course, everyone's obsessed with inches.. and they're great, but IMHO not so hot when you begin to build something akin to a large 305. Never the less, that's generalizing what most people do. Properly built, it's not like it'll be slow by any stretch of the imagination :)
I know people hate to hear that :boxing.
Does anyone use the 400 block destroked to 377 for an LT1 or LT4 buildup. That would make an awesome stock looking motor, but are the block to head differences too much of an issue? I love to spin my engines, and a stock looking LT1 that revs to 7500 or 8 grand would be something else.
so skarodom my car just feels fast but realy isnt that fast is that what i am reading from your above statsmants and i should turn it to 7500 rpm because where i shift at a measly 5400 rpm there is no power down there ohhh okay now i under stand there i thought i knew what i was doing all these years now i finally see the light :crazy: :cheers:
Cork that is what I have been trying to tell you all along....one of these days you will see the light :D :lol: :jester