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I think. I'm not sure, but I have a little bang when I accelerate hard.
I had trans work done last year some time. Maybe a year and a half ago. Something like that.
I don't think he applied adhesive to the beam upon reinstallation. And I'm hoping the beam bolts have just loosened a bit and may be the source of the knock. It only happens one time on a hard acceleration.
Anyway, I'm gonna check that beam first but not sure about torque. Can somebody double check me on it, please?
From the diagram it looks like 37 lbs. ft. on 7 on all four bolts. Or is it 37 lbs. ft. on the front two bolts and 59 lbs. ft. on the two rear bolts?
I don't have those aftermarket plates. I might pick them up at some point but I just wanna check the torque on those bolts for now.
With the specs. Your showing simply testing with a wrench would be possible if it moves it's loose which means to do the spec. Torque or bump it up a bit
. I wouldnt get to lost worring about getting that perfect torque it is a Robust area
With the specs. Your showing simply testing with a wrench would be possible if it moves it's loose which means to do the spec. Torque or bump it up a bit
. I wouldnt get to lost worring about getting that perfect torque it is a Robust area
Yeah, I just wanna get it as close as I can, honestly. Without new adhesive it'll likely loosen again over time anyway.
Engine mounts and u-joints are a good place to look too. Any input shaft or tailshaft issues with the trans? Converter bolts tight?
I had a bang like you describe when I first bought my LS swap 84 with 5 speed TKO 600. I tightened everything up, motor mounts, c-beam, rear suspension bolts etc. Changed all the u-joints, put in new clutch and it was still there. I then had my transmission faceplated/rebuilt and Liberty's had to replace the input shaft as it was severly worn at the pilot bearing surface. I asked Liberty's if that would cause the clunk and they said absolutely. Installed the rebuilt trans and the clunk was gone.
Engine mounts and u-joints are a good place to look too. Any input shaft or tailshaft issues with the trans? Converter bolts tight?
I had a bang like you describe when I first bought my LS swap 84 with 5 speed TKO 600. I tightened everything up, motor mounts, c-beam, rear suspension bolts etc. Changed all the u-joints, put in new clutch and it was still there. I then had my transmission faceplated/rebuilt and Liberty's had to replace the input shaft as it was severly worn at the pilot bearing surface. I asked Liberty's if that would cause the clunk and they said absolutely. Installed the rebuilt trans and the clunk was gone.
Glad it wasn't any of the latter things you mentioned.
Probaby should still give the motor mounts a look, though.
The nuts are locking nuts, so they wont just loosen up on their own, unless someone replaced them with non locking types.
And for the adhesive, as far as i remember it is so the parts dont corrode together due to dissimilar metals and water. Could be wrong, but i believe thats its main purpose.
So you tightened them and went for a test drive and no clunk? Sweet.
That seems to be the case. I'll see over time, as weather permits getting it out. It doesn't really do it all the time. Depends on how hard I accelerate.
No gonna count my chickens just yet.
They weren't loose in the sense that they were sloppy. They were loose in the sense that they could allow a shift in the drive train balance. They were only tight...ish.
The nuts are locking nuts, so they wont just loosen up on their own, unless someone replaced them with non locking types.
And for the adhesive, as far as i remember it is so the parts dont corrode together due to dissimilar metals and water. Could be wrong, but i believe thats its main purpose.
Honestly, I can't think of one instance where I've had someone else do a job and I haven't had to come behind them and tighten things down. It's only been a few times I've had to have someone else do a job on the car. But every single time I've had to come behind them.
Now that I seem to have my health back, I don't foresee having to put it in a shop for anything, knock on wood.
The nuts are 'prevailing torque' so maybe new nuts?
Be aware the holes in the beam can get elongated ( esp stick cars ) allowing some movement even when the bolts are tight.
The beam plates as well as being very convenient , spread the clamping force over a much wider area instead of just under the bolt head.
I think my c-beam needs retorqued
