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Grinding noise in my dash

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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 12:55 PM
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Default Grinding noise in my dash

Since my heat stopped working right after it started grinding, I'm just gonna go out on a limb and assume it's the blend door actuator. Probably a cracked vinyl gear. I checked the codes on the climate control and came back 01.

And it's a '90. So gonna be painfully annoying having to deal with it, being on top of the heater box.

It figures it'd be something like that.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why they'd bury a part like that in such an inconvenient place. Why do they do that? It's just dumb...
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 02:36 PM
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I totally sympathize your situation. My daughter has a 2011 Camaro and her Heater Core started leaking at 38,000 miles. The dealer had the windshield removed to get "access" to the heater core, an additional several Hundred dollars just to get access?

My 1988 C4 coupe's dash is still apart and I think it might make sense to remove the rest of the parts and perform a "preventative" installation of a new Heater Core. Mine holds pressure so I am really not sure why I would want to replace it. I would hate to have to remove and re-install the whole dash a second time for something avoidable.

GM likes doing that don't they? I love the looks of the new C8's but what does it cost to replace the spark plugs on the Corvette? Does it look like it was made to be "maintained"? My Brother owned a Porsche Boxster S Model and I loved driving it. Take it in for an oil change, $500, change the plugs, $500; It cost minimum of $500 to do anything and NOT a Car I could afford.

I was surprised that VW wants to pre-sell you "all the maintenance" up to 125,000 miles at the purchase time.

Well Natty_C I hope that you and your family have a very Merry Christmas! Don't let the Corvette issue have any affect on your Holidays!
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I totally sympathize your situation. My daughter has a 2011 Camaro and her Heater Core started leaking at 38,000 miles. The dealer had the windshield removed to get "access" to the heater core, an additional several Hundred dollars just to get access?

My 1988 C4 coupe's dash is still apart and I think it might make sense to remove the rest of the parts and perform a "preventative" installation of a new Heater Core. Mine holds pressure so I am really not sure why I would want to replace it. I would hate to have to remove and re-install the whole dash a second time for something avoidable.

GM likes doing that don't they? I love the looks of the new C8's but what does it cost to replace the spark plugs on the Corvette? Does it look like it was made to be "maintained"? My Brother owned a Porsche Boxster S Model and I loved driving it. Take it in for an oil change, $500, change the plugs, $500; It cost minimum of $500 to do anything and NOT a Car I could afford.

I was surprised that VW wants to pre-sell you "all the maintenance" up to 125,000 miles at the purchase time.

Well Natty_C I hope that you and your family have a very Merry Christmas! Don't let the Corvette issue have any affect on your Holidays!
Yeah, I was thinking may as well just replace the core while I'm in there. Valid point.

I'm not messing with it any time soon, though.

Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you, too.
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I totally sympathize your situation. My daughter has a 2011 Camaro and her Heater Core started leaking at 38,000 miles. The dealer had the windshield removed to get "access" to the heater core, an additional several Hundred dollars just to get access?

My 1988 C4 coupe's dash is still apart and I think it might make sense to remove the rest of the parts and perform a "preventative" installation of a new Heater Core. Mine holds pressure so I am really not sure why I would want to replace it. I would hate to have to remove and re-install the whole dash a second time for something avoidable.

GM likes doing that don't they? I love the looks of the new C8's but what does it cost to replace the spark plugs on the Corvette? Does it look like it was made to be "maintained"? My Brother owned a Porsche Boxster S Model and I loved driving it. Take it in for an oil change, $500, change the plugs, $500; It cost minimum of $500 to do anything and NOT a Car I could afford.

I was surprised that VW wants to pre-sell you "all the maintenance" up to 125,000 miles at the purchase time.

Well Natty_C I hope that you and your family have a very Merry Christmas! Don't let the Corvette issue have any affect on your Holidays!
I had to replace a leaking heater core on my 85 (replaced in Oct 2018 with only 68,000 miles). Made a mess on my interior that I was fortunate to get cleaned up. Least fun auto repair I have ever done. I would recommend replacing your heater core if you are that close to it already.
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Natty C
Since my heat stopped working right after it started grinding, I'm just gonna go out on a limb and assume it's the blend door actuator. Probably a cracked vinyl gear. I checked the codes on the climate control and came back 01.

And it's a '90. So gonna be painfully annoying having to deal with it, being on top of the heater box.

It figures it'd be something like that.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why they'd bury a part like that in such an inconvenient place. Why do they do that? It's just dumb...
the blend door actuator isn’t too bad. It’s a pain but pulling the heater core past the vast amount of wiring while upside down is about double the BS.

Check the blower fan first. The blend door shouldn’t grind. It either works or it doesn’t. I thought mine was bad but it was still good. Still replaced it since I was already in there.

if I remember right you can get the blend door actuator off without pulling the box. U just won’t be able to get the rear screw in, but that was fine because the front 2 holds it in place. I pulled the dash pad off, then cut away the dash support that runs across the glovebox area. It’s not structural(even if it is, it’s plastic, and the C4 is a death trap anyways lol), plus it makes it easy to do anymore dash work in the future.
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Avacado11
the blend door actuator isn’t too bad. It’s a pain but pulling the heater core past the vast amount of wiring while upside down is about double the BS.

Check the blower fan first. The blend door shouldn’t grind. It either works or it doesn’t. I thought mine was bad but it was still good. Still replaced it since I was already in there.

if I remember right you can get the blend door actuator off without pulling the box. U just won’t be able to get the rear screw in, but that was fine because the front 2 holds it in place. I pulled the dash pad off, then cut away the dash support that runs across the glovebox area. It’s not structural(even if it is, it’s plastic, and the C4 is a death trap anyways lol), plus it makes it easy to do anymore dash work in the future.
Actually I guess it just sounds more like a motor running inside the dash. Like rur rur rur rur rur....rur rur...rur...rur rur rur...for like thirty seconds or so. Then stops. So I guess grinding was the wrong word. But I know it's the actuator motor because the sound is right there where it is.

It's been making that sound on and off for some months, just sporadically, and the heat was working fine up until a couple days ago. Now it just blows cold air. All of the vents change just fine though. Now getting the motor noise running whenever I turn the key.

Ironic that you mentioned about pulling the pad and cutting there. I had thought about that but decided on not.



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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985 Vette
I had to replace a leaking heater core on my 85 (replaced in Oct 2018 with only 68,000 miles). Made a mess on my interior that I was fortunate to get cleaned up. Least fun auto repair I have ever done. I would recommend replacing your heater core if you are that close to it already.
Yeah, definitely gonna do that while I'm in there. Good advice for sure, in case anyone else stumbles over this down the road.
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 11:36 PM
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The other thing is I guess there's an off the wall chance the programmer has some solder problems. But I dunno.
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 10:01 AM
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When I bought the repair/upgrade parts from Bryan at Batee.com he sent several parts to be replaced in the programmer that is in a separate location away from the C68. I recall there were a few parts that were supposed to be replaced in the programmer or air mixer but since I have a BAD Back I chose to wait to replace them IF and WHEN they finally need it. You could throw the situation by him and get his opinion as he KNOWS what he is talking about!

I was surprised to find that the solder joints were pretty good on my parts. Most of my dashboard and C68 issues were with intermittent Connections and they were easy to resolve. I am just So Glad and appreciative that we have someone like Batee.com to help us out when we need it!
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 10:59 AM
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Apparently, you can drill a hole in the cowl to get to that back screw. Then just plug it afterward. That's according to Jerry Watts, decades ago.

It's a 20 year old tutorial, but given the source, there's no question it's accurate information.

I'm tempted...


Flat Pack Motor

Right side cowl area below windshield.

Remove right wiper arm and screen.

10" to the left of center wipe tram.

2 1/2" from inside cowl (back from front)

Should be back in under w/s slightly





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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 01:55 PM
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So I'm also trying to remove my blend door actuator, I watched a you tube video and the guy took out 2 bolts and it popped out. I thought " this looks easy", so I went in under the passenger side dash and found what looks to be the part, I removed the 2 bolts and it was still fastened tight, I assume there is a 3rd bolt somewhere. Any advice?
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Old Mar 10, 2022 | 05:30 PM
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Two white wires whenever you change it Mark them if you swept them your car while I only run for 5 seconds then quit it took me 5 days to find this on a car I did after I done the heater core in my 96 and yes I had professionals help to find it and this is because I did not market and my little brother was the one to plug them back in
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Old Mar 10, 2022 | 08:24 PM
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Default Heater

Ya know..
if no heat, go out under the hood, and on the rh side, you csn see the heater valve.
make sure it’s moving.
could be you just have a noisy blend foor and a rotted vacuum hose.
I would check the heater valve with a vacuum source .
if you don’t have a vacuum pump, get a 2 foot section of 3/32” vacuum hose, and disconnect your vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, and put the vacuum hose on the manifold, and the other end on the heater valve.
it should open
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Old Mar 11, 2022 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommygun69
Two white wires whenever you change it Mark them if you swept them your car while I only run for 5 seconds then quit it took me 5 days to find this on a car I did after I done the heater core in my 96 and yes I had professionals help to find it and this is because I did not market and my little brother was the one to plug them back in
Is it just me, or did anyone else find that excruciating to read??? Good grief....
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Old Mar 11, 2022 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommygun69
Two white wires whenever you change it Mark them if you swept them your car while I only run for 5 seconds then quit it took me 5 days to find this on a car I did after I done the heater core in my 96 and yes I had professionals help to find it and this is because I did not market and my little brother was the one to plug them back in

Originally Posted by Red86Z51
Is it just me, or did anyone else find that excruciating to read??? Good grief....
​​​​​​​My head is still spinning.
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Old Mar 11, 2022 | 09:45 PM
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Default Good Grief

That’s what happens when you talk into your phone instead of typing on it.
no punctuation and no chance of fixing it
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